Garage door sensor

I utilize similar here for two conventional residential garage doors.  The ones I utilize have both NC/NO wires.  They have worked fine now some 10 years. 
 
Not sure if I really did need that steel cable stuff as its my residential garage and not a commercial garage.
 
You don't need all the brackets and similar for 90% of the OHD's out there. Usually track mounts are used when the contact must be installed near the bottom of the door and you don't want a forklift to spear it or rip it off the floor. Not a huge issue in residential.
 
Contact installed on header above door, magnet on Z-bracket on OHD. Unless you're worried about door being bowed out of track, then you'd need more contacts installed or a backup form of intrusion detection.
 
If you're going Tane, the equivalent of a MET-44 would work. Personally, I stay away from Tane. Too many bad contacts or failures in the field. Get what you pay for.
 
DELInstallations said:
Contact installed on header above door, magnet on Z-bracket on OHD.
 
Any pictures of this? These were also all I found when I was searching for mine about 2 years ago...
 
So is the door sectional or one piece?
 
The door doesn't need to move away from the wall fast, you'd be amazed at how much room there usually is on an OHD for a magnet.
 
A magnet with a Z or L bracket is all you need like the Tane unit I referenced (assuming you had tane up in your browser) but Amseco makes one as do almost every other manufacturer.
 
I would not use the one you posted from Honeywell, they really only work well on a sectional door like what you see in a strip mall. The magnet/cast portions are a real PITA and give zero adjustment.
 
Interesting - I'm using what looks the same as the OP's original post - but I swear they were labeled GE at the time - I've had 'em on two houses for a good 6 years now and they work well and install pretty easily.  That said, I think if I were doing it again, I'd go with these
 
That said - using these track mount ones down low worked well for me because I used the extra pair of wires that runs to the eye sensor (they ran Cat5 for some reason) - which gets the contact point up to the garage door motor - so I only had to do a single surface-mount wirechannel across the ceiling of the garage to pick up control and sensing of both doors.
 
I've decided an an amseco odc 59a normally open switch mounted on top of the door and with home run wiring to each door. It is interesting that the 59a sensor is almost half the price of the 59b sensor and rated at higher current and voltage. I guess that it's because the 59a is normally open and the 59b is both normally open and normally closed. 
 
Mike.
 
I just put a standard surface mount door contact at the top of the door similar to what BSR posted.  It isn't noted to be "wide gap" but the surface mount contacts typically are rated for 1" gap - about double that of recessed contacts.   I checked how much the door could move and operation seemed to be ok.  Haven't had any issue with it.
 
Its interesting you all mounted them on the top of the garage door. I mounted mine on the floor of the garage and the magnet attached to the door hovers over it. I've run over it with the car, and covered it with garage floor epoxy paint and its been working for year after year.
 
Mouser also has several 2" gap switches without the heavy metal case for much cheaper than the metal cased units.  Should be no need for the metal case in most situations if mounted at the top.
 
For example, the AMS37 for $6.11.
 
The thing I worry about is wind here as it can 'rock' my door, thus the reason for using a 'large area' magnet sensor.
 
I did a ISC West review on one brand that was foolproof if the magnet wiggled near the sensor.  Try searching the portal with ISC West Sensor as the search string (with me as the author)
 
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