retrofitting recessed window sensors

mikefamig

Senior Member
Can someone please help me with some pointers on a procedure to wire and fit recessed flush-fit window sensors? I have installed a few and I'm just not very happy with my work.
 
I am using a Western Union type splice with solder and the problem that I'm having is stuffing the wire down into the 3/8" hole. It's like pushing a car up hill with a rope, the wire bunches up in the hole and the switch is very difficult to get into the hole.
 
I came up with one procedure that helped. I took about a 6" length of bare 14awg solid copper wire and taped it into the wire harness from the base of the switch on downward making the wire stiff enough to push down into the hole but the wrap is a little thick and it's still hard to assemble.
 
Any tips?
 
TIA, Mike.
 
Solid or stranded? Vinyl or wood windows?
 
It takes a little getting used to but it's doable and doesn't requre any other external aids. Usually twisting the pairs makes them stiffer and easier to feed back.
 
I sure hope you're using jacketed cable and not zip cord.
 
DELInstallations said:
Solid or stranded? Vinyl or wood windows?
Solid wire stranded on the sensor leads. I'm using iSOTEC 22/4 CMP cable..
DELInstallations said:
It takes a little getting used to but it's doable and doesn't requre any other external aids. Usually twisting the pairs makes them stiffer and easier to feed back.
 
I sure hope you're using jacketed cable and not zip cord.
What is zip cord?
 
I've been drilling a 1/4" thru hole  and then opening the mouth to accept teh sensor. i think that I'll go up to a 5/16" wire hole.
 
Mike.
 
1/4" is large enough to basically drive a truck through or at least 4/22 easily. You didn't mention solid or stranded.
 
Stagger the splices and then spin the cable to make it more rigid. Twisted pairs make it a lot more rigid to push back through the hole. If you're using zip cord this is going to be a lesson in futility.
 
DELInstallations said:
1/4" is large enough to basically drive a truck through or at least 4/22 easily. You didn't mention solid or stranded.
 
Stagger the splices and then spin the cable to make it more rigid. Twisted pairs make it a lot more rigid to push back through the hole. If you're using zip cord this is going to be a lesson in futility.
I repeat......what is zip cord?
 
Zip cord is two (or more) conductor cable that can be easily peeled apart - like common lamp cord or speaker wire.  Usually, if it has more than 2 conductors, it is called ribbon cable.
 
RAL
 
Thanks I've never heard the term zip cord used for electrical wire before. I think that staggering the splices like DEL suggested will help a lot. Sometimes I overlook the obvious. My problem is with the last two or so inches of the wire where the jacket is stripped from it. I'm also stuffing a few inches of extra cable into the sill so that it will easier to change a switch when necessary.
 
Mike.
 
I typically leave 8-10" or more cable for a service loop on contacts wherever possible.The cable jacket type has little to do with getting the cabling back through the hole. If you've got 2-3 inches of cable jacket stripped and exposed, that is a workmanship issue. If you western union, stagger and then insulate the splices with shrink, the splice point is usually not the flimsy portion. Even after using the shrink, if you need to get the splice to stay put, some #33 or #88 tape (not the CHEAP electrical tapes) will keep the overall splice together enough to be fed through.
 
As I stated, make the splice then spin the cable/leads from the contact into a twisted pair and then feed through the hole.
 
I would've recommended getting screw terminal contacts wherever possible.
 
Del
 
 I did the best I could in chooseing the sensors with no experience to go on. I chose what I did because they came with very small magnets that suit my needs.
 
Do you know of anywhere to get the screw terminal sensors locally in Connecticut? I don't like waiting a week for mail order.
 
Mike.
 
DELInstallations said:
Come take a little drive.
 
Where's the project?
 
Thanks for the offer but I just got in from the garage and I wired a sensor that I'm very happy with. I just needed a push in the right direction. I started by cutting the stranded leads on the sensor very short. One lead is cut down to just enough for a soldered splice and the other only slightly longer. I took your direction to stagger the splices and twist the leads together and when I was done it was strong, neat and slipped into and out f the hole easily.
 
Do you have a shop in the area or work from your home? If I get in trouble I'll surely give you a call but I'm stubborn and like to do it myself.Handling this low voltage bell wire is new to me and I'm learning some new skills.
 
Mike.
 
I'm in the valley.
I have 2 campuses that I have offices at and a few other sites around the state. Also have a garage with way too much accumulated equipment.
 
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