Replacing existing outlet with an x10 sr227... Questions..

Jason B

Member
The ac outlet I want to replace is also controlled by a wall switch that cuts power to the top outlet. I want to install a sr227 to replace this ac outlet but there are double the wires in here than in the other outlets I've replaced with the sr227's. Can I still get it to work propery? Also, there are no wire nuts current in the stock box. All wires come out and into the current outlet.

The outlet I want to replace looks like this one on the LEFT.

multiple_split_receptacle_wiring_diagram.jpg


And here is the 3 wire sr227:

x-10-pro-split-receptacle-module-sr227.jpg


 
 
Do you want the existing wall switch to do anything? I would assume not...  if you look at the side of the outlet, you'll see that there's a tab that gets cut/broken off when you want to separate the power leads to the top/bottom outlets - you have full-time power going to one, and switched power to the other - which is why there are two sets of wires.
 
I'd cap off the ones going to/from the switch, and hook the full time power to the new outlet.
 
You're really not supposed to negate the wallswitch on an outlet that is switched....old code holdover to keep a person from walking into a dark room or extension cords, but what you do is your own deal.
 
I'd suggest leaving the switched outlet and installing an automated one adjacent to it, easy enough to do.
 
DELInstallations said:
You're really not supposed to negate the wallswitch on an outlet that is switched....old code holdover to keep a person from walking into a dark room or extension cords, but what you do is your own deal.
 
I'd suggest leaving the switched outlet and installing an automated one adjacent to it, easy enough to do.
Is that if the room has no other switched luminaries?
 
True I was speaking purely of the mechanical side of how things should work; I can't imagine why you'd want to leave a switch dead but figured that was a separate issue.  Many people would also replace the switch with either a link-only switch or scene controller or something like that.
 
In this house, pretty much every room has a switched outlet in addition to switched overhead lights - so in nearly every case I capped the switched outlet to be full time power and put a scene controller in that switch's location - it's worked out quite well.
 
Is it a big deal to replace a gfi with an sr227? I don't really care about the protection of the gfi in its location.
 
In most cases, GFCIs are installed where they are required by the electrical code.  That includes most kitchen outlets, bathrooms, garages, basements, and crawl spaces. If your GFCI is in a place required by the code, then I would not replace it with a non-GFCI outlet.
 
Where is the one you want to remove?
 
RAL said:
In most cases, GFCIs are installed where they are required by the electrical code.  That includes most kitchen outlets, bathrooms, garages, basements, and crawl spaces. If your GFCI is in a place required by the code, then I would not replace it with a non-GFCI outlet.
 
Where is the one you want to remove?
The option would be to install a GFCI breaker instead and then replace the outlet. GFCI's are put in to prevent "us" from doing "stupid" things that we either didn't pay attention to or don't know better.
 
Personally, I wouldn't do it, I'd go the other way and replace the breaker if controlling was paramount.
 
Thanks, the other thing I can do is put an applicance module in the outlet, but that's going to look ugly. 
 
RAL said:
In most cases, GFCIs are installed where they are required by the electrical code.  That includes most kitchen outlets, bathrooms, garages, basements, and crawl spaces. If your GFCI is in a place required by the code, then I would not replace it with a non-GFCI outlet.
 
Where is the one you want to remove?
It's in a bathroom, I have led lights under a vanity and would rather use this, than an appliance module. I don't use a hairdryer, etc. just looking to keep thinks sleek. I could install a seconds outlet inside the vanity cabinet, but really don't want to do that,.
 
Jason B said:
It's in a bathroom, I have led lights under a vanity and would rather use this, than an appliance module. I don't use a hairdryer, etc. just looking to keep thinks sleek. I could install a seconds outlet inside the vanity cabinet, but really don't want to do that,.
 
If you were to install a second outlet that is daisy chained off of the existing GFCI outlet, that would meet the code requirements. But if you don't want to do that, then DEL's suggestion of installing a GFCI breaker would be the best way to go.
 
Here all of the bathroom outlets all are on a GFCI breakers.  The single outlets next to the sinks are on mudplates which are 4X4.  There you could replace the mudplate to add a second automated outlet.  That said it would look a bit tacky next to the sink.  Putting it under the sink in the cabinet would work. That is how the Kitchen garbage disposal is set up. 
 
Recall here that all of the older X10 automated outlets had top piece that was automated with bottom that was always on.  I used to use these for my outdoor LV lighting before switching to UPB and DC power supplies. 
 
As above in this home 1/2 of many outlets are switched at the wall.  I do keep childproof caps on the switched outlets that are not used. 
 
The bathrooms / kitchen outlets all have multiple GFCI's rather than one feeding a bunch of outlets.  The GFCI's and automated outlet would have big footprints in a 4X4 metal can.  I have not to date removed any GFCI outlets or breakers to automate stuff.
 
You would get more of a nice aesthetically pleasing look switching the power outlet on the wall.
 
Thanks, well, I just hooked it up as a test. The x10 outlet I have, has the top outlet that is controlled liked mentioned. I have a led strip that is plugged into it but when I switch it OFF, the led flickers every few seconds. Crap. I read about this problem before with leds. 
 
Yeah that is an issue with X10 switching of LED lighting.  You have to add a load there or switch to a DC Power supply.  
 
Here went to DIN mounted MeanWell DC power supplies for my LED stuff which is connected to a standard UPB wall switch.
 
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