New install, flourescent lights causing noise on HLC network

av8r

Member
Using upstart, I was able to find the problem with my HLC network.  I have 12 fluorescent 8' fixtures in my hangar. They are divided up into 2 banks of 6 fixtures, each with it's own on/off switch and 20 amp circuit breaker. 
 
My question is this: what is the best way to go about filtering these fixtures, since I don't want to replace them.  Could I wire in one of Pulseworx inline choke filters per bank?  At $27 each, that would be the most economical way, if they would do the job.
 
Thanks,
 
Paul
 
I haven't gotten around to installing switches yet, I just wanted to get the noise out so that my existing 5 dimmers would work.  Those 12 fixtures COMPLETELY noise up my system to the point nothing works at all. With those fluorescent lights off, I have virtually zero noise.
 
Those filters appear to be rated at 10 amps.  So, if each bank, or six 2-tube fixtures, are pulling ~768 watts, then that is ~6.5 amps, within the rated capacity of the filters.  I guess I would replace the existing 20amp breakers in the panel with 10amp breakers to protect the filters?
 
If I choose to replace the manual switches with UPB, and since I don't need dimming, what switches should I use, the 15amp relay switches?
 
Keep the 20A breakers.
The switches are usually rated for 500-900W, which is well under 20A.

The wire in noise filter will fit in a deep (2 1/8) 4x4 box.

The HLC (UPB) switches can be set to dimming or not dimming via software, so you use the same one.
 
Depends on the UPB manufacturer; Pulseworx and HAI make relays and dimmer switches; Simply Automated only makes dimmers and you set them to not dim other loads.  Given that this is a hangar with fluorescent fixtures I'd probably opt for the actual relay switches just to be safe.
 
The breaker should be for whatever the wiring can handle; just because one branch is only rated for 10 amps (what's behind the filter) doesn't mean the rest of the circuit can't total up to 20 as long as the wiring is appropriate.
 
Update: I installed the filters (SA-ZNF 10A-W)  and HAI UPB relay switches on each bank.  Still have the noise problem.  I can turn them on with the network, but not off.  When they are on, they kill the whole UPB network.
 
The lights are on a 30 foot ceiling, so I took the easy route and mounted the filters on the load side of the UPB relay switches.  There is probably 50 ft of wire between the switches and the first fixture in each bank.  I'm wondering if installing the filters at the first fixture in each bank would be better, in other words, 50 ft away from the switches instead of right next to them.
 
I have other fluorescent fixtures around the house (2 to 4 foot) that cause absolutely no problems.  The fixtures in the hangar are 8 feet long, and they are the only ones that cause any problems.  Not sure why.
 
Paul
 
Are you sure you hooked up the filters correctly?
Mine are in J boxes right nest to the switches, not near the fixtures.

Did you see ANY effect on noise on the meters in UPStart before/after install?
 
You did wire the filters BETWEEN the lights and switches, not before the switches, correct?
 
1) Make sure that the cap is wired downstream from the choke (closer to the lamps).  If the cap is closer to the switch it will present a 2.65 ohm load at 4KHz (.265 Ohms at 40K) and load your UPB signals.
2) Putting the filter closer to the switch is better.  You need the inducance of the wire between the filter and the lamps to increase the filtering effect of the capacitor (reactance).
3) It's possible that your ballasts are spiking the neutral side as well (bad connection or long line).  If 1 & 2 don't pan out you could try a second choke on the neutral side (again on the switch side of the capacitor).
 
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