Controlling closet door light with door motion

Ira

Active Member
For years, I used this switch...
 
 http://sensing.honeywell.com/product%20page?pr_id=28511
 
...to turn a closet light on/off based on the pocket door opening/closing. My guess is the way I did it isn't up to code. All I did was mount the switch above the door and run the hot wire to the flourescent light fixture thru the switch.
 
Since the walls are now open for a remodel, and things have changed in the 20 years since I did this (and another one in the pantry), I'm looking for a simple, easy, and most of all reliable way to do this by code.
 
I'm fine with using the switch as a dry contact, or run low voltage thru it, or even run the line voltage thru it if it can be done to code.
 
The obvious solution (I think) is to use the switch as a sensor for my Elk M1G, then let the M1G control a UPB or z-wave controller for the flourescent light fixture. However, I would rather have a fallback method so that the light can be turned on/off by a switch if something happens to the primary method. So I could use the M1G to control a UPB (or z-wave) wall switch that controls the light, and if something messes up, just use the light switch to control the light until everything gets back to normal.
 
Problem with the above approach is that I don't currently have and UPB or z-wave or any other type of lighting controls, and except for this light (and soon, the pantry light), lighting automation is not a high priority. Although whatever I do now may get switched out for UPB/z-wave in the future.
 
So are there any wall switches that can be controlled by a simple dry contact (like the microswitch I was using), or a low voltage signal from the M1G, or something else simple? Since the walls are open, I can pretty much accomodate any wiring requirements. Reliability and safety are the two top concerns, way above anything else.
 
Thanks,
Ira
 
Here I just googled dry contact switch for closet light and found this:
 
Closet Light Controller
 
Its just an update to what you had. 
 
You could run a 22/2 wire from the area to the Elk for future lighting automation while you are doing what it is your are doing.
 
Why not do it a simpler way?  Here we have a plunge switch on the pantry and another on the foyer closet to turn the interior light on/off when the door opens/closes.  Conceptually it works like a refrigerator door.  If want to monitor the opening/closing for some reason, then that's different.
 
I am building a house and have recently gone through the evaluation of options on closet lighting.   My architect recommended the plunger switches on the door but I did not really like that because the light stays on if the door is left open.    I considered motion sensors and UPB switches tied to my automation panel, but also abandoned that because of the added complexity and fear of a delay when the light comes on.    I finally ended up with a Lutron motion sensing light switch.   They work great, and at 20 bucks they are very reasonable.   Some times simple is better!   :unsure:
 
If your walls are open, you should be able to install a junction box by the door-- then put the motion switch in the box.
 
Plunger switch would be the suggestion, how it's done 99% of the time here for new builds, but automation would require more hardware and more thought. The PIR switch is also sometimes done but has the side effect of timing out if you're in the closet and not moving. Need to determine how granular control vs. operation is needed.
 
pete_c... Thanks for the link. That's exactly what I'm looking for. Embarrased that I didn't google it first before asking.
 
Didn't want to go motion sensor or UPB route for the reasons stated, although was ready to pull the trigger on UPB if necessary.
 
Didn't want to go plunger for the reason rockinarmadillo said. Wih the switch I have, it's positioned so that the door can be open about an inch and the light will still be off (although if left open wide enough, the light will never go off, which is what rockinarmadillow was trying to protect against).
 
Thanks,
Ira
 
Here I just put regular wireless security sensors on the pantry and hall closet - and for the hall closet, I turned that lightswitch into a scene controller instead that has no buttons for the closet light; when the door opens, the Elk detects it and turns the closet lights on/off.  If the door is left open, it turns off after 10 minutes anyway. This is via UPB. The delays aren't bad at all - by the time the door is open enough to see inside, you see the light ramping up quickly.
 
But if you can run wires and do anything, then of course this is simplest http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-10-Amp-Single-Pole-AC-DC-Push-Button-Door-Switch-GSW-SK/100180864
 
If you go the motion sensor route and you expect to have a lot of on/off's, I recommend using non-fluorescent lights.  I have one of the Lutron's mentioned above in our laundry/mud room, and it's spec'd to handle fluorescent, and it works, and overall we're very happy with it, but I've noticed the bulbs and ballasts don't last very long.  I don't think it's the Lutron's fault.  Rather, I think the frequent on-offs are what's killing them. 
 
Would LED be immune to the reduced lifespan effects, or would its ballast die prematurely also?  Anyone know?
 
pete_c... now I'm even more embarrased that I didn't find the switch you found. It's made by Functional Devices (Relay-In-A-Box guys), and they're one of my go-to manufacturers for a lot of stuff.
 
Turns out they have several similar devices. Here's a link to the one I'm ordering...
 
http://www.functionaldevices.com/lighting-controls/display.php?model=CLC212-D15
 
The feature that makes this one better is that it will turn the light off after 15 minutes if the door is left open (or of course, immediately if the door is closed). They also have a "60 minute" delay version... -D60.
 
 
Regards,
Ira
 
wow - cool... I guess the appeal of that is that you can leave the existing switch in place while removing the high-voltage wires from it?
 
LED seems to be much better for frequent on/offs - I haven't worn one out yet.
 
LED is solid state tech, so I don't think it's affected by on off cycles.
In fact one way to dim LEDs is to send it pulses switching on/off very fast.

The power supply inside an LED may be a bit more susceptible, but probably a lot less than flourescent ballasts.


For walk in closets, I use motion sensors for off only.
I use an IR barrier across the door jamb to turn the lights on.
Pet immune and won't turn on if the closet door is left open and someone walks by without entering the closet.
 
Very nice Ira!
 
One home we have fluorescent lights in closets and one has incandescent.  The old kind of bulbs that you would get for free with your electric company.
 
No closet lighting automation; just light switches on the walls inside of the walk in closets. 
 
Work2Play said:
wow - cool... I guess the appeal of that is that you can leave the existing switch in place while removing the high-voltage wires from it?
 
LED seems to be much better for frequent on/offs - I haven't worn one out yet.
 
I may replace the switch I have with something that is a little more "attractive". Maybe a magnetic switch with the magnet embedded in the door.
 
For me, the appeal is that I don't have to get any other HA systems involved for this simple task, i.e., the simplicity. Except for the delay feature, which I could change out later if we don't like it, this is logically identical to what we've had (and liked) for twenty years, with the added safety/compliance feature.
 
Here the occupancy sensor / automatic lighting stuff is / was low on the WAF; such that its not utilized. 
 
Not automated I installed much EL lighting; very subtle stuff and the low level glow is just right for some of the locations its installed in.
 
We keep the doors open in the master bedroom; well from it to the master bath (hallway / walk in closets) because "we" have run into closed doors in the middle of the night (doors are solid core and you do feel it when you run into them). 
 
I embedded regular wired security (magnetic) switches, embedded into the door jambs for my closet doors. The magnets are in the door edges.

I ran the wires to a double junction box inside the closet, and installed an Insteon triggerlincs, inside one side (LV) of the box, and an outletlinc in the other (HV) side.

Whenever either closet door opens, led rope lighting inside the door frame turns on.
 

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