22 replies to this topic

[Linwood]

I ordered a SWB28 and it did not arrive, and so far no word on when it will. My local Home Depot has the Leviton 47605-28W which at least in the pictures looks very similar.

I'm thinking that if I can't confirm it is coming very soon tomorrow I will just go buy one.

Anyone know how similar they are, holes aline the same way more or less, same kind of studs to connect brackets, etc?

http://www.leviton.c...8&section=10349

http://www.elkproduc...ng_Box,_28_inch

I got the M1G Friday and have done bench testing, and spent most of the weekend in entirely unnatural exercise in the attic running firewire. Now want to make it all work and don't have a box.

[DELInstallations]

If you're running multiple Elk components and using SWG's, I would wait, personally. I find it counter-productive if you buy a can and start having to modify it by drilling, etc.

If you're using plates to mount devices on the flat, then it's the same.

[Linwood]

I think I know what SWG's are, those are the little slotted guides?

No, I am using mounting plates (though what they sent me isn't working well so far -- the holes do not line up, they sent me a WLK-SWP3 with the ELK-M1DBH. The latter has four holes, but they aling on the moutning plate only with screw-size holes, not with holes large enough for the little standoff clips it came with. Figured a drill press would fix it, but have not yet.

So these (ELK-SWP3 type brackets) will fit the Leviton as well?

Waiting is hard when one lacks even a ship date. I'm really annoyed, the retailer sent all the stuff without the box (and one other part), but included a packing list saying "shipped". I called and they searched and said "we drop shipped that separately from the manufacturer", promised me an ETA and tracking number, and never gave it. Hoping to get one Monday. But it sounds a lot like "backordered" to me.

[DELInstallations]

I honestly don't like laying the boards down on flat, but to each their own. In the case of the M1 and Elk can, all their boards will fit on SWG's, with the exception of something like a PD-9 or 212S, and all their boards that come in a plastic clamshell enclosure will fit on SWG's, but don't include them.

With a Leviton can, you need to use Leviton compatible plates, either Leviton brand or compatible/dual pattern.

[Linwood]

I had no idea (until you mentioned SWG and I searched) that there was an alternative to flat. This is my first Elk, I depended on the dealer to get me the right accompanyments. So far not impressed with the dealer (very impressed with the Elk, so far everything is working perfectly).

Edited by Linwood, 22 January 2012 - 07:57 PM.

[pmb1010]

ELK-M1DBH. The latter has four holes, but they aling on the moutning plate only with screw-size holes, not with holes large enough for the little standoff clips it came with. Figured a drill press would fix it, but have not yet.

I had to drill the 4 holes in the stand off mouting plate a little bit to get the DBH standoffs clips to fit also...

[chrisexv6]

Id wait for the correct box too.....I too hate laying boards down flat, too many possibilities of shorting something to the case

I went thru this decision as well, as my local HD has a great clearance price on the 42" Leviton can. But the fact it doesnt already have the correct holes for the Elk glides makes the clearance price a moot point.

[Linwood]

That means ordering glides.

But help me understand. I have done one alarm before but it was a simple moose system with one board. But I live computer and network wiring and racks, and do not understand the concern with lying flat. If anything to me it makes for a more spread out layout which means I have room for cleaner wiring. Most main boards in systems of all sorts run parallel to and a fraction of an inch off a metal case on standoffs. Is the concern that alarms are in dirty places and something might fall down behind it?

[wuench]

The leviton is a better made can if you are laying them flat (and more expensive), I don't see any more risk of shorting than if you mount perpendicular with the cards close together, that's what standoffs are for. Mounting perpendicular using the glides is probably a better use of space, though. Both have a standard hole layout but the Elk can has additional holes for the perpendicular mounting. I also like the extension ring and the options for power at the bottom of the leviton can.

I used the brass motherboard standoffs instead of the plastic ones, got the idea from Electron's setup. They seem a lot easier to use, more stable, and you can adjust the "height" by using multiple standoffs. Electron even mounted several boards on top of each other using them.

Edited by wuench, 23 January 2012 - 09:20 AM.

[Linwood]

Just got an automated mailing that hte Elk board will be here tomorrow, so it is probably moot, but thanks for all the info. THat's if this is really that package, as I have something else coming also.

[chrisexv6]

Its just a pet peeve Ive had since building PCs. Dont know how many times Ive dropped a screw into a PC case (PC off, of course) that ended up behind a motherboard. If everything was mounted standing up it wouldnt be a problem. Glide mounting also uses a lot less space, and my alarm isnt something I plan on tinkering with (much, famous last words...) so vertical mounting is better for me.

If the universal bracket holder things werent so expensive Id go with the Leviton can on clearance, but any savings would quickly be negated by having to buy the plates.

[DELInstallations]

I originally didn't like the idea of mounting the boards vertically, that is until I put together an Elk after having a eureka moment and seeing how and where everything all fit within an Elk 28" enclosure. I had used multiple 14" cans on a few jobs prior because of the combinations of RF and remote expansion.
Cable management is moot IMHO, because I typically end up using ty-raps that have the screw mounting point built in to secure bundles, then dress cables appropriately per expander and then cable lace the bundles. The only downside is having bundles put weight on the terminal connections, so strain relief is necessary. Sliding a board isn't tough to do and prewiring the terminal blocks then plugging is the way to go. I don't find it necessary to "revisit" expanders after they're addressed and I get the happy blinks.
I think what really sold me is the size of a system, barring items that must be laid flat (212S, battery shelf, PD9, etc.) is that a very large system can be put in a 28" can without being crammed in or difficult to service. I want to say you can fit something like 8 expanders across a 28" can, with still having room for a battery and an Elk 950 mounted in the can. Take that and what would normally come with a SYS4 kit (the 14") and that's a pretty massive system.

[Linwood]

OK, I feel silly now -- I'm staring at this new 28" cabinet, and the M1G, and --- none of the holes line up. Yes, I can drill holes, and will if needed (and will have to for some other cards), but shouldn't the black plastic case align somewhere?

I've tried turning it in all directions and maybe I am simply missing it, but no where does more than 2 holes aline with holes in the black case.

[wuench]

I had to drill my Leviton can. I can't remember on my Elk can that I ended up reselling. But if you can't get it to line up, Leviton and other manufacturers make generic plates that line up with the standard holes that you can drill instead.

[chrisexv6]

OK, I feel silly now -- I'm staring at this new 28" cabinet, and the M1G, and --- none of the holes line up. Yes, I can drill holes, and will if needed (and will have to for some other cards), but shouldn't the black plastic case align somewhere?

I've tried turning it in all directions and maybe I am simply missing it, but no where does more than 2 holes aline with holes in the black case.

If its the correct one, I believe the M1 board mounts all the way to the top, in the center of the can. Did it come with an instruction sheet? I think you can find it on Elks website, or SmartHome if Elk requires a login that you may or may not have.

Im pretty sure there are specifics as to where to mount the M1 board.