Wiring Andersen 400 Woodright Windows

tadr

Active Member
I ran all of the wires to my windows/doors and I'm about to start hooking up sensors (I'm trying to get the sensors hooked up before they drywall on Wed). My windows are Andersen Woodright 400 series.

I've begun second-guessing myself about my window wiring plan, so I'm looking for some confirmation that I'm going about this the right way. I am planning to use 3/8" magnetic sensors with the small rare-earth doughnut magnets. My plan was to drill the bottom and top sills in order to recess the sensors (I plan to wire both the upper and lower sash). I then planned to glue the magnets into the recessed channel in the sash.

I understand that this may void the warranty -- however I will not be drilling into the sash itself, so it seems like risk is minimal. Do I need to worry about leakage through the hole in the lower sill? I am planning to seal the hole with silicone.

These are my windows: http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/Satellite/AW/AWProduct/awProductDetail/AWProduct/1135095639822/1102951372825?model=400+Series+Woodwright+Double-Hung+Insert+Window&tab=1-1

This is how I plan to mount the sensors:
window_sensor.jpg
 
It's your call of course, but you might want to reconsider that bottom mounting scheme as some people experienced leaking from rain, as the water would 'sit' in the bottom track and drain out the sides. It really all depends on the design of that tract and where you drill.

How hard would it be to drill the side? Do you have clearance for the magnet on the side of the window? Can you secure it with a small length sheet metal screw (small round magnet with the hole in the middle)?
 
Yeah you definitely need to worry about leakage; those windows should have a way they tilt out of the track so you can install a magnet on the side and the sensor in the side - where water doesn't pool. Silicone would probably last years; but once the plastic cracks or a leak develops, you won't know it until damage has occurred. The contact sensor may not like it either, being in water all the time.
 
Yeah you definitely need to worry about leakage; those windows should have a way they tilt out of the track so you can install a magnet on the side and the sensor in the side - where water doesn't pool. Silicone would probably last years; but once the plastic cracks or a leak develops, you won't know it until damage has occurred. The contact sensor may not like it either, being in water all the time.

Hmm, not the answer I was hoping for -- but I'm glad I asked. I supposed I'll have to take another look at the windows to see if the sensors can be side-mounted.
 
Will the sensor work with the magnet if its mounted under the frame of the window?

This way you wouldn't have to drill into any part of the window frame voiding the warranty.
 
Will the sensor work with the magnet if its mounted under the frame of the window?

This way you wouldn't have to drill into any part of the window frame voiding the warranty.

That's an awesome idea -- but I think the distance is too much (perhaps 1.5"?). Has anyone done this before?
 
I'm not totally sure; but I think its been mentioned before somewhere on this forum; or someone that tried it posted something about it. I attached a picture of some wide gap reed switches.
 

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I'm not totally sure; but I think its been mentioned before somewhere on this forum; or someone that tried it posted something about it. I attached a picture of some wide gap reed switches.

I did a quick search and it looks like you can even get extra wide gap sensors (~3" gap). Has anyone done this successfully? It seems like a much better option to keep the sensor entirely under the window frame...
 
I did a quick search and it looks like you can even get extra wide gap sensors (~3" gap). Has anyone done this successfully? It seems like a much better option to keep the sensor entirely under the window frame...

I just bought 3 different types of extra wide gap sensors (2" and 2.75"). I'm going to try placing the sensor below the window frame once I get them and see if that works...
 
Drill a standard 3/8 contact.
The leakage I believe most people are talking about are from putting contacts in vinyl windows or sloppy drilling. Vinyl windows typically have a double sill that is used to weep out water, which is what I believe most are referring to by leaking windows.

A normal contact will be a tight interference fit in the sill/wood and isn't likely to leak unless you put the windows underwater.
 
Would someone mind commenting on whether the wide gap sensors will work? Has anyone tried this before? I would really like to put the sensor on the windows without voiding the warranty on my windows by having to drill through them. This seems like it would be a very logical thing to do. Has anyone got any experience doing this?
 
Would someone mind commenting on whether the wide gap sensors will work? Has anyone tried this before? I would really like to put the sensor on the windows without voiding the warranty on my windows by having to drill through them. This seems like it would be a very logical thing to do. Has anyone got any experience doing this?

You can use small exterior magnetic sensors like the ones I show in my Home Security How To.

This was great because due to the nature of those windows (spring mechanism on the sides and did NOT want to drill in the bottom). Wide gap just means the distance is increased from the magnet to the sensor before it trips. Usually this is like an inch vs. a standard half inch. I personally think the wide gaps would prevent any false alarms, but when mounted and aligned properly, standard ones are fine as well.
 
Would someone mind commenting on whether the wide gap sensors will work? Has anyone tried this before? I would really like to put the sensor on the windows without voiding the warranty on my windows by having to drill through them. This seems like it would be a very logical thing to do. Has anyone got any experience doing this?

I have 3 different types of wide gap sensors arriving on Monday (two 2-inch gap and one 2.75-inch gap). I'll report back. I'm going to test these out and if that doesn't work I'm going to drill the sash.
 
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