Where To Run LV Wires In Attic Space (New Construction)

I'm currently pre-wiring my new house under construction and in the attic where do you recommend I place/lay the LV wires?  Is it okay to run my LV wires just on top of the truss/beams or should I staple them higher up in the attic?  Here's a photo of my house:
 
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:883]
 

I suggest you wait until the electricians are done with their work... then you'll get a good idea, and this will ensure that nothing you do will be in their way.
 
Here's an example of how it's going to end up though:

As a side note, how do I go about installing a 3/8" tane door contact when the center of the door jamb sticks out past the stud packs?  Here's a photo
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:882]
 
Here's a link to photo in dropbox:  https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/45585119/door.JPG

ccmichaelson said:

As a side note, how do I go about installing a 3/8" tane door contact when the center of the door jamb sticks out past the stud packs?  Here's a photo
 
 
Here's a link to photo in dropbox:  https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/45585119/door.JPG

Click to expand...

 
I just responded to the question in your other thread...

Put your signal wires up high where they won't get stepped on. Electricians and safety code allow wiring to be mounted on the side of lumber so that feet won't step  on and damage wiring. This is a good practice too unless you think you may want to move something later. Signal wire is cheap nd extra length is always a good idea just in case.
 
Run a few pipes say 2", 2 x 3/4" & 2 x 1/2  pipe from basement to attic above the insulation level. Make sure they can't slide down below the top lumber/stud plate. Who knows what you forgot or will want to add later....lights, thermo sensor, attic fan, water on the roof, attic water heater?

Use j-hooks to keep cables off the floor. Don't use D-rings, hard to pull through.

Pipes and conduit chases may not be permissible in all locales. Some AHJ's allow them, some do not. Some require the pipes terminate in a box, others allow packing with fire rated caulk/sealant or similar.
 
You can place wiring through the trusses, but generally the better practice is to bundle them/run a common raceway with all and then securing them some way.
 
Drive rings are easy enough to pull through but not recommended for data cabling.
 
D-rings are as easy to pull through as J-hooks. You just need to pay attention to the layout.

Hehe, my metal 2" D-rings, designed for conduit, scrape the jackets fairy aggressively. Easier to unscrew the D-ring, and slip the cable in.

I'll switch to J-hooks, for new runs. Designed for cables, they lack sharp edges.

Here too post construction went to j-hooks in the attic; well high up but accessible...~ 6 feet not highest points of ~ 8-9 feet...personally in the new contruction pulled all of the cables to their spots and waited until the house was completed to terminate anything...punch panels et al. 
 
Alarm LV cabling wasn't connected to anything until some 2 years later...it took only 2 - 3 days to install my OPII panel and terminate all of the cables...same with Lighting automation, HVAC, et al...never really a rush and I enjoyed taking my time..

Neurorad said:

Hehe, my metal 2" D-rings, designed for conduit, scrape the jackets fairy aggressively. Easier to unscrew the D-ring, and slip the cable in.

I'll switch to J-hooks, for new runs. Designed for cables, they lack sharp edges.

Click to expand...

Conduit straps? they are NOT intended for supporting cabling..they are for supporting conduit, both the single hole and two hole varieties. They are not D-rings.
 
D rings are: http://comcables.convergencecms.co/templates/cartproduct/1234/D-rings-4.jpg
 
Drive rings are: http://images1.cableorganizer.com/arlington-industries/drive-rings/images/02_drive-ring-sizes.jpg

Perhaps an odd question relating to actually doing the install....I too have new construction and will be doing some wiring, my house is 1 story, but the ceilings are about 10'-12' on average (some higher).  Do you actually climb up and walk around on the cross members and such or do you just use a ladder and keep moving it as you work your way around the house?
 
Thanks

Personal preference really. Some would see walking on joists as faster while others may see using a ladder to be safer and just as fast. Usually planning out the runs first and then coming up with a central chase limits "reworking" the same areas and then you pull by them and get a rough length for all your cables back to the central chase, then dress all the wires at that spot at the same time.
 
Only variation would be if this was not practicable or the sheer volume of cable prohibits such.....I've done literal mansions with 3-4 bundles the size of your forearm and had to break the cable dressing accordingly.

I'm just about to finish pre-wiring my own home (I'm the OP on this thread) and I can tell you that DEL's comments (planning your runs) is probably more critical than how you actually pull the wires.  That said, I've spent roughly 2 weeks (most days) pulling CAT6, burglar alarm wire for doors/windows/motions in every room and nook/cranny, and whole home audio speaker wire everywhere.  I need to look at the total linear feet I purchased but it's a LOT for a 5,500 square foot home (rambler with walk-out basement).
 
My biggest issue was battling the electrician and trying to keep with HV wires away from my stuff.  My building wants to insulate/sheetrock soon so I started while the electrician was still going (not to mention he would show up a few hours each day) and he would always run his wires parallel to mine (if convenient for him), run his romex down the same holes, etc...  I can't tell you how many times I had to move my stuff or at times I pulled out his romex wire and re-routed it myself.  
 
My house has vaulted ceilings (10' to 15' high) and since the electrician always left his tall ladder I just used it to pull the wire up and over each joist.  I'm almost done but I can now certainly appreciate those that do this full time!

drvnbysound said:

I suggest you wait until the electricians are done with their work... then you'll get a good idea, and this will ensure that nothing you do will be in their way.
 
Here's an example of how it's going to end up though:

Click to expand...

Eeeeeeewwwww - that would drive me nuts!

That would never pass inspection in Canada.
 
The unprotected wiring runs would get damaged by the insulation crew, blowing  in attic insulation, stepping on wiring on top of the truss rafter joists.  Once it all gets buried under insulation the problem gets worse.