Is it crazy to build a whole home audio system using a laptop?

dfarrell

New Member
Greetings,
 
First off, there's no way I could even be at this juncture in my life if it were not for this site. I know I'm probably in over my head on this quest but Iv'e read many topics on this site and seen how willing guys are to help a brother out.
 
MY QUEST:
To build a whole house wired audio system using:
1. windows based laptop to stream music
2. sound cards
3. applifiers
4. room volume control for 8 zones
5. In ceiling speakers
6. Remote controlled app that I can use to both operate this audio system and to an Omni Pro II that I just finished installing....thank you...thank you! Omni has basic security and UPB lighting
 
WHY:
Bottom line is cost. I know I can buy the hardware just about anywhere and build the system as my budget dictates. Not charging a dime of this...I promised my wife.
 
MY EXPERIENCE:
Newbie and please try to use industry acronyms to a minimum
 
WHAT:
Recommended hardware and software to get the job done with good sound.
 
Anyone want to take this on or query me on anything I may have left out or am completely missing?
 
Thanks in advance!
 
IdahoAuto
 
 
I do** something similar with Housebot... you can get a plugin for Winamp that will let you direct its output to a specified sound card. I run multiple copies of winamp on my server, each pointing to a different set of outputs on a M-audio multi-output card. I used PCI sound cards (not an option for you with a laptop) and home built amplifiers (don't know about your capabilities there). I use Housebot to control music selections and volume levels, with X-10 RF palm pads if there is a location without a touchscreen.
 
** should say did, as I suffered a full system loss that I am still rebuilding from. :-(
 
I believe JRiver Media Center also allowed for multiple streams to different USB sound cards as well.
 
I find it hard to believe that rolling your own system would be cheaper than just doing the Monoprice multizone receiver these days if you're not looking to go with a full blown Russound system.  Otherwise I think the cost of volume controls and amplifiers would end up costing more than that whole thing.
 
For amplification, any old audio video receiver can be used.
 
This diagram shows the most affordable way to build a distributed audio system:
 
index_clip_image002.jpg

 
Originally posted on the Crutchfield website, it has since been removed, I think because Crutchfield makes less money when people use this design. (Originally a part of this informative page:  http://www.crutchfield.com/S-9CaOWoTueDb/learn/learningcenter/home/multiroom_power.html)
 
In that diagram, the 'speaker selector' is a device that matches impedance between the AVR (audio video receiver) and the speakers.  This device is no longer necessary, as many in-wall volume controls now provide this function.  
 
This will allow you to play whatever source is connected to the AVR through all the zones.  You can use a PC as an input to the AVR.
 
Start checking Craigslist regularly for used AVRs - $50.
 
Using a single AVR to amplify the sound to 8 zones won't give you very loud music, but it will suffice for some years.  Over time, you will upgrade components, e.g. a 2nd AVR to amplify 1-2 zones (using the line-level output of the original AVR), or a multichannel amplifier.
 
Line-level output is a very low power sound output that is used to send un-amplified signals to another component.  Not all AVRs have line-level output.  The sound output from your PC is line-level - that's why we typically use powered desktop speakers for our PCs.  
 
For the first few years I was in my current house, I powered 7 zones with a single AVR.  My in-wall volume controls (VCs) were 20 years old (not impedance matching), so I used a 'speaker selector box' (a misnomer, as you never touch this box - it's not for selecting speakers, it's for impedance matching).
 
Since then, I've removed the VCs and installed keypads (connected by category cable), using a multiroom distributed audio system (Nuvo).
 
If you are running speaker cables to volume controls, you may want to run category cable to the VC locations as well, for future use, if you think you may ever want in-wall keypads. It would be a $100 investment, and save time later.  
 
I would suggest buying speaker cables, category cables, and speakers from Monoprice.  I'm pretty sure they also offer impedance-matching volume controls, though I don't know if they're high quality.  Their speakers are great quality, for the cost.  I have some Monoprice speakers myself.
 
If you use in-wall VCs, your AVR will always be on.  All volume control will be done at the VCs, not the AVR.  So, you don't need a 'networked' AVR (one that can be controlled over wifi/Ethernet).  If your laptop will be your single source, you only need to control the laptop software.
 
I would start out with a single source, playing in all zones - but you may have different needs.
 
Take a look at the Monoprice multiroom audio system that Work2Play linked above, if you want to play multiple audio streams in different zones at once.
 
My "zoned" audio was just that in the 1980's.  I used three receivers back then; one for each floor (and basement) of a two story home.
 
Oh yea and a finished attic; built a custom cabinet for the TV, VCR and receiver #4; overdid it on the sound back then...TV was just a Sony.  Sound was only stereo (did get into laserdisks for a while though).  The VCR was a sort of hybrid JVC made for audio and video.  Purchased it really for school stuff at the time.  The receiver was a Pioneer I think and the speakers were Altec Lansing or Klipsch (don't remember anymore).
 
I did also burn up one volume controller (analog) sometime in the 80's during a party.  Literally flamed up in the wall and I didn't catch it until guests noticed smoke coming for the wall.
 
I used externally mounted speakers at the time.
 
Personally I agree with Neurorad and Work2Play posts above.  I used to purchase much from Crutchfield. (thinking today have some 3 LCD TV's from them from a few years back).  Top notch folks there.  The Monoprice stuff I have purchased in the last few years hasn't given me any issues.
 
IdahoAuto,
 
BTW welcome to the Cocoontech forum!
 
Personally I learned all of that zoned audio stuff from here (Cocoontech and forum users) relating to what Cocoontech members have posted and written in their audio adventures over the years. 
 
You are in a place where folks are just looking to do exactly what you are looking to do and have done the same and written about it here.
 
IdahoAuto,
 
What you described is what I did in my house.  9 zones.  Including speaker purchase (I used "higher" end speakers from Garage sales), USB sound card purchase, cabling (not including the UPB modules for "power on / off", I think it ran me a total of about $300.
My wife, nor I am audiophiles, so to us, this sounds just fine.  We don't need KILLER bass.  Some of my speakers are from Infinity, Bose, etc.  All from Garage sales, all have their own amps, etc.
 
We can chat more in detail if you wish.  You can probably leverage a slew of my software/ideas to help you create your invention.  I actually run mine right on my Home automation server, which gives me the ability to use that to "remote" control each zone.
 
I have in the works a self built 10x9 TRUE MUX that I want to use.  My idea is to build it in such a way that I can actually mux ANY channel to ANY set of channels.  So, 1-10 can much into ANY combination of 1-9.  The 10th zone is the whole house announcement zone.  I had it mostly worked out until I decided that I needed to adjust the time delay of the audio.  Then I had to toss out most of the "cheap" design and create a new idea, where I can do the muxing the way I want, but I want to be able to adjust the time delay - just in case there are zones that can hear each other I want to have some adjustment to try to normalize them all.
 
--Dan
 
I use JRMC - it's easy to assign zones. I haven't tried with a laptop, but I'm sure it could be done using USB.
 
Here's what I do for zone 2 on my Onkyo. I plug chomecast into a HDMI pass thru switch that has an analog audio output. I then plug both the HDMI and analog audio into the "game" input on the back of the Onkyo. I don't play games so game = chromecast. Now if I am watching or listening to chrome cast I get digital in the main room. I always leave zone 2 on and the analog will go to a Jamo MPA-101 amp that feeds a Jamo ZI8 impedance matching speaker block that feeds room volume controls. Now I can fire up music whether the TV is on or not from anywhere in the house with any device. I get all the song and artist info on the device and can even control the volume from the device. For the music the actual source is Google music but even without a subscription the free model allows you to upload your iTunes music to the Google server.
 
One of the neato devices that was created a few years back was the AB8SS.  It was a simple device with analog control of 8 pairs of speakers connected to one box amplified by one amplifier.  The control was X10 or RS-232 or IR of said device.  So if you wanted to you could plug in a laptop to an amplifier and use these boxes for audio distribution without messing up the speakers. 
 
nab8ss.gif

 
http://hacs.com/
 
I still have mine in place.  It was built to last. The next step in the development of said device was a modular rack mounted "stacked" sideways device.  This one let you do the same as the AB8SS but allow for individual volume control of each speaker connected module.  It was called the ESS.  I never knew any of them were ever made. 
 
Expandable (1-31) Speaker Selector switch
Choice of: single, A/B global or A/B individual zone amplifier input
Each zone choice of:
fixed volume level
12 step manual volume control
12 step remote volume control
(Amp protection = autotransformer impedance matching)
 
There is one of each for sale in the next link.  These are made to never break. I was going to purchase the ESS but really do not need it such that I gave up my dibs on it this morning.
 
ESS1-ESS7.jpg
 
http://board.homeseer.com/showthread.php?p=1111720#post1111720
 
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