Wiring Cat6 cable directly to switch pros/cons?

F

fleetz

Active Member
Currently planning out a new build for daughter and SIL.

Looking at installing a 24 port gig unmanaged switch into a ELK 28" housing and with what else is going the housing it is quite tight so the only way would be to cable and connect directly to the switch via RJ45 connectors.

I typically would run the Cat6 cable to a patch and then jump from patch to switch with short RJ45 cables.

Just wondering what you guys see as pros and cons. Obviously wiring direct from a performance perspective would give the highest given the signal doesn't have to go through a patch.

All cable would be clearly labelled.

Appreciate your thoughts.

Regards,

Fleetz
 
The change in performance, assuming wiring standards are maintained, are negligable.

The main reason why patches are used in the real world is for MAC's and troubleshooting (keeps IT folk from disturbing field cabling and allows them to easily prove/disprove where the issue is).
 
In the pro world, some customers mandate a patch point for our equipment (cams and access control equipment) while others are direct to the switch. Usually all a patch panel does do is keep the wear/tear on the field cabling to a minimum.
 
Here is my issue of concern.
 
Cat6 can be either solid or stranded. Wiring to RJ45 punch down wall sockets in the rooms and then terminating directly to a RJ45 plug for direct connection to an unmanaged switch.
 
Solid conductors are designed for punch down connectors and stranded for patching cables. I have seen Cat6 plugs which are for solid conductors but a little wary about using them where radial bends are required to address enter to the unmanaged switch.
 
Appreciate hearing good, bad or indifferent experiences using Cat6 solid conductor on RJ45 crimp plugs.
 
I ideally I would like to use a patch with punch downs at either end and then patch to the unmanaged switch but I am struggling to find a 24 port low profile patch that is less than 11.5" width to fit in a structured housing (ELK 28" housing). The depth inside the Elk housing is 4.1" (10.5cm) with the door closed which is why it would need to be low profile as the patch cables need to fit with lid closed.
 
I suppose an alternate way of think would be to use RJ45 wall plate connectors that enable stranded cable connection but not sure they exist? Certainly struggling to find any here in Australia thus far....
 
Appreciate any input...
 
Regards,
 
Fleetz
 
I wired directly to a switch in my unfinished basement by just crimping rj-45's on the cables and plugging directly into the switch and I have no complaints after almost ten years. I have had no reason to touch it in all that time until just recently when I installed my security system and wanted to open up a port on the back of my gateway to dedicate it to the security system.
 
The con is that it is ugly because I left a service loop on each cable so there is a bunch of wire showing. I attached the switch to the wall high up near the ceiling and just coiled up the wire in between joists. If I was working in a finished room I would definitely want to see a patch panel in the wall and have nice neat patch cables .
 
Mike.
 
I've used solid RJ's before (and still do.) As you said, make sure you use the right connector depending on stranded/solid.
In my current setup they are only used for devices behind TV sets (where I stopped using wallplates and went with simple scoops) and the drop connecting my Elk M1 - no tight radius areas. They terminate in the closet at a panel.
 
Personally, I don't understand why people try to cram all of this stuff into a can? It looks pretty when first setup but then becomes an absolute nightmare when you change out that first device! If you really need to have it covered/protected you could always build a simple box out of wood with whatever depth you need and put a hinged cover with a lock on it. Stain it up or paint it to make it look good.
 
The solid crimp connectors work just fine - never had an issue in 15+ years.  That should be the least of your concerns.
 
From a performance standpoint you will not notice a difference either way; even the bend radius you fear is of little concern as long as it's not a hard crimp point right at the RJ45.
 
It comes down to what DEL said - minimizing wear and tear on the field wiring - and keeping things looking cleaner and finished.  It's unlikely you'll need to patch every wire to a switch - many will sit unused.  It looks better having an unconnected port on a patch panel than it does having a wire loop.  Over time you may have to cut/reterminate wires changing the lengths; the other thing is if it's all terminated early on, you ensure that both ends are correctly terminated and never really have to be revisited - (t568a vs. t568b) - the wire is terminated, tested, then unless tampered with, never needs to be looked at again.  In a Pro world this is very important - because when something quits working down the line or a new hookup doesn't work, you need to know who's responsible for it not working and if the customer is paying for the trip, or if the installer is eating the cost.
 
Regarding what patch panels will fit, I'm actually installing a couple of these leviton panels right now in a takeover/cleanup job - they're designed for SMC enclosures and are about as compact as anything I've seen to go inside the panel. 
 
Thanks for the feedback guys really helpful.

Whilst it is not ideal I will go with a direct RJ45 plug termination into the unmanaged switch using solid. I will leave a length of cable probably around a couple of feet up in the ceiling space to allow for a future rework.

Have a little bit of time left before I need to commit so I will continue to look for a compact 24 port punch down patch that I could fit inside the structured ELK housing. Definitely preferred but have a plan B with the direct RJ45 crimp connect.

Have decided to purchase a Platinium EZ Pro HD chrimp tool and use their EZ RJ45 connectors. Seen only good reports on their solution. Their EZ RJ45 crimps are suitable for stranded and solid Cat6.

Regards,

Fleetz
 
Thanks Work2Play....the Leviton 24 port Cat6 patch looks interesting. Will model up tomorrow if I can get all the other bits ( ADSL modem, telco bits) and the Leviton without having to use a shoe horn! (-:

Regards,

Fleetz
 
Long shot but is there mounting compatibility between ELK and Leviton? Is the hole spacing for modules the same?

No big deal there is always a drill...

Regards,

Fleetz
 
Too much is being read into solid/stranded conductors and their plugs at this point.
 
Building horizontal cabling is solid conductor UTP. Period. Patch cables or desk whips are traditionally stranded cabling.
 
The only time issues arise is when the wrong plugs are used on the wrong cabling and conversely when the wrong crimp dies are used on the wrong plugs. Contrary to popular belief, the dies are not universal and are designed for a specific plug and wire combination, so that's when "those that work with wire nuts" or the armchair guys in certain technology positions within a company get themselves into trouble......enough knowledge for some folk is dangerous and easy enough to bury themselves....which is why a larger installation always has the cables installed and certified as an assembly. Same when you look at some of these guys specifying a cat 7 or 7A network installation. It's a larger number, so it MUST perform better, even though none of our hardware and those within spec for the next 10+ years can even come close to using the spec.
 
In the structured and enclosure based world, there are plenty of systems that offer a punch and patch variety...but placing 100 pieces of network gear into an enclosure flush into the wall is not my idea of efficent or a good plan.
 
Cheers DEL.......agree not ideal but as you know some installs you have to make practical compromises that work.

Started at less than 16 ports and looks like 20 ports is it......doabale but not ideal.

Regards,

Fleetz
 
Yup here initially thought that I would only utilize the Leviton 24 port patch panel and a 24 port port switch.  I went to exceeding capacity and just went to a exterior mounted patch panel.  Another house did similar and never went over 16 ports.
 
Personally only issue I have had doing something similar is messing up my crimp job and redoing it shorting the wire a bit.
 
Currently set up is similar to above pictured Leviton mini patch panel.  Wires come in from behind and punch down with patch cables going to the switch right above.  Footprint is about 5-6" tall which I guess is sort of big if you are tight on space.  Here using a 42" Leviton panel.  Its all catXX cable only. 
 
Recently did a swap out of the older tiny 24 port unmanaged switch to a small Gb managed switch which actually runs a bit cooler for me.
 
I do not like the little hood ends as they get in the way for me.  They do look neater though.
 
fleetz said:
Cheers DEL.......agree not ideal but as you know some installs you have to make practical compromises that work.

Started at less than 16 ports and looks like 20 ports is it......doabale but not ideal.

Regards,

Fleetz
Click to expand...
Then at this point, I'd look at getting the hardware out of the enclosure, same with the cabling. Probably would recommend getting a small 3-4U wall mounted rack ear setup that puts the equipment vertical instead of on the horizontal. It'll keep it close enough to the wall but still facilitate the hardware and connections. A couple of mud rings and plates with holes and you should be basically set and as managed as in an enclosure.
 
Enclosures are great for the little things, but for real world applications they aren't practical as a go-to item.
 
Work2Play said:
The solid crimp connectors work just fine - never had an issue in 15+ years.  That should be the least of your concerns.
 
From a performance standpoint you will not notice a difference either way; even the bend radius you fear is of little concern as long as it's not a hard crimp point right at the RJ45.
 
It comes down to what DEL said - minimizing wear and tear on the field wiring - and keeping things looking cleaner and finished.  It's unlikely you'll need to patch every wire to a switch - many will sit unused.  It looks better having an unconnected port on a patch panel than it does having a wire loop.  Over time you may have to cut/reterminate wires changing the lengths; the other thing is if it's all terminated early on, you ensure that both ends are correctly terminated and never really have to be revisited - (t568a vs. t568b) - the wire is terminated, tested, then unless tampered with, never needs to be looked at again.  In a Pro world this is very important - because when something quits working down the line or a new hookup doesn't work, you need to know who's responsible for it not working and if the customer is paying for the trip, or if the installer is eating the cost.
 
Regarding what patch panels will fit, I'm actually installing a couple of these leviton panels right now in a takeover/cleanup job - they're designed for SMC enclosures and are about as compact as anything I've seen to go inside the panel. 
Click to expand...
 
Thanks again for the input.
 
The Leviton 476TM-624 looks very interesting for my application too. The only thing that I need to find out is the actual height.....I suspect that the 2.6" measurement is the actual housing size but the data sheet from Levinton website does confirm this. it show an end profile that includes the mounting spigots and something that protrude from the top.
 
I am in a very tight situation height wise and it would be good to be able to find out the actual height of the housing is. I only have a total of 4.21" (107mm) to play inside the can with so by the time the Cat6 patch cables are connected i will be compromising the radial bend on the cables.I might have to make the cables up without strain relief's to make it all fit? 
 
I was hoping that maybe Leviton's measurements are from bottom of spigot mount and top of whatever is on top protruding (wishful thinking).
 
http://assets.twacomm.com/assets/pdf/37532.pdf  the side profile shows what I am talking about re mounting spigots and top protrusion.
 
Wondering if you might have a unit there that you could measure the height?
 
Regards,
 
Ian
 
Here I use the Leviton modules with the punch downs in the front.  These are around 2" or so high.
 
LevitonCat6.jpg
 
Found this one googling
 
The Legrand one is 1.7" high.
 
Legrand
 
legrandCat6.jpg
 
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