Question on sensors for vinyl windows

Rush85

New Member
Looking for some advice on which sensors to install for Anderson 3000 series double hung vinyl windows.  Construction on the house has just begun and I am about 2 months out on wiring my security system.   Trying to finalize my plans.
 
I was originally looking at using recessed magnetic sensors (Honeywell PRO51BTM-WH specifically), but I've read other threads online discussing the warranty implications of drilling into the window.  Hoping for some advice or guidance on the practicality of installing recessed sensors into a vinyl frame.  Am I just better off going with non-recessed sensors?
 
Thanks for your time.
 
I believe most manufacturers are OK with installing security contacts in the frames.
The warranty issues come if the edges/frames of the glass panels get drilled into allowing the insulating gas to escape.
 
I'm also looking for solutions.  Need new windows, have existing cables run and plunger contacts installed.
 
Desert_AIP said:
I believe most manufacturers are OK with installing security contacts in the frames.
The warranty issues come if the edges/frames of the glass panels get drilled into allowing the insulating gas to escape.
Not true, but the end user can do as they wish...depending on how much of a chance they wish to take with warranty coverage unless they get an ironclad statement from the manu.
 
The big item is the majority (barring the all vinyl extrusion types) of manufacturers will void the warranty on the portion affected of the window by the installation, but some will void the warranty in the entirety if any portion of the window was modified from "factory". In Andersen's case, they void the warranty on the sill if that is the only portion affected. If you install magnets using screws or anything other than an adhesive, then they will void on the corresponding part, up to and including the sash and thermaseal assembly.
 
Structural vinyl manufacturers and windows vary widely.
 
DELInstallations said:
Not true, but the end user can do as they wish...depending on how much of a chance they wish to take with warranty coverage unless they get an ironclad statement from the manu.
 
The big item is the majority (barring the all vinyl extrusion types) of manufacturers will void the warranty on the portion affected of the window by the installation, but some will void the warranty in the entirety if any portion of the window was modified from "factory". In Andersen's case, they void the warranty on the sill if that is the only portion affected. If you install magnets using screws or anything other than an adhesive, then they will void on the corresponding part, up to and including the sash and thermaseal assembly.
 
Structural vinyl manufacturers and windows vary widely.
 
Thanks for the information.  There is a lot conflicting information about warranties and installing sensors into vinyl windows.
 
I'd prefer to do a recessed magnetic sensor, but unfortunately it looks like I will go with an adhesive surface mountable sensor to avoid issues with warranty. 
 
Without armchair quarterbacking, a lot of misinformation is spread by those that don't deal with these issues on a daily basis.
 
For a specific manufacturer, you need to contact them and specifically state how and where you are drilling and what is being installed. I've dealt with Pella, Andersen, Marvin, Integrity, Weathershield, and almost every other manufacturer out there. They vary widely from only voiding the warranty on the structural portion drilled (and any subsequent leakage that may occur) all the way up to voiding the entire unit's warranty as the unit was modified (even if the contact did NOT cause a issue; IE: thermal seal failed but sash not drilled). There are also manufacturers that offer OEM installed contacts or devices (Andersen and Marvin come to mind) but that's generally out of the realm of most HO's.
 
If you're in doubt, contact the specific manufacturer of your windows and explicitly discuss your plans to install recessed contacts. If they say no issue, then ask them to send the same information to you via their letterhead or similar electronic equivalent. If you don't feel comfortable or can't get an iron clad answer, you know what the choices and repercussions are. 
 
I don't know if this helps but I drilled into the wood sashes and sills on my double-hung windows.  The holes sit beyond the water seals and there has been zero water penetration to date.  I didn't want exposed wire or sensors for "historic" reasons.  I'm pleased with the results.
 
Once you get the nerve to drill the 1st one they go pretty smoothly.  Not sure if the pictures will post.
 
 
 file:///Users/macbookpro13/Pictures/iPhoto%20Library.photolibrary/Masters/2014/10/12/20141012-160150/IMG_2588.jpgfile:///Users/macbookpro13/Pictures/iPhoto%20Library.photolibrary/Masters/2014/10/12/20141012-160150/IMG_2592.jpg
 
Guess not...
 
Depends on the manufacturer and how they're integrated.
 
The OEM Andersen wireless ones are pretty good, they can report a TON of status and actionable items such as position and lock status (more than most systems can handle) but the battery trays are the weak link and I suggest that people order a few spares and keep a couple of each installed variation as system spares on hand, as with anything, it is unknown how long they're going to remain in production and as a service part.
 
For hardwired, the big guys use a OEM contact made by Flair that is mounted on a SS plate, essentially a surface contact with corresponding component installed within the window, while others use more standard flanged affairs.
 
Usually the issue is not the quality but the installation of the window units themselves.
 
The larger issue with the Andersen units is the lower end panels or Honeywell panels don't have enough intelligence to really get all the signals and report appropriately based on locked/unlocked status vs. sash position and with a panel like the M1, it's very easy to max out if you have any sort of inputs really installed on top of the wireless, so then it becomes a necessity to cascade a couple of M1's.
 
Thanks so much, DEL. I'm really looking at windows with wired contacts. Any standouts that you've seen?

Yeah, I understand the window and alarm installers have key roles.

Trying to avoid surface mount, if possible. Stainless steel (SS?) doesn't sound too appealing.
 
flush, powdercoated on a sill looks fine. 2 screws and then it seals and there's a small plate. Really not bad looking, but not something I'd want to service regularly.
 
In the case of ultra-custom windows, like those made out of fruit woods or even teak (I have done a lot of work on the "gold coast" of the state) then there's just as many ways to do them and the warranty is usually a non-issue with the end user.
 
I've dealt with a custom group that cut a veneer plug to sit on top of a small countersink in their wood windows, basically I think they stuck their windows in a Bridgeport machine and milled to exact sizes before they were assembled. Trying to remember the wood, might have been teak.
 
Personally, I'd rather get a conformal or non-conformal statement from the manufacturer for most typical building projects. If having a warranty with recessed contacts is paramount, there's plenty of manufacturers that would honor that field modification....if you're building a house or retrofitting, it's no different than specifying traditional outlets or decora and white vs. ivory. From what I remember, the "OEM" installed units were significantly more expensive and I've only seen them 2-3 times in 20 years.....and only in the case where the windows were literally in the Atlantic and even hermetically sealed contacts would rot out in a few years.
 
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