iTach relay for commercial door opener

Well, there is a big difference between needing a contact closure and an active voltage requirement.
 
Let me ask a question, if you just take a piece of wire and touch it between R1 and R2 contacts on your garage door, can you open and close it with that?
 
If so, can you take a voltage reading between R1 and ground, then R2 and ground (both AC and DC settings) and see what that is?
 
Next, what exactly is the iTach doing?  Does it 'just' provide a set of contacts which (momentarily) open and close, or is it supplying some sort of voltage output?

Hi
Thanks for the reply
 
Connecting R1 & R2 with a wire causes movement in one direction. Doing it again cause the door to move in the opposite direction. This is the intended behavior.
 
I am pretty sure about the 24VAC, schematics attached.
 
The Global Cache iTach is providing open/close only, it does not pass any voltage.
http://www.globalcache.com/products/itach/ip2ccspecs/
Excerp from the page link above
"24V AC/[email protected] N.O. con­tact
Allows for switching of low voltage wiring"

Did you verify the relay output was set to open? It is persistent.

Please re-read my post.  Do you have a multimeter?

Thanks for the reply Frederick
It's easy to see if the iTach relay is open or closed, the green LED is lit when closed.
 
So to clear about my dilemma, when the iTach is open (LED is off) it behaves as closed when I connect the wires from the opener.
 
Although the opener is only 24VAC, I am wondering if it is exceeding the capability of the iTach, forcing a closed condition. Dumb guess?
 
Bart

It behaves the same with any of the relays?
 
The specs say the unit has "transient voltage suppression" - perhaps this feature is leaking enough current to trigger the door opener.
 
Some kinds of transient suppression devices can fail in a way that results in a short.
 
You need a device that can measure the current through the relay connection when the relay is supposed to be open.

And a simple continuity test with the meter between the contacts of the iTach while open/closed just to be absolutely sure it's doing what you think it is.
 
My next guess would be to try adding in a larger capacity relay to see if it's overloading the .5a capability of the onboard relay.  Those onboard relays are usually meant for trigger only - not to carry any real current.

Thanks guys!
I put the multi meter on the iTach, zero resistance when closed, infinite resistance when open - behaves as expected.
 
I would appreciate any online store links for a larger capacity relay that would be compatible with the iTach and the opener.
 
Thanks!

Use the meter to see what the ampacity of the contact on the opener is running unless you can get specs from the manufacturer.

Will do, any store links that come to mind?
thx!

You need to know the voltage, voltage type and ampacity to determine if a small board relay could be used or if you should move up to a RIB.

There is no need for high current relay here.  Those connections only switch power to the coil of another relay that controls the motor.  The problem is likely that the protection components do not have enough headroom for this ~24VAC supply which could have peaks up to 40V at no load.  So it is probably letting through enough current to power the relay coil  Options would be to remove those protection components or use a DC relay in between.

Bartmandude said:

Will do, any store links that come to mind?
thx!

Click to expand...

 
Search Amazon for "elk relay" - ELK makes a number of small units that will work just fine - and the quality is first rate without being expensive.
 
For example:
 
http://www.amazon.com/SPDT-Relay-Board-Single/dp/B002Z8GX92/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397167886&sr=8-2&keywords=elk+relay
 
Just know that you have to provide a source of power that the iTach can switch to control this (or any other) relay.

az1324 said:

There is no need for high current relay here.  Those connections only switch power to the coil of another relay that controls the motor.  The problem is likely that the protection components do not have enough headroom for this ~24VAC supply which could have peaks up to 40V at no load.  So it is probably letting through enough current to power the relay coil  Options would be to remove those protection components or use a DC relay in between.

Click to expand...

Which is why a RIB was suggested and why it was brought up to meter the voltage. No need to remove any protection from the remote or install a DC relay if the circuit is AC. While I like Elk's hardware, sometimes it's just not up to the task.