ELK M1 only zone 1 works

I had three reed door switches in serial connected to zone 1. Everything worked fine.
 
I recently seperated them into individual zone connections. 1, 2 ,3 etc. 1 for each door. However only zone 1 works. If I check the switches with a ohm meter I have a continuity at the panel on each switch. When plugged into the board, the board shows 13.7 volts at zones 2 and 3 but zone 1 shows shorted and works as it did before.
What am I missing? The zones are configured identically.
 
Thanks,
 
Clay

Since you posted a home security question in the microcontroller forum, my initial reaction is to question your ability to measure continuity!  Ohms setting?  Low range?  Open with the probes apart?  Short with the probes together?

jpmargis said:

Since you posted a home security question in the microcontroller forum, my initial reaction is to question your ability to measure continuity!  Ohms setting?  Low range?  Open with the probes apart?  Short with the probes together?

Click to expand...

I set my Fluke meter on the continuity position and listen for the beep when I have electrons flowing. Is there another way?
Seriously though, this is a controller question as I am playing with the system, not protecting my home currently.

Did you use EOL resistors?  So, these 'were' in series and connected to one zone, now, you re-wired to separate zones?
 
How are the zones configured?  Are EOL's installed on each door?  If not, is EOL defeat selected each zone's setup?
 
To troubleshoot (first disconnect any wiring from the panel) your wiring put your meter on 'ohms' (upside down horseshoe shaped symbol), then if you can clip one zone lead to each probe, or as was mentioned above, take the measurement touching each wire but make sure your fingers are not in contact with the probe as body resistance can interfere with the readings.
 
Take a reading with the magnet near the sensor and far from the sensor (i.e. open and closed conditions).
 
Report back the readings here.

I think you misunderstand the meaning/purpose of the microcontroller subtopic.
 
That said, it would help to know more about what you've done. 
 
Prior to the change, did the three door contacts have home run wires that were then were connected in series at the panel, or were things wired door-to-door with only a single run back to the panel? i.e. did you run new wires to separate them into their own zones or simply rewire things at the panel? 
 
What is the resistance (in ohms) that you measure on each pair of wires from the panel end to the contact with the wire disconnected from the panel? 
 
Did the original configuration have an EOL resistor?   If so, does each zone now have its own EOLR?
 
Are the zones properly configured for operation with or without EOLRs?

RAL said:

I think you misunderstand the meaning/purpose of the microcontroller subtopic.
 
That said, it would help to know more about what you've done. 
 
Prior to the change, did the three door contacts have home run wires that were then were connected in series at the panel, or were things wired door-to-door with only a single run back to the panel? i.e. did you run new wires to separate them into their own zones or simply rewire things at the panel? 
 
What is the resistance (in ohms) that you measure on each pair of wires from the panel end to the contact with the wire disconnected from the panel? 
 
Did the original configuration have an EOL resistor?   If so, does each zone now have its own EOLR?
 
Are the zones properly configured for operation with or without EOLRs?

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I had the switches wired to a terminal block in the basement, and a single pair to the control panel. Now I have a 3 pairs at the control panel. No EOL resistors anywhere.
Total resistance across three switches measured currently at the panel is ≈1.1ohms. My meter measures inconsistently when measured one at a time, but bounces between .1 and .4 ohms.
The 3 zones are set according to my original single zone set-up.  Burglar entry 1, and normally closed.
 
 I apologize for the misunderstanding of the subtopic. I use my system as a microcontroller which has an alarm functionality built in. 

Please re-read my above instructions

Okay guys. Problem solved.
 
The connection at the panel is different than what I was expecting it to be. I misunderstood/misread the wiring diagram. I wired each switch to successive pins. This is incorrect. You place TWO wires in one terminal.
I come from an industrial electronic back ground and have never seen a FORCED two wire connection that was intentional. Meaning you HAVE to put two wires in one screw terminal. I assume this was done for space constraints. This is also different from my old alarm system which had each zone connected independently.
 
I knew each switch was working properly, and I understand how to read and correctly use a meter. What I didn't realize was that I had connected them wrong.
 
Sorry to bother you all.
 
Clay

Glad you got it working.

The easiest sensor for me to examine is the one in my garage entry door to house.  Added advantage: its the only one that I can get to without creating an opening directly to the 25 degree weather outside.  It is a "plunger" type switch, extended on open, depressed by the closed door on close.  The connections between the switch and the 12VDC wire are heat shrinked so I'll need to scrape that away to get the ohms reading.  Currently waiting for my camera to recharge so I can take a pic.  There is no obvious place for a resister in the wiring that I have exposed.
 
Measuring the resistance at the panel terminals, wires NOT attached, gives 4.7K Ohms.  My cheap little meter just has probes, so its difficult to get a steady reliable reading between the black and red wires, detached from the panel, for this zone.  There is definitely resistance there, just not sure what the value is (it could be around the 4.7K mark).

Sounds like an ITI panel was installed prior.
 
You need to locate the old resistors.

Hopefully the resistor is at the contact, otherwise the original installers most likely did a bonehead move. Doubt the resistor is integral to the contact.

frijoli said:

I set my Fluke meter on the continuity position and listen for the beep when I have electrons flowing. Is there another way?
Seriously though, this is a controller question as I am playing with the system, not protecting my home currently.

Click to expand...

When you set your meter this way, it reads only open or dead short. You should test set to the Ohms setting only and read the resistance values. 

Many meters with the "idiot beeper" have a very wide range of resistances that they function on, some I've owned were up to the 250-500 ohm range....