Measuring pool piping water flow and/or pressure

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So today I got home, and noticed that due to a series of events, the skimmer door was blocked, making the pool pump suck mostly air all day. Since this isn't too healthy for the pump, I would like to detect these kind of problems with the Arduino controller I am building (designing it to monitor 3 pool temp probes). Question is, what is the most efficient way of doing this? Is there such thing as a simple analog pressure gauge? My filter pressure dropped big time whenever this happened, so I am hoping measuring flow or pressure would allow me to detect these kind of issues.

Since I am redoing all the plumbing, I have some wiggle room, so I am all ears.
 
I monitor my pool pump with my Brultech ECM-1240. While I havent tried triggering an alarm from the data, I doubt it would be very hard. The change in power consumption is pretty obvious when things arent right.
 
So today I got home, and noticed that due to a series of events, the skimmer door was blocked, making the pool pump suck mostly air all day. Since this isn't too healthy for the pump, I would like to detect these kind of problems with the Arduino controller I am building (designing it to monitor 3 pool temp probes). Question is, what is the most efficient way of doing this? Is there such thing as a simple analog pressure gauge? My filter pressure dropped big time whenever this happened, so I am hoping measuring flow or pressure would allow me to detect these kind of issues.

Since I am redoing all the plumbing, I have some wiggle room, so I am all ears.
There are certainly pressure and flow monitoring devices with analog outputs (most I've worked with are 4-20mA) but, they're often times just crazy expensive. A flow switch would be considerably cheaper. I know that there are flow switches that you could harvest from an old washing machines, too.
 
There are certainly pressure and flow monitoring devices with analog outputs (most I've worked with are 4-20mA) but, they're often times just crazy expensive. A flow switch would be considerably cheaper. I know that there are flow switches that you could harvest from an old washing machines, too.

I think an oil pressure sensor from just about any model car should work. I think they trip in the 5-10psi range.
 
So sounds like this isn't going to be an easy or cheap job. I guess I'll deal with this later ;)
 
I think an oil pressure sensor from just about any model car should work. I think they trip in the 5-10psi range.

Oil pressure sending units can be had for $15 with lots to choose from. Speaking on behalf of GM, they put out voltage from 0 to 5 in the range of 0 to 130 psi. I don't doubt that they would work, however, I do question whether they would not fail as a result of corrosion. Since they are designed to be immersed in oil, rust isn't a concern in the design. Maybe you want to play with it? When these fail, my experience they "peg", or, in other words, short out.

The suggestion about monitoring amps on the pump is a good one. If the line gets plugged up and the pump is working against higher pressure, the amp draw will go up. I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't a good correlation between psi and amps. You might even be able to convert that amps to psi. Certainly you could put a $7 standard psi guage on one of the pipes and then close down a valve and watch to see how close amp draw changes with psi.
 
Something like this should be all you need (there are cheaper sources & alternative models, maybe ask at yout local pool store).

http://www.aqua-man.com/row_num.asp?Ic=16643
Hayward part number HAXPSA1930 - Pressure Switch Assembly

These are used in heaters as a safety switch to make sure the heater won't kick in when there isn't water flowing. If the pump isn't pumping, then there is no pressure. I don't know why more pumps don't have these built in to the pump to prevent the pumps from running dry and wasting energy and/or ruining themselves.

You probably don't need an analog sensor, unless you want to monitor more than basic on/off. I have the heater safety switch wired to an Elk input via a relay, so the Elk can shut down the pool pump if there is a pressure problem after 2 minutes (usually enough time to re-prime itself). The Elk can also then announce when the heater turns off, indicating the hot tub is ready :)
 
Something like this should be all you need (there are cheaper sources & alternative models, maybe ask at yout local pool store).

http://www.aqua-man.com/row_num.asp?Ic=16643
Hayward part number HAXPSA1930 - Pressure Switch Assembly

These are used in heaters as a safety switch to make sure the heater won't kick in when there isn't water flowing. If the pump isn't pumping, then there is no pressure. I don't know why more pumps don't have these built in to the pump to prevent the pumps from running dry and wasting energy and/or ruining themselves.

You probably don't need an analog sensor, unless you want to monitor more than basic on/off. I have the heater safety switch wired to an Elk input via a relay, so the Elk can shut down the pool pump if there is a pressure problem after 2 minutes (usually enough time to re-prime itself). The Elk can also then announce when the heater turns off, indicating the hot tub is ready :)


I think this device would cover most situations. If you located it at a point in your plumbing where an obstruction after it was very very unlikely, you should be in business. If there were an obstruction after the switch, you would still have pressure in the line but would have no flow.
 
My suggestion is to wach eBay for one of these : http://cgi.ebay.com/Effector-PN7224-pressure-sensor-/260786812696?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb81af718

This one is way too expensive, I have picked them up for as little as $10 - $20 new. I use this on our shared water well and it works perfectly; on at 35 psi and off at 50 psi.

If you watch for one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/Moeller-EASY-512-DC-RC-Programmable-Mini-PLC-/220796176945?pt=BI_Control_Systems_PLCs&hash=item33687a4a31

You can often find a good used or new one for $40 - $50. The two pieces together can automate your pool operation and protect the pump at the same time.
 
Something like this should be all you need (there are cheaper sources & alternative models, maybe ask at yout local pool store).

http://www.aqua-man....um.asp?Ic=16643
Hayward part number HAXPSA1930 - Pressure Switch Assembly

These are used in heaters as a safety switch to make sure the heater won't kick in when there isn't water flowing. If the pump isn't pumping, then there is no pressure. I don't know why more pumps don't have these built in to the pump to prevent the pumps from running dry and wasting energy and/or ruining themselves.

You probably don't need an analog sensor, unless you want to monitor more than basic on/off. I have the heater safety switch wired to an Elk input via a relay, so the Elk can shut down the pool pump if there is a pressure problem after 2 minutes (usually enough time to re-prime itself). The Elk can also then announce when the heater turns off, indicating the hot tub is ready :)

I guess if I can't find an analog version of this, this is the way to go so I have some idea of what's going on. I am dealing with bad pollen issues here, clogging the filters within a day, dropping water output to very low levels, so water would still be flowing, but at a low rate. I was hoping to monitor/graph the water flow using spare I/O on my Arduino board.

I am disappointed as well that my pump doesn't have this switch built in, but I guess they would rather have our pumps die and buy a new one than make ours work forever ;)
 
I don't know if this would really solve your problem. The website doesn't list the pressure setpoint and it doesn't appear adjustable. If your pump inlet gets clogged but you still have some flow, there could be enough pressure for this thing to still be "switched". You might look at well pump pressure switches, they can be adjusted.
 
For a flow switch, I'd look at the ones used for the salt systems. They come with a 2" PVC T fitting for putting them inline wherever you need it. Here's an example one: http://cgi.ebay.com/Generic-Aquarite-Flow-Switch-salt-cell-/180669778323

Another thought is to take a look at your existing pool heater to see if it is using a similar pressure switch to what was shown above. You might be able to tie into it to get the status you need without any additional equipment investment.
 
Oil pressure sending units can be had for $15 with lots to choose from. Speaking on behalf of GM, they put out voltage from 0 to 5 in the range of 0 to 130 psi. I don't doubt that they would work, however, I do question whether they would not fail as a result of corrosion. Since they are designed to be immersed in oil, rust isn't a concern in the design. Maybe you want to play with it? When these fail, my experience they "peg", or, in other words, short out.

The suggestion about monitoring amps on the pump is a good one. If the line gets plugged up and the pump is working against higher pressure, the amp draw will go up. I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't a good correlation between psi and amps. You might even be able to convert that amps to psi. Certainly you could put a $7 standard psi guage on one of the pipes and then close down a valve and watch to see how close amp draw changes with psi.

One has been running several years and no failure yet. It looks like the from must be made from stainless steal because not even a small bit of rust.
 
For a flow switch, I'd look at the ones used for the salt systems. They come with a 2" PVC T fitting for putting them inline wherever you need it. Here's an example one: http://cgi.ebay.com/...l-/180669778323

Another thought is to take a look at your existing pool heater to see if it is using a similar pressure switch to what was shown above. You might be able to tie into it to get the status you need without any additional equipment investment.

I can't tell from the picture or description, does this provide me with an analog value, or just an on/off whenever flow is detected?

As for the heater idea, I installed solar heaters, so there isn't any hardware in place (yet).
 
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