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Elk M1RB Sprinkler Controls


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#1 schwa13

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 12:24 PM

I have read some of the posts here but having hard time understanding how to get setup. Have not done much on the programming side before.

Have 4 sprinkler valves in yard. Have one wire running from valves to Elk M1RB. White (Com), Red, Yellow, Black, Green. The single com is spliced at the valve side to go to each valve. The single com on the Elk side is spliced to go to each Com on the M1RB. Outputs, 9-12.

RYBG, are each into the N/O on the M1RB.

Configured some F keys just for testing purposes to see if I can send the controls to turn the valves on/off, but not getting anywhere yet.
  • At the most basic level, how can I tell that the M1RB is properly installed and recognized by the M1.
  • Should the LED illuminate on the M1RB when the relay is hit?
  • Do I need a power brick at the valve side? I saw another post with a Rain8 that has a power brick in the config.

Thank you.

#2 wuench

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 12:39 PM

Yes, you have to power your valves with an outside power source, the Elk can't power the valves, it is only 12V. You splice the common to the power supply and the other side is spliced to all the relays. The run your valve wires to each relay. You do not connect the Elk common to the common on the relays. The relays are powered through J1.

You want:

Valve ---------- NO ---/ /---- COM ----- + Power Supply - -------------- Valve


You also need to be careful in your programming to not turn on more valves than your power supply can handle at one time. I have an Elk 24V power supply on my system and can power 2 valves at a time.

Edited by wuench, 11 August 2012 - 12:50 PM.


#3 BraveSirRobbin

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 03:53 PM

THIS schematic was created to help another forum member use external relays (not a relay board), but the sprinkler/wall wart wiring is the same.

#4 Work2Play

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 06:20 PM

If I were you, I'd start by disconnecting everything from the M1RB and testing its operation; if you have iPhone control or similar, you can just turn the outputs on/off and make sure you hear the click and see the light come on. If not, check that it's properly enrolled, etc.

Once you know the M1RB is hooked up correctly to the M1, then you can work on the sprinkler side. As said above, you'll need a separate 24VAC power supply. I happen to use Elk's 24VAC 40VA one and it lets me turn on 3-4 zones at a time if I really want.

With the power supply, you'll hook the common directly up to all the zones - just twist them together; then wire each sprinkler zone to a "Common" terminal on a relay off the M1RB, and loop the other transformer wire through each of the NO terminals for each sprinkler zone.

This is only slightly different than what others might say - functionally it's exactly the same, but this leaves the NC side so you could parallel in an off-the-shelf sprinkler timer as well as some people like to do. Otherwise others might recommend you loop the transformer's terminal through the Common on each relay, and the sprinkler to the NO side - but then that leaves you with nothing you could ever do with the NC side.

Hope that makes sense - if not I can try & clarify.

#5 schwa13

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 07:10 PM

ok, great, thanks for that part. I bought a 24V power adapter from the electric store and stripped the end connector off. Now I should wire the single common coming from all the valves directly to the positive wire of the transformer? I can follow directions, great with the computer and tech side, but not with the electrical part.

As suggested, I did test basic output on/off on the M1RB, I can see the LED and hear the click when it goes on.

Thanks

#6 wuench

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 07:19 PM

Hopefully that supply is 24v AC (and not DC). You need a fuse too, per BSR's drawing, that prevents you overdrawing the power supply. The ELK 24VAC power supplies have a built in circuit breaker.

Edited by wuench, 11 August 2012 - 07:20 PM.


#7 schwa13

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 07:30 PM

Unfortunately the schematic is kind of beyond my understanding, TCP/IP no problem, AC/DC not good...

OK, I bought a 24V DC, I will get a AC instead.

Thought this was easier to accomplish from what I had read previously, life is always like that. I don't want to give up and buy a dumb timer yet!

Edited by schwa13, 11 August 2012 - 07:31 PM.


#8 jpmargis

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 07:32 PM

With most sprinkler valves, DC will work as well as AC.

Follow the schematic linked to post #3 connection-by-connection and you wll be up and running in no time. Just start with one valve to get past the learning curve.

Edited by jpmargis, 11 August 2012 - 07:37 PM.


#9 schwa13

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 08:25 PM

Thank you for the guidance, got it working with the DC adapter. If using DC vs. AC is dangerous please let me know. Need to figure out the fuse part, will do that tomorrow.

Appreciate the feedback, most important thing is being able to start sprinklers from my phone. Completely useless for me, but fun nonetheless!




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