Help me find a good & affordable generator transfer switch

Alright, Ike convinced me I really need to get a generator transfer switch. I remember seeing a video before, showing how to install one, and it looked fairly simple. I have ran circuits before, so I do understand the basics, and how dangerous this job could be. With that in mind, I am looking for a good deal on a good transfer switch.

I don't think I need more than 6 circuits (1 well pump, and several misc circuits with small loads). I see many online places sell kits, but I am not familiar with these sites, nor do I know what features to look out for. If anyone has any recommendations, please post them! Thanks!

Dan (electron) said:

Alright, Ike convinced me I really need to get a generator transfer switch. I remember seeing a video before, showing how to install one, and it looked fairly simple. I have ran circuits before, so I do understand the basics, and how dangerous this job could be. With that in mind, I am looking for a good deal on a good transfer switch.

I don't think I need more than 6 circuits (1 well pump, and several misc circuits with small loads). I see many online places sell kits, but I am not familiar with these sites, nor do I know what features to look out for. If anyone has any recommendations, please post them! Thanks!

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I got mine at Home Depot. Main features I needed were a 220V 30A circuit for the well pump and some 120 V 20A circuits for furnaces. I also wanted one with meters so I could see the load on each leg to verify that the load was balanced and not too high.

Dan (electron) said:

Alright, Ike convinced me I really need to get a generator transfer switch. I remember seeing a video before, showing how to install one, and it looked fairly simple. I have ran circuits before, so I do understand the basics, and how dangerous this job could be. With that in mind, I am looking for a good deal on a good transfer switch.

I don't think I need more than 6 circuits (1 well pump, and several misc circuits with small loads). I see many online places sell kits, but I am not familiar with these sites, nor do I know what features to look out for. If anyone has any recommendations, please post them! Thanks!

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One way I've seen it done (although I doubt it meets code, because it's not idiot proof) is two separate panels linked together. It's also not automatic but it is quick to switch. The first one is the main panel, the second one comes from the generator and is tied to the first one. To use it, shut off both main breakers and all the individual breakers then start the generator (if you don't shut off the main breaker on the main panel you can electrocute the lineman trying to restore your power). Now you turn on the breakers that you want power too, IE: turn on the breaker for the furnace, well pump and kitchen outlets and their corresponding breakers in the generator panel and finally the main breaker in the genarator panel.

The main advantage I see in this is the flexibility. The backup generator probably won't provide enough to run everything at once, so you can change it as your needs change. Run the AC for awhile, then turn that off and fill the water tank, etc. Again, this is just something that I've seen, I have real doubts if it is completely safe and I am the last person you want to take electrical advice from.

So why did I post the cobble it together method? I like the idea to change from one appliance/use to the next. In the summer-maybe AC, in the winter-the furnace. The kitchen receptacles are important for the refrigerator and maybe at nighttime put the bed/bath lights on but not the well pump. I also know that shutting off the main breaker is important for safety so no power leaves your house, maybe real transfer switches have an automatic way to do this.

upstatemike: Do you remember what panel you got? Did it come with good instructions? Did you install it yourself? Last but not least, how much did it cost you? Thanks!

judge_l: That really does sound nice, and I would go that route if it was code compliant. But if I would consider violating code, I think I would just backfeed it, like most people do (and just turn breakers on/off as needed). However, I really want to keep this code compliant, even if it will cost me much more (for safety and resale reasons).

The brand is EnerGen but I don't remember the price. I bought it a few years back after the Labor Day Storm. I'm pretty sure Home Depot still carries them so maybe on their web site?

Dan (electron) said:

upstatemike: Do you remember what panel you got? Did it come with good instructions? Did you install it yourself? Last but not least, how much did it cost you? Thanks!

judge_l: That really does sound nice, and I would go that route if it was code compliant. But if I would consider violating code, I think I would just backfeed it, like most people do (and just turn breakers on/off as needed). However, I really want to keep this code compliant, even if it will cost me much more (for safety and resale reasons).

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For manual switching, this IS to code, if there is a breaker lock bar attached. I don't remember where he got one, but a friend of mine used to make and sell compliant alternative power systems (for people out in the boonies). It's basically a BAR that hooks together two breakers.

You need to get a panel that supports this...99% residential do not (they have a door!!).

Basically the bar prevents BOTH breakers from being on at the same time.

The best way though, is to just get a system...unless you are doing something really advanced (solar / inverter / AND generator).

"The best way though, is to just get a system...unless you are doing something really advanced (solar / inverter / AND generator). "

I've looked into transfer switches for my generator, and it appears some sort of UL approved multi-pole double-throw switch is the inexpensive solution to avoid frying the lineman. Your comment about solar has me wondering how linemen are protected from solar installations where the systems are designed and intended to send power from the consumer back to the power company. Do solar installations monitor the line and disconnect if they don't see voltage on the mains?

I've got 400 amp service in my new home - two 200 amp panels. I have a 30kW generator with an automatic transfer switch powering one of the panels that powers the essentials that need to run should power fail when I'm not home: refrigeration, HA, HVAC, some lighting, alarm, etc. The other panel powers non-essentials: cooking, water heating, balance of lighting, pool heater, etc. In order to power both panels from the genset, I have to throw a manual breaker to connect the two panels and on the second panel, flip the lock-bar double-throw breaker mentioned earlier. The electrician originally wired both panels as manuals until I mentioned I had spec'd an ATS. This is the solution we arrived at. If you want, I can take pics tonight and send or post them.

Kevin

drozwood90 said:

For manual switching, this IS to code, if there is a breaker lock bar attached. I don't remember where he got one, but a friend of mine used to make and sell compliant alternative power systems (for people out in the boonies). It's basically a BAR that hooks together two breakers.

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Ya, that's what ours is.

Power comes out the main panel into the generator subpanel which has our well pump, septic holding tank pump, kitchen outlets, microwave, stove and another room's outlets on it. Then the outlet for plugging in the generator was wired to the outside of the house near the garage door so we don't have to run a 220V/30amp 'extension cord' through a basement window in the middle of winter. Just wheel the generator outside the garage door, fire it up, and plug into the outlet.

And ya, it has a locking bar so you have to trip the breakers feeding the subpanel from the main panel before you can engage the breakers to bring in generator power. All manually done, but that's fine for us. We'll just run whatever specifically we want at a time. Turn on the well pump a couple times a day to get water enough for drinking and flushing the toilets. It won't be fun, but it will certainly be surviving.

I'm not SURE, but I believe our gen subpanel is a briggs and stratton, but may have been marketed under another name. Our home contractor put it in, so I can't tell you the costs. I think total cost for us was around 1200.

For us, I think the clincher was that ice storm that hit the mid-west last year. That was right around the time we realized being as rural as we are, we could easily encounter the same scenario in central PA.

BSR,
I used to move my motorhome to the house when there was signs of an extended power outage. Extension cords to key lights and appliances from there.

This got to be a pain, so decided to put a transfer switch with a long extension cord (high amperage) to the motorhome. I purchased a Generac transfer switch. While I was planning the installation work, I got a Home Depot 10% discount coupon and a sale price on a 15kv Generac unit With transfer switch. I couldn't find any deal anywhere (online or other) that touched that price for similar air cooled / sized units.

So, ebay'd the original transfer switch and put the propane fueled 15kv Generac in. Has worked great ever since.

The Generac is also tied into my automation system so I know what state the switch is in. This helps with UPS control, PC graceful shutdowns (via MLWMI plugin), and other actions programmed into MainLobby Server.

The Generac transfer switch was a good choice.

DavidL,

(Apologize for the thread hijack).. I was curious what your experience with the Generac unit and UPS's has been. I'm interested in the new air-cooled 20kw Generac unit but have read horror stories about UPS's going haywire under generator power as they see it as unclean power.

Thanks and again apologize for the hijack...

bmil said:

DavidL,

(Apologize for the thread hijack).. I was curious what your experience with the Generac unit and UPS's has been. I'm interested in the new air-cooled 20kw Generac unit but have read horror stories about UPS's going haywire under generator power as they see it as unclean power.

Thanks and again apologize for the hijack...

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Hi bmil,
I wrote this up to answer that popular question:

http://www.cinemaronlineforums.com/wiki/in...me_Backup_Power

I didn't know Generac had a 20kw air cooled. When I bought mine, 15kv was the largest before they jumped into water cooled (and significantly more $).

I did have problems with the first unit I had. Ultimately it was replaced with another (after one repair attempt) and all has been good so far. A local Generac dealer did the repair and replacement and all was good.

Note that the advertised power is on Propane, and not natural gas. For example my 15kv (on propane) is 13kv on natural gas. There is a simple carburator setting to switch from one to the other.

I chose to nix the flashy meters and fancy black toggle switches for a sub panel that uses standard breakers.

The siemens G1224b10060GC has enough room to put 24 circuits on the generator. It normally acts as a 100AMP sub panel with an interlock for a 60 AMP generator feed. If you plan your loads you can have every circuit on and ready to provide power, depending on total usage. I chose to put the obvious (well, microwave, TV, heater, etc) on the panel but also included every room lighting circuit and certain outlet circuts with plenty room to spare.

The overall cost was about the same as a 10 to 12 circuit "fancy" panel. I also got the remote mount twistlock plug so that the generator can be located away from the panel in the quietest location from the house and bedroom.

I also liked the ability to get off the shelf replacement parts from the local stores if there was a problem (standard breakers).

I can move from room to room just like the electric is on. My neighbors hate me!

Edit: I almost forgot. If you have several spare spaces in your existing panel then this may be the better way to go.

http://interlockkit.com/

Simple. You just have to flip the main breaker first.

I chose the cheap manual transfer switch route. I'm a retired commercial electrician and I have my reasons for going the way I did. I used a panel similar to this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/SQUARE-D-QO-30-OR-50-A...id=p3286.c0.m14

My 200 amp main panel is in a finished wall in the attached garage. I simply cut an opening in the drywall in the bay to the left of the main panel. Used a hole saw to cut a 2" whole thru the stud next to the main panel and installed the new panel with a 2" sleeve between the two.

The generator panel has the typical twin (interlocked) main breakers. One is fed from the main panel and the other from your generator. To facilitate this I installed a 50 amp 4-pole receptacle in the wall below the generator panel. I then made a "patch cord" from 4/c #10 SO cord.

This is a foolproof install - there is no way to connect anything backwards or to send power out to the utility company. I have a Honda EU6500i alternator/generator. My wife can easily wheel it out from the garage, connect the cable, throw the ganged main breakers and have light in 2-3 minutes maximum.

Has anyone tried that interlockkit.com product? Looks extremely interesting!