I don't know if anyone cares about this topic anymore, but thought I'd share my fix. It's doable by anyone with a little soldering knowledge.
Note: The 32A00 uses a cold-cathode fluorescent backlight, and as such, generates hundreds of volts to operate the CCFL. My lawyer says to not open up the 32A00 under any circumstances, and I am certainly not recommending it either. He also said to tell you that any damage you might do to your unit is on you, etc.
I have five of these panels in my home and they have been slowly dying one by one. Two of them died after two sequential power glitches, much like Brian mentioned; the third is in the process of dying. Basically you plug the unit into the four wire connector, you see what looks like computer code/initialization code flashing on the screen, then the screen blanks, and the unit starts beeping. This then cycles continuously until you can't stand the beeping anymore, disconnect the four wire connector, and put the dead unit back into the wall to cover up the hole.
As you might expect, since the problem appeared after a power spike, the issue is in the power handling part of the board. If you were to UNPLUG THE FOUR-PIN CONNECTOR, face the screen down on a soft cloth on a table, and open up the back of the 32A00, you will find a stack of four boards, one on top of the other:
The bottom-most board is the display screen, it's fastened to the plastic housing 'face'
On top of the display: I'll call this the 'motherboard'. It's connected to the display screen by a flex cable.
On top of the motherboard: I'll call this the 'connector board'. It's connected to the motherboard by multiple sets of pins that fit into sockets, as well as four screws. It also bears the four-wire connector used to connect to the Omnipro.
On top of the connector board: There is a small rectangular board that fits into a socket on the connector board. It is covered by a black plastic piece and has a separate wire connecting it to the display. This is the high voltage generation board; the black piece is there to prevent shock.
For some unfathomable reason, the 32A00 takes in 12 volts DC, then down converts it to 3.3VDC to run the motherboard, then upconverts the 3.3VDC to 330VAC to run the CCFL. The weak point in this design appears to be a capacitor that has to serve as a charge reservoir for both the motherboard and the high voltage board.
To get at this capacitor, confirm the unit is unplugged. Remove the high voltage wire plug from the end of the high voltage board (it just unplugs). Remove the four screws holding the connector board to the motherboard. You should then be able to gently but firmly pull the connector board free from the motherboard by freeing the pins on one board from the socket of the other.
You should then have unobstructed access to the motherboard. The problem capacitor is a 22 microfarad surface mount electrolytic capacitor labelled 'C5' located at one corner of the motherboard. The capacitor looks like a half-silver, half-black can and will probably say '220' on it. This is the notation for a 22 microfarad capacitor. (If you care, this notation means you multiply the first two digits, i.e., 22, by ten raised to the power of the third digit, or zero. Since 10^0 = 1, this is a 22 microfarad capacitor. If you don't care, look for the can that says '220' on it at the place where the label on the motherboard says 'C5').
I bought a Panasonic 22 microfarad, 25 volt surface mount electrolytic capacitor (cost: about 20 cents), took out the old capacitor, and soldered in the new one. Very easy removal and replacement. Reassembled the board stack (don't forget to plug the high voltage wire back into the high voltage board), put it back in its case, plugged it into the 4-pin connector, and voila - working again.
By the way, these are electrolytic capacitors, so polarity is important. As mentioned above, they look like a can with numbers on the top and a black stripe on one side. When you put the new capacitor in, make sure you observe polarity and put the black stripe of the new capacitor on the electrode where the old capacitor's black stripe was. Otherwise you may need to buy a new capacitor (or worse). I recommend you take a picture before you remove the old cap. But, if you forget, there is a '+' on the printed circuit board to help you - attach the NON-black side of the new capacitor to the '+' electrode.
I did this to the two dead 32A00s and it fixed them both. I probably won't do it to the dying one until it completely dies.
Hope this helps and keeps these cool old technologies going for a while longer.
Joe
P.S. If you want to verify this is your problem, remove the uppermost high voltage board (unplug it from the motherboard and the display board) and plug your 32A00 back into the four-prong connector. Of course the backlight won't light, but there should be no cycle beeping and your LED should light and/or flash depending on the state of your system; and if you have anything set up to beep like an open door or window, it will beep on cue. What's happening is that by removing the high voltage board, you're lightening the load on the damaged capacitor C5, and allowing it to drive the logic part of the board even in its diminished state. You can't see the screen, but you can see the LED and hear the audible signals. In fact, if this is enough for you and you don't need the screen, you can operate in this mode without the C5 replacement fix.
