Best Wire Labeling Approach

Hi-

I've searched the site, and came across a few relevant threads dating back to 2009, and wondering if there's newer information/opinions on this topic. I'm nearing the end of my wiring project, and I need to start thinking about how I'm going to label everything. While I currently remember where everything goes, I know that 1, 2, or 3 years from now I'll need a few more reminders.

That being said, I've read some reports that labels from labeling machines sometimes start peeling (I had similar results with the Brother labeler that I used on my last install years back). I'm going to pick up a Dymo Rhino 4200, and I'm looking to see what the best options are for actually labeling wires.

I'm not too fond of the "flag" style of wire marking, as I have many, many wires. Everything is going into two 42" structured wiring enclosures, and I'd like to wrap the label around the cable to conserve space, but not if it's going to cause peeling.

I have a number of Cat5/Cat6 cables (about 60 runs), RG6 (about 25 runs), 14/2 CL3 cased speaker wire (about 60 runs), along with 22/2, 22/4, and 18/2 security wire (about 30 runs). This means that if I decide to go with heat shrink tubing, I'm guessing that I'll need at least two sizes (3/4" and 1/2") and possibly a smaller size yet for the security wires.

I'm hoping that people can chime in on what they chose when going through the labeling process, and what the results were (peeling, labels falling off, etc). If anyone has any experience with shrink tubing, if you have ideas on how I can estimate how much I need to order, I'd appreciate the input. Also, if there's any pros/cons to the different label types (vinyl, flexible nylon, heat shrink tubing, etc.) I'd be happy to hear it.

Thanks!

I would not recommend any form of adhesive based labelling on cabling. The printer labels work fine for flat surfaces but generally worthless on any form of wire or cabling over time.

Over time, it tends to dry off, fall off, or "move" and make gummy spots on the cables. Label books and number reels are just as horrible, not to mention usually the "key" to them disappears over time.

If you're going to label a bunch of cable, then I'd go the heatshrink for a Dymo, assuming cost is not an issue.

If you have jacketed cables, sometimes a cleanly written label on the jacket using a sharpie works fine also.

How much you're going to need to order would be determined by your labelling scheme. I would not go larger than 1/2" for any of the cables listed.

Hi DEL-

Thanks for the insight! I'm new to the Dymo printers, I thought that I read somewhere that it was 3:1 shrink ratio for the shrink tubing, and that the RG6 ended up being the odd-man requiring a larger size. If I can get by with 1/2" all around, I'd be much happier (and it'll make estimating that much easier). Will 1/2" heat shrink tubing work for the 22/2 shielded security cable (that's the smallest cables that I have).

Then the second question is about the approach - obviously the tubing needs to be applied before the cable is terminated. Do you have to worry about how close the label is to the termination to avoid bends around the location that the tubings eventually calls home? Since this is all going into a can, is it best to get everything labelel, then terminated, then routed, and then finally do the heat application once everything is in place to make sure that the text is facing the correct direction?

Thanks!

dw886 said:

Then the second question is about the approach - obviously the tubing needs to be applied before the cable is terminated. Do you have to worry about how close the label is to the termination to avoid bends around the location that the tubings eventually calls home? Since this is all going into a can, is it best to get everything labelel, then terminated, then routed, and then finally do the heat application once everything is in place to make sure that the text is facing the correct direction?

Click to expand...

The heat shrink seems to give the best long-term solution; though as DEL mentioned, sometimes a clear sharpie is all you need - That's all I've done in a lot of my installs. For stuff I do professionally, I do use the heat shrink (did some today even). It's more expensive, and there are no go-backs unless you cut and re-terminate. It bugs me to no end in areas where something changes and the label isn't worth re-terminating to match.

When I do use it, I slip the heat shrink on and leave it loose until the job is pretty much done, then shrink them all down with a heat gun.

In data centers, I've also used a lot of the nylon tape. Put the labeler in wrap mode and print just like you see in the picture. That's good for cables that are pre-terminated or for the inevitable corrections. I've had some in service for a few years with no major peeling problems.

For distance-to-termination, try to get them where they're close to the end but not where there'll be a bend at the label itself.

Heat shrink is, of course, the best option. However, I've printed standard labels I have on hand with excellent success. What I do is wrap the label around the cable and then wrap the label with clear packing tape. The label will never come off and I have ones going back many years that are still like new and look great.

I don't think the rhino series will do this but I could be wrong...
Use the dymo fx-tze (tze-fx?) series tape. The fx means flexible. Been using it for many years now and it's got a special glue that will not peel so you can wrap it on the cables like you want to. The thing is you need to use the pc software, this is where I'm not sure about the rhinos, to make the labels since the 'built-in' cable wrap will only allow one line of text. With the pc you can write as many lines per the size of tape and the text is adjusted to fit automatically.
I've used this in rooms that are just like saunas and the labels stay put.

Frunple,

The Rhino 4200 allows multiple lines in cable wrap mode. Just hit the return key to get an additional line. I'm in the process of rewiring and cleaning up my install and am using the 4200 with the 3/4" Flexible Nylon tape (p/n 18489).

Kevin

I use the dymo heat shrink as much as possible. I use 1/4" or 3/8" for 22/2, 22/4 and 1/2" for Cat5. I don't think I have used any on RG6, you may have to bump it up in size, but 1/2" may work. Also, I don't always shrink the tape, for some of those the tape is pretty snug on it's own, and if I don't shrink it I can slide the label/turn it to the most convenient spot to read it.

I have used the Dymo labels too for patches, AV cables, etc, and unless you use tape big enough to wrap it and seal on itself or you use the flag method it may still come off. So now I usually do an HWRAP with the labels which prints a repeating label then I wrap them. The only downside is you can't get as much text in that mode.

I typically go with the sharpie route. The only time I see nicely printed labels are on jobs that are union where the cost of the labor and materials are not an issue.
If you can read your own hand writing, the sharpie will suffice. If you want a pretty installation you can show all of your friends, label and shrink. Dymo or P-Touch will work fine. No need for a Brady in the home unless you really have a bunch of cash to drop on something that most likely won't be seen.

I had good results printing the labels on a spreadsheet in various sizes, cutting them into strips, and tucking them under clear heat shrink. After six years there is no sign of fading, slipping, etc, and the cost was hard to beat as I had no access to a decent label machine.

Definitely a lot of ways to accomplish this! Photon's is a way I've heard before and seems to work well; and even Sharpie doesn't really fade if it's on a wire that's not being handled regularly, which is usually the case.

To clear up the Rhino issue, search for Rhino Flexible Nylon - that's the tape that is meant to be very flexible. Use the WRAP function (you don't need to hit enter multiple times and repeat what you type) - it'll repeat the same line over and over a bunch of times, and the length of the strip it gives you is dependent upon which wire type you selected IIRC. Those stand up very well to time, but as mentioned above, you lose character width in that mode. For shrink-wrap, I'll use smaller font and multiple lines of text to describe the run if needed.

The Rhino's are capable of a LOT of features if you read the book - including being able to tell it the spacing required, and it'll give you a perfect-width label for longer applications like labeling an entire 24-port patch panel in one piece of tape or multiple jacks on a wall plate in addition to what's listed above.

And for Coax, 1/2" seems to be the trick - it'll be just snug enough to fit and slide freely but stay relatively put - until you shrink it.

I haven't tried it, but I've read of someone else suggesting regular nylon Dymo label wrapped around the cable, with a clear heat shrink over that; cheaper than the Dymo heat shrink labels.

I think for larger cables, you may need to buy a label maker that can accomodate 3/4" labels - not sure if 1/2" is large enough for heat shrinking labels, but large enough if not heat shrinking.

I like Dymo, but they're way too overpriced.

In other than "data center" installs: read as non-climate controlled, the labels didn't work so well in warm/heated racks, lots of creep and in the case of the "digit roll" style, lots of drying out and falling off. Nylon and similar tended to have adhesive creep. YMMV.

If you're doubtful of how legible they need to be and space isn't too much of a concern, I like using ty-raps with a integral tag, then bundle individual runs from there, such as a single pull of 2 Cat 5, 2 RG6, etc. since the pulls end up using a different color for each similar cable.

Also, I've got a couple of Rhino's, Dymo typically offers a package where the purchase of X units of tape will get you a free Rhino....typically saves a little in comparison to buying separately. Usually 5-10 cartridges, which is easy to burn up on a normal wiring job.

I've been using flags, with good stability over time, but they look crappy, and it uses a lot of label. It's good behind a wall plate, but I'll use the clear heat shrink over a wrapped label when I replace the rack.

I did my house and homerun all my telephone, LAN, Video, and security sensor runs. I spent hours labeling them only to find that by the time the plaster work was done and I was ready to start working with them, half the labels were on the floor and many more were ready to fall off. I gave up and bought the cable tracer which uses a small tone generator connected to the cable at the room end and uses a tone detector to find the cable in the bundle at the wiring closet end. It worked like a charm. So my advice is to forget the labeling, save the many hours of labor, and spend the $70 or $80 dollars to buy the cable tracer tool. Once I had my cables terminated and connected to the switchs, routers, security controller, etc, I placed PTouch labels on the boxes next to the connections to label them. On devices like the security and automation controller, I did an Excel sheet with the connection number, wire color, and far end device name such as Lower Level Motion Detector #2 and taped it to the inside of the wiring panel door. This approach also had made it easy to work on the cabling or make changes over time for equipment upgrades, etc.