RS-485 splicing

Too much work and complexity for a problem that normally wouldn't exist for most.
 
Usually running enough conductors and using caps is fine in 99% of the systems I've put in, or the 485 branches end up landing on surge protection (Ditek) for multi-building situations, surged on both ends and then I normally run a branch for the house and one for the detached building(s).
 
drvnbysound said:
I use the DBH, so no splicing needed.
 
For keypads, I solder the Cat5 wiring to the keypad pigtail.
 
I used a gel filled cat6 cable in the buried conduit between my two buildings and indoor CMR type cable inside so the two cables are spliced together where the cable enters the house. I initially used crimp splices which gave me trouble and they are soldered now. I just think that the db-9 connector would be great especially if it had a metal jacket as a shield. The fact that they ae solderless is nice for hard to get to places too.
 
Mike.
 
DELInstallations said:
Too much work and complexity for a problem that normally wouldn't exist for most.
 
Usually running enough conductors and using caps is fine in 99% of the systems I've put in, or the 485 branches end up landing on surge protection (Ditek) for multi-building situations, surged on both ends and then I normally run a branch for the house and one for the detached building(s).
 
Can you show me a link to an example of this DITEK surge protection that the cable landed on? It sounds like just what I needed in the first place. And by "caps" do you mean twist on wire nuts?
 
Mike.
 
I can see where the DB9 connectors are convenient if you need to connect and disconnect the cables frequently.  But by using them, you created 3 potential points of failure where would have had just one, had you simply spliced the wires.
 
You have 2 screw terminals that could come loose, plus the DB9-pin-to-DB9-pin connection point. 
 
RAL said:
I can see where the DB9 connectors are convenient if you need to connect and disconnect the cables frequently.  But by using them, you created 3 potential points of failure where would have had just one, had you simply spliced the wires.
 
You have 2 screw terminals that could come loose, plus the DB9-pin-to-DB9-pin connection point. 
Good point.
 
I made a dumb beginner mistake and put my splices inside of one of these on the outside of the house.
 
http://www.lowes.com/pd_73008-1716-L5133669_0__?productId=3276647&Ntt=cantex+conduit&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dcantex%2Bconduit%26page%3D2&facetInfo=
 
It seemed like a good idea at the time. There is one cat6 for the Elk, 1 cat6 for iptv and one 16/4 for power and speaker. I may have enough cable on the garage end to pull enough back at the house and get the splices inside but it is running fine now and I'll leave it unless I have trouble again.
 
Live and learn.
 
Mike.
 
Neurorad said:
I've been using the Wago Lever Nuts for speaker cable connections. Nearly idiot proof, but not as good as soldered. The single trick is to strip the right amount of insulation to avoid insulation within the clamped connection.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31GCg7lrH3L.jpg

1 connector per splice.
 
Thanks I've never seen those before and they look like they are very easy to use but I don't like them for the rs-485. I used 3M scotchlok crimp connectors and had trouble with the connections.
 
http://www.amazon.com/UR2-3M-Scotchlok-Butt-Connector-Pack/dp/B0076AY1PC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419169014&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+connectors
 
I think that in the future I'll stick to solder, screw terminal or twisted splice and wire nut.
 
Mike.
 
mikefamig said:
I used a gel filled cat6 cable in the buried conduit between my two buildings and indoor CMR type cable inside so the two cables are spliced together where the cable enters the house. I initially used crimp splices which gave me trouble and they are soldered now. I just think that the db-9 connector would be great especially if it had a metal jacket as a shield. The fact that they ae solderless is nice for hard to get to places too.
 
Mike.
 
Once I get the time to finish some trenching I'll be doing the same between my home and my detached garage . The house side will be plugged into the DBH and the workshop side will be landing in the P212S terminals for the data bus.
 
drvnbysound said:
Once I get the time to finish some trenching I'll be doing the same between my home and my detached garage . The house side will be plugged into the DBH and the workshop side will be landing in the P212S terminals for the data bus.
 
My problem with doing the same is that the M1 control in the house is on the opposite end of the house from where the cable enters the building and I didn't want that  direct bury gel filled cable in the house.
 
Mike.
 
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