Duplex Receptacle With Integral Relay

Does anyone know of a regular 110V duplex receptacle that has an integral wired relay? Seems like this should be a common commodity in the wired home world, but all I can find is ones that work off of wirelesss or powerline... ? I don't want to have to make them, just by them.
 

You mean one that has a separate low voltage trigger line coming in that actuates the outlet?  My guess is that something like that would be against the NEC, so would not exist.

What is it you are trying to accomplish?

I don't think you'll find anything like that - at least I've never seen such a thing.  Probably the best you can do is to make your own using a conventional 110V receptacle and a RIB (Relay In a Box) or equivalent. 

They exist. It's called an Insteon outletlinc. I'm sure they exist for other protocols.

http://www.smarthome.com/outletlinc-relay-insteon-2473swh-remote-control-on-off-outlet-non-dimming-white.html

I have several.

elvisimprsntr said:

They exist. It's called an Insteon outletlinc. I'm sure they exist for other protocols. http://www.smarthome.com/outletlinc-relay-insteon-2473swh-remote-control-on-off-outlet-non-dimming-white.html I have several.

Click to expand...

 
If I understand the OP's request, he is looking for a relay that is not controlled by a power line or RF protocol, but has simple relay coil connections.

As far as use, I'd just generally like to start being able to control some of the outlets in my home, say for a plug in lamp. I want the system to be hard wired, and as I mentioned, not controlled via powerline such as insteon etc. I just like the concept of having control wiring rather than using powerline wifi etc. I also don't want to be tied to a specific brand. I should be able to hook any controller up with configurable outputs to then turn on devices without being tied to a type of system. Yes, just looking for a relay built directly into a receptacle. I'd think as far as the wiring goes, so long as the low voltage wiring insulation meets the insulation rating of the high voltage side, putting the low voltage wiring in the same box is fine.
I've seen the RIB before, and I guess that'd be the front runner so far. but isn't as easy as just having the relay built in.

You have to consider if your insurance company will cover property or injury if your Rube Goldberg contraption is determined to be the cause. Best to stick with UL tested and NEC compliant devices.

Yeah I kind of understand the concept of not being tied to a particular brand, but I'm definitely a fan of "Tried and True".  That's why I steered far from Insteon (single-vendor) and went UPB at least.
 
To do what you're talking about would actually be pretty easy during the wiring phase; just run 12/3 to all the receptacles and near the load center, have a bank of RIB's which then connect to the controller of your choice.  
 
I've also seen pictures where I guy used a bunch of automotive relays tied to LV switches around his house feeding through a 66-block to map switches to outlets/fixtures.  That one made a lot of us cringe!

I've never played with Omni-Bus but it sounds like something that would work? 
 
A bit different in that the network runs on LV and manages HV.  That said you could just do an LV to LV relay thing with it.
 
Yeah here today have mostly UPB lighting controls.  That said also have Z-wave, Zigbee and  X-10 plugged into the Leviton HAI OPII panel.
 

 
Popular in domestic commercial operations and a variety of international applications, Omni-Bus controls up to 256 lights, shades, fans, shutters, pumps, and more. Utilizing the worldwide DIN rail standard for mounting, this bus and controller based management family controls CFL, LED, electronic low voltage, Halogen, and incandescent lighting. Modular Omni-Bus components can be located where needed to save wiring and installation costs.
 
Elegant, multi-button programmable wall switches eliminate the expense of in-wall high voltage wiring to multi-way switches. Whereas competing central lighting systems require home runs to a single central cabinet, Omni-Bus power wiring is minimized as controllers can be localized to switches and switches can be programmed to perform a number of actions. Omni-Bus architecture includes low cost splitters and T-connections for ease of installation and expandability. Omni-Bus network can be star, hub and spoke, daisy chain or a combination.
 
How does it work? Power modules feed power to dimming or non-dimming switches. Each wireless or wired switch connects to a DIN rail module. Load Control and other DIN rail modules connect to the Omni-Bus network using standard CAT-5 UTP cable. The Omni-Bus network runs on a low supply voltage (24VDC) and is optically isolated from the mains supply side. Each hardwired switch connects to the Omni-Bus networking using CAT-5. Splitters allow for a free topology architecture. Versatility that's perfect for small businesses, featuring the benefits of central lighting control with the flexibility of distributed control systems.
Omni-Bus features free setup software available online. Each hard-wired or wireless device works in 110/220/240V 50-60Hz markets unless otherwise noted. All modules are CE, FCC, UL (ETL) approved.
 
Leviton HAI Omni-Bus

elvisimprsntr said:

You have to consider if your insurance company will cover property or injury if your Rube Goldberg contraption is determined to be the cause. Best to stick with UL tested and NEC compliant devices.

Click to expand...

Tons of variations of ways to accomplish this and be compliant. The issue is specifically a direct, drop in/bolt in unit, which does not exist without a second technology. If the loads were centralized or other considerations were  followed, it's a non-issue...it's how the big buildings tie lighting and other controls into the BAS.
 
Others: It is NOT against the NEC to introduce LV and HV into the same enclosure for specific purposes of connection and/or control, but there are rules in how to do this and be compliant, and it doesn't always require a box divider or other similar configuration.

It is not something to be considered lightly.  You need to consider what are the possibilities of a high voltage wire or terminal touching a low voltage one.  And I don't just mean if they are touching when you install them.  What happens if a wire comes loose?    What happens with expansion and contraction?  What happens when another person opens the box and pulls the switch out?
 
These are the underlying things the NEC rules are trying to protect people from.  The spirit of the code.  It is easiest/safest to keep them as separate as possible with a barrier if you can.  

Wuench,
 
Not to get into a p*ssing match with you, but the code does not forbid LV and HV in the same box for the specific purpose of connection of intermixed systems of differing voltages and wiring methods. What you mentioned about cabling coming loose and expansion/contraction is really tied more to workmanship over a code item.
 
There are requirements for how to do this and wiring methods, however there is no requirement to always install a barrier or to separate the systems. If that were the case, 99% of the buildings with BAS would not be compliant, nor would fire alarms or other intermingled voltage systems. Heck, look at the larger power supplies and systems....there are plenty of places where LV and HV are intermingled, albeit separated and compliant by other rules. The prime example is FACP's, NAC's and plenty of access panels or larger burg panels with hardwired transformers in the enclosure or can...they are separated from the LV cabling by a barrier, but in the specific instance the systems and cabling must be intermingled for the sole purpose of connection, it takes place either out in the open or in a divided section with the HV.
 
For a novice, it's boilerplate advice to suggest the separation, but it's not the gospel.