Suggestions for a *non-metallic*, hinged, flush mounted enclosure?

NeverDie

Senior Member
Something notionally similar to this:
 
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but where both the hinged door, mud-ring, and the rest of the enclosure are all non-metallic.  That's because inside I'll be putting a z-wave RF controller, an 802.15.4 RF controller, and an 802.11ac wi-fi access point with four or more MIMO antennas.
 
I'm unsure as to whether it should be vented or not, but I'm leaning toward a vented door.  Any good reasons not to vent it?
 
For what it's worth, even drywall and wood studs will negatively affect your wifi signal - I am firmly against putting them inside an enclosure.
 
This is the only all plastic enclosure I'm familiar with - it's small though, but it would probably work for the other two devices if you put the access point out in the open where it belongs.
 
For what it's worth, even drywall and wood studs will negatively affect your wifi signal - I am firmly against putting them inside an enclosure.
 
+1 - I have one setup with a Leviton Can stacked below an HAI can.  All RF stuff is externally mounted.  (AP and HAI Wireless stuff).
 
The above noted I do have one RF antenna with the RFID device in the garage in the Rainbird plastic box lid.  
 
It is one of three similiar devices utilized today.  The other two are not in any type of enclosure. 
 
I mostly utilize attic for RF and its worked for me for a few years now. 
 
I do have the Homeseer Z-Troller sitting on the second floor today for optimal use. 
 
Precisely why I disabled the WiFi capability from my router (in my structured wiring can), and purchased a separate [Linksys] router (configured as an AP) and centrally located it.
 
However, my Zwave VRC0P is inside my security can (also Leviton), and I have no issues with connectivity even with the metal cover on.
 
The Primex p2100 would be good enough for one of the locations I'd be installing into.  I tried calling Primex's sales phone number though, and it went into voicemail (usually not  good sign).  I did leave a voicemail, so maybe they'll call back.  Also, I don't see anyone online that's selling it.  Any idea as to where I might purchase it?
 
drvnbysound said:
However, my Zwave VRC0P is inside my security can (also Leviton), and I have no issues with connectivity even with the metal cover on.
 
 In theory shouldn't the all-metal enclosure be a Faraday shield?  I wonder how it is that you're not experiencing issues with z-wave, which is only 1mw tx power to begin with.
 
Work2Play said:
This is the only all plastic enclosure I'm familiar with - it's small though, but it would probably work for the other two devices if you put the access point out in the open where it belongs.
Not ideal since it doesn't have a mud-ring, but I suppose it's a "Plan B" option.  Thanks for the suggestion.  I ordered one just now from Amazon so I can take a closer look at it.
 
However, my Zwave VRC0P is inside my security can
 
Yup here have Leviton ZWave VRCOP adjacent to the HAI panel buried (deliberately) between metal conduit in the basement next to the fuse panel and it works just fine. 
 
I am pushing I guess and the Leviton Z-Wave PIM talks to a few lamp modules today (far away) and it works just fine. 
 
The only watching is to make sure that the lamps go on and go off and they do.
 
NeverDie said:
 In theory shouldn't the all-metal enclosure be a Faraday shield?  I wonder how it is that you're not experiencing issues with z-wave, which is only 1mw tx power to begin with.
 
Pfffttt! Theories... like laws, are made to be broken! You aren't supposed to be able to understand how technology actually works, just the theory behind it.
 
Honestly, I was concerned myself, and had originally planned to make my own cable (due to length) and extend it outside of the enclosure. However, the Leviton documentation reference issues with cables longer than the manufactured length; doesn't much much sense to me since it's just a serial cable, and I'm only talking about ~12ft or so. Nonetheless, I've yet to make my own and extend it, but have just left it installed inside the can... and it works just fine.
 
NeverDie said:
The Primex p2100 would be good enough for one of the locations I'd be installing into.  I tried calling Primex's sales phone number though, and it went into voicemail (usually not  good sign).  I did leave a voicemail, so maybe they'll call back.  Also, I don't see anyone online that's selling it.  Any idea as to where I might purchase it?
 
 
Well, Primex did call me back and gave me the name of a local distributor.  Presently it's not available online, but they said that in two to three weeks they expect to be selling it on Amazon.  I got the impression the P2100 will be priced somewhere in the $50-$100 range.
 
So far only two products has surfaced that may work: the Primex and the Open House.   I suppose I could make some kind of wooden box enclosure for the wall cavity, maybe with a melamine surface, and then put the Leviton piece shown in the OP over that.  That would be option #3.  That might work because the electronics will be low wattage DC powered by PoE.  It would, in effect, be the nearly same as a cabinet.  It might be the ideal solution in one of the locations I'll be mounting this,  which is on an outer wall, and so I could make it shallow depth and use sheet foam insulation behind it to offset the fiberglass insulation I'll be removing from the wall cavity to make room for the recessed enclosure.  So far none of the non-metallic enclosures have come in a shallow depth version.
 
Any other options, or is that about it?
 
Honestly - change your mounting strategy.  wood/melamine will also kill like 50% of your signal.  Even if it works, it's at a severe detriment. 
 
Whenever I mount a can, regardless of brand, I still caulk around the can before painting the wall - the finishing touch just looks 1000x better. 
 
Work2Play said:
Honestly - change your mounting strategy.  wood/melamine will also kill like 50% of your signal.  Even if it works, it's at a severe detriment. 
 
What other strategies are there if the objective is to have it be as invisible as possible?  In some cases I could mount it in the non-conditioned space (such as an attic) outside the stud bays, but then summer heat starts to become a serious issue.  In particular, I don't have much confidence that the z-wave interfaces (four distinct z-trollers in my case) will hold up well under heat.  So, if both in-wall and non-conditioned spaces are eliminated, then that leaves surface mounted (generally ugly) or hiding it in furniture as the only viable options.  In one case I am hiding it on a high shelf out of view, and I'll be leaving that one alone.
 
A common place for RF interfaces is inside a closet, on the wall above the door.  That makes it pretty invisible unless you stick your head inside the closet and look up and backwards.
 
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