Pre-Wire Drill & Bit Recommendations

ccmichaelson

Active Member
I'm just about to start pre-wiring my new construction (CAT6, RG6, 22/4, 14/2, etc.).  I own a brand new cordless Dewalt drill kit:  20v regular, 20v impact, and 20v right angle drill.  
 
I know most people use corded drills but anyone out there using 20v cordless to do a whole home project (it's my own home otherwise I would by a corded drill).
 
Also, I've read that auger bits are the best for drilling holes through studs.  What are the most common size bits?  I plan to run 3 CAT6 + 1 RG6 to each TV location which would be my biggest cable run.  Any idea what size that would require?  About about a bit size for running 14/2 speaker wire or 22/4 burglar alarm wire?
 
Thanks!
 
Sizes needed will vary, get a set of Irwin Speedbor auger bits. Irwin also makes some good ship auger bits for going through more than one stud. But you may need a corded drill to have enough horsepower, cordless won't do that. There are also some 1/4" drive extensions that will help get the head of the drill into a short stud width and then extend the length of the shank. This was helpful getting under some windows that had complex stud framing around them.

Avoid nails as they'll ruin auger bits. I also found it handy to use a hand file to freshen up they edge as they dulled. Irwin's naileater bits ARE better for this and possibly worth it. My framers love their mail guns, so I went with these bits.

Hole saw bits will not do the job anywhere near as effectively as auger or even forstner bits. Do not waste your time with holes saws for this.

Take care that bits can bind up and suddenly twist the drill hard enough to break your wrist. Always expect it to bind and that way you won't get hurt.

Nothing does the job quite as effectively as a $400 Milwaukee professional 1hp corded right angle drill. Those things are incredible for this kind of work. Pricey, though, even I couldn't justify shelling out for one.
 
Also, make sure to go back and cover any other through passages with nail plates. Otherwise drywall screws will run the risk of ripping up your cables.
 
wkearney99 said:
Hole saw bits will not do the job anywhere near as effectively as auger or even forstner bits. Do not waste your time with holes saws for this.

Take care that bits can bind up and suddenly twist the drill hard enough to break your wrist. Always expect it to bind and that way you won't get hurt.

Nothing does the job quite as effectively as a $400 Milwaukee professional 1hp corded right angle drill. Those things are incredible for this kind of work. Pricey, though, even I couldn't justify shelling out for one.
 
I beg to differ. Hilti SFH 18-A (https://www.hilti.ca/cordless-systems/drills%2c-impact-drivers-%26-wrenches/r4177). Used this for drilling through double and triple floor joists, and works like a dream. Also has a sensor that prevents the drill from rotating when the bit jams up and breaking your wrist.
 
What are the most common size bits?
 
Personally here have a variety of bit sizes purchased over time per DIY project sometimes.
 
Today do have both an electric / battery operated drill and still use them both. 
 
I do have very old drills and a few new ones.   I am not though promoting any certain brand here. 
 
Also has a sensor that prevents the drill from rotating when the bit jams up and breaking your wrist.
 
I have almost done that a few times; not a pleasant feeling.
 
Here in my outdoor LV lighting stuff I utilized 6X6 cedar posts here and there.  I put LV lamps on the tops of the 6X6 posts and did drill maybe 5 feet in the center of the posts to run my LV lighting wires.
 
Well, given he posted that he'd already bought the DeWalt 20v setup it seemed reasonable to offer they're not likely to be suitable for multiple studs.  Not for more than 3/4" holes through a single stud.  Having used the same kind of gear when doing my house, it was necessary to bring out a corded drill when anything more than a single stud was involved.
 
For $600... that ought to do the job and then some.  But then you're on the course of being committed to yet another battery form-factor.
 
wkearney99 said:
Well, given he posted that he'd already bought the DeWalt 20v setup it seemed reasonable to offer they're not likely to be suitable for multiple studs.  Not for more than 3/4" holes through a single stud.  Having used the same kind of gear when doing my house, it was necessary to bring out a corded drill when anything more than a single stud was involved.
 
For $600... that ought to do the job and then some.  But then you're on the course of being committed to yet another battery form-factor.
 
Yeah Hilti stuff is definitely not cheap, and generally not for your average homeowner (they're geared towards professionals that make money with their tools). That being said, that unit is also a hammer drill (and a very good one that that - would put your average Home Depot corded tool to shame), so it's one drill to rule them all so to speak.
 
They also have a compact hon-hammer unit (SFC 18-A) which is around $400. Also note they include 2 batteries (most tools don't) so factor that into the cost when making the comparison.
 
I used a Makita LXT cordless drill when installing my system.   It handled everything I could throw at it.   It has two speeds.   The low speed develops a lot of torque for the auger bits, and it is easier to control when it inevitably hits a nail.     I had no problem with drilling double studs with up to a 1 inch bit.
 
Nails ate up my auger bits.   You will want to have some extras.   The nail eater bits do seem to last longer but the nails will eventually eat them too.
 
I used a dewalt corded drill on my hole saw because it had a safety override that shut down when it jammed up.   I would not use a hole saw if doing it over again.   I saw the plumbers using some large diameter auger type bits that worked a lot better.   I bought one and it worked great with my corded dewalt drill.   However, those still will jam when you hit nails.  
 
I've drilled multiple 1-1/8" holes (and smaller) through both studs of a top plate with an 18V cordless hammer drill (not using the hammer function).
 
I bought a bunch of bits (3/8" LONG, 1/2" LONG, 5/8", 3/4", 1", 1-1/8") about a year ago when I saw that Home Depot had an end cap of all sorts of bits marked 50% off...
 
I have the same Hilti hammerdrill and it's...well, a Hilti. As far as cordless goes, it's no different than the Dewalt or others I have or have owned, but it's real shining point is concrete.
 
I'm not a fan of the clutch as mentioned....it always kicks out when using a bit or hole saw and any sort of vibration kicks in. That said, I think I was in the sub $300 range when I bought ($279?) plus a $50 credit when Depot still offered Hilti in the aisles.
 
That said, with the OP's tool list, I'd stay away from auger bits, they require a high HP drill to really operate in wet lumber, and a little less in dry. They'd be good if you wanted to see how long your drill lasts before the trigger, brushes or battery burn up....My Dewalt 18 lasted 3 holes before it smoked using a 3/4" X 18 auger. (stupid to even try, but the site had no power).
 
I'd look into the paddle bit variety for roughing in. As long as you're "flat" with your drilling, which is a huge key to pull cable through studs, it's not too bad and you shouldn't hurt your tools.

A bellhanger should really be used sparingly.
 
When you're drilling a lot of holes the paddle bits are a chore.  Much slower to make the holes and often get duller, faster.  I was impressed how much faster the work went using auger bits and a corded drill.
 
Yep, nails are a problem.  The naileater bits made it less of one, as I could get a few more holes done before resharpening.  A plain one would dull almost immediately.  
 
Wow you guys are all over the place...  I am not an installer - just a home owner with a house under construction and I was hoping to use my brand new 20v dewalt cordless drills (regular, impact, & right-angle) to pre-wire my house (security, speakers, CAT6).  There are a few places where I need to go through several stud packs (3-5).  At each TV location I'll need to run 3 CAT6 and 1 RG6 - not sure what diameter of hole that would require.
 
At the end of the day, if I need to purchase a corded drill at least I'm saving myself a TON of cash versus paying some A/V company to pull the wire.
 
Get a few 3/4" Irwin speedbores and an 18" extension. This will get your drill past the next joist, help keep a low angle for the drilled hole, your face out of the wood chips and make it easier to get some push behind the bit..
 
Forget the right angle drill except for really tough locations. They are hard to get enough pressure to make it fast. Not enough pressure will make your bits overheat and lose their temper and dull quickly.
 
LarrylLix said:
Get a few 3/4" Irwin speedbores and an 18" extension. This will get your drill past the next joist, help keep a low angle for the drilled hole, your face out of the wood chips and make it easier to get some push behind the bit..
 
Forget the right angle drill except for really tough locations. They are hard to get enough pressure to make it fast. Not enough pressure will make your bits overheat and lose their temper and dull quickly.
 
I just purchased these kits:
I guess I need to get either an extension and/or longer drill bits for the studs where there are 1-2, then a small open cavity, followed by more studs.
 
Those look pretty fancy. I would just get 3 or 4 of these in 7/8". A 7/8" hole will take three 14/2 cables if needed. Every time I drill smaller I regret it down the line once I add some other cable to the hole. Make sure you drill away from the edge and leave  more than 1.5" of wood (thickness of lumber) to follow building code. and not weaken the support of the flooring joist.
 
Code:
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-341008-Speedbor-8-Piece/dp/B0000EI9B0/ref=pd_sim_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0K85DF2H4FCBSGPCT5VJ
 
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