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Wiring and Programing help with HAI 4-Relay Module to Open Garage Door - OmniPro II


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#1 Luv2Automate

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 01:56 PM

So I have HAI Omni Pro II (OPII) and finally trying to get Garage door to open and close from OPII.
So far I did connect the garage door opener (liftmaster 3280m) to 4-Relay Module on OPII.
when I connect the cables to relay module I cannot use my hard wire garage door ( Let me know if something is wrong with this setup )
Since garage door opener does not show the common wire I hotwired it and red pin is common and two white pins are NC and NO (that's what i think).
I set the output on PC Access to GENERAL PURPOSE


BSR Edit: Additional info from the OP via another thread on this topic:

I have OPII and got 4-Reolay Module to control the garge door to open and close from my phone and HAI 5.7e.

I have liftmaster 3280m and when i connect the NC, C and NO my hardwire garage door opener does not work.

i am not sure if photo link will work but here is the link so you can see how i have wired this thing.
s1187.photobucket.com/albums/z392/gujuraja/?action=view&current=20120102_115457.jpg

I have program the Output in OPII to General Purpose .

any idea what i am doing wrong?

is the cabling? I am not what what is Common NC NO cables for liftmaster or i need to chagne the settings in PC Access?


Thank you for your help everyone

Edited by BraveSirRobbin, 02 January 2012 - 02:55 PM.


#2 BraveSirRobbin

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 02:50 PM

Very quickly as there are a ton of posts on this subject here:

You most likely should not connect both NO and NC along with C on the relay. It should probably be NO and C (normally open) and when the relay 'triggers' those two contacts get shorted together.

Are you going across a hardwired button?

Also you want to make the trigger to the relay momentary (only last a half second or so).

You can also do this via a spare remote control. Search for my How To Automate your Garage Door using its remote.

Edited by BraveSirRobbin, 02 January 2012 - 02:58 PM.


#3 Luv2Automate

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 07:07 PM

Are you going across a hardwired button?
no i am going straight to garage door opener (see photo link)

Here are the pictures. it was my first post and i was not able to upload photos link.

s1187.photobucket.com/albums/z392/gujuraja/?action=view&current=20120102_115457.jpg
s1187.photobucket.com/albums/z392/gujuraja/?action=view&current=garage.jpg

when i hot wire Pin A to B i was able to open the door and same with A to C so i figure A is a common.

I just connected B(Garage door opener) to NO(Relay) and A(garage door opener) to C(Relay) and my hard wire button does not work. so i am back to same issue. I will look at more post as you suggested.

Thank you

#4 BraveSirRobbin

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 08:41 PM

Hmm, I really don't know why your button would not work if indeed you are taking the A and B to the NO and C of the relay (polarity would not matter), especially since you said you could hotwire A to B and the door would open.

You could just hack a remote as shown HERE.

Are you positive that you don't have anything else connected on the garage door wiring (i.e. just the A and B going to the relay)? Also, are you just triggering the relay momentarily for a half second to a second?

EDIT: I looked up your manual for your garage door (Installation Step 6) and it seems there is a lot happening at the local switch that is just going over two wires, so this might not be as simple as a contact closure between A and B to open and close the door. I guess I still don't understand why your local control goes away when wiring the relay in parallel with the overall two wires going to the switch as it wouldn't do anything since the relay is an 'open'.

Edited by BraveSirRobbin, 02 January 2012 - 08:45 PM.


#5 BraveSirRobbin

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 08:47 PM

I also noticed you have two wires running from each terminal of the relay. What is the 'other' wire going to?

#6 AllanMar

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 10:09 PM

Your Garage door opener appears very similar to mine ( I have a sears, which i believe is just rebranded version). While I haven't automated mine just yet, I have looked at it a fair bit.

The white terminals on the garage door opener are common I believe. (I could be wrong... also used for the safety sensors). Now many newer garage door openers are no longer just shorting contacts (the local control has a display, or backlights or something similar, so it requires power), typically if you just short the contacts (Red & white) sometimes the opener will work, other times it won't. Usually if you have a local control and you short the contacts, the local control will lose power. The way you have it setup in the image.... When the relay is off you will be shorting Red & White. When the relay is on, you will also be shorting Red and white. Why are you trying to connect Red, White and White? I would expect your current local control is just connected to red & white?

It may work with Red to NO, and White to C, but I expect you'll have problems with the local control when you do.

I suspect you could experiment with resistances to find one that causes the door to close and the control panel to remain working (what I've been meaning to do, although it could be more complicated then this). Alternatively you could go across the button contacts in the local control (probably the easiest solution...which would just be a shorting contact) or as mentioned above similarly hack a wireless remote.

#7 Desert_AIP

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 10:20 PM

If shorting A to B operates the door and shorting A to C operates the door, then the way you have it wired nothing will ever happen because you aren't changing anything.
The NC-C pair are already shorted, when you operate the relay and short the NO-C pair, nothing changes at the opener.
A is ALWAYS shorted to one of the terminals.

It's like pressing the wall button and holding it down, then pressing another button wired in parallel.
The first button is alwyas shorted, so the opener can't see the second button close.

You should only need one shorting pair. Remove the NC wire from the relay.

Edited by Desert_AIP, 02 January 2012 - 10:26 PM.


#8 AllanMar

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 10:42 PM

Had a look at my GDO. The local control appears to use some sort of data bus, I have a scope/protocol analyzer which I may use to have a look in to it further sometime, but its hardly worth the effort. I believe even though these openers support these newer controls, a short across these contacts will still work. If you don't have one the fancier controllers that has the time/etc on it, just shorting the contacts should work for you.

If you have one of the ones with the display shorting the contacts will reset it so I would suggest just finding the button inside the local control and wiring the relay across this (will probably have to solder), you could also set it up to control the Lock/Light buttons as well if you wanted.

#9 Luv2Automate

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 07:26 PM

Thank you all for your help.
I am able to open and close the garage door when I disconnected the hardwire garage door opener and removed NC.
Right now I have NO and C connected to replay board. Now I just have to figure out how to get the hardwire working. For now I have screwed in my wireless remote next to hardwire button since I will be able to control garage door from my phone.

#10 Luv2Automate

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 07:31 PM

I also noticed you have two wires running from each terminal of the relay. What is the 'other' wire going to?


I had Cat5 running to OPII so i just paired it.




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