Audio Wire "Hub" - Do They Exist?

I just finished pre-wiring my home and I'm perplexed how to handle a specific situation.  I home ran all wires into a central closet and I have several pairs of in-ceiling speakers that I'd like to dual purpose.  For example, when watching TV these speakers need to be connected to my A/V receiver.  However, when not in TV mode these speakers need to be connected to my Sonos AMP Connect for whole home audio.  I don't want to run downstairs and unplug/plug-in speakers between the A/V receiver and Sonos unit.  
 
Do they make a device that would allow me to wire these types of speakers to it such that audio would work regardless if the audio was sent from my A/V receiver or Sonos unit?  BTW - I'd never have both of them on at the same time.
 
Thank a million!

Here ran 16/2's to 16/4's in a local box then 16/4's to the closet along with one cat5e many years ago. 
 
Also installed speakers in the hallways.
 
BTW did play / install those in ceiling tile speakers for a couple of commercial things.  I guess they sounded OK for the type needed for backround music.  What was nice is that you do not really see them.  I wouldn't really use them for a home audio thing though.  There is an automation "store" locally that sells a home audio in the celing thing that looks and blends in to the drywall so you do not notice it at all.
 
The PVC cabled speaker wire was much more expensive than the cat5e cable at the time and here only purchased in bulk spools of 1000 feet.
 
I did here and there go with in wall versus ceiling speakers mostly cuz I purchased all of the same model and mfg. and while I could access the ceilings on the second floor; I could not do this easily to the main floor.  Speaker installation was via attic down to second floor and basement up to main floor with one chase from the basement to the attic done post construction.  On a new construction thing just ran the wires for in wall speakers cuz I had them already (purchased a few cases).
 
Started here originally with the Leviton Chopin set up; then went to Russound zoned amps.
 
I do not touch these much anymore as I have no reason to. (IE: whole house stuff is in the closet).
 
The cat5e goes to a dedicated for Russound "audio" patch panel and the 16/4's wires just go to the amps.  Each double pair goes to a pluggable terminal that plugs in to the back of the zoned amp. 
 
These wires go to the Russound zoned audio amps.  I can play the audio out from the AVR in the family room to one Russound zone and do this for whenever.
 
Really too you can purchase a blank keystone patch panel and just purchase a keystone speaker post for each opening.  I use double small keystone jacks for the garage external speakers and AVR stuff in the family room. They speaker posts / terminals are spring types or screw in types and not really plug in types.
 
They also sell these all with speaker single speaker terminals all built in.
 
I built sub zones except for the family room multimedia where the 7.1 surround stuff is just wired to the AVR.
 
On the second floor built subzones in each room.  It is very simple.  The rooms have AVRs/TVs.
 
There is a second keypad next the cat5e connected Russound keypad and its just a mechanical AB switch that switches the audio to speakers from the zoned amp to the local AVR.  Another 16/4 wire goes to the AB switch to a wall plate near the AVR in the room (which is close to TV/AVR).  It was just up the wall to the attic and down another wall in the room.  Attic here is large and easy to walk around in.  (IE : built a cat walk and put in much lighting just for this LV stuff).
 
Relating to the master bedroom / bath I put in an A / B and both AB and an AB switch.  A/B does the zoned or local AVR.  A/B and AB does either the master bedroom or the master bathroom or both.  There is also more speakers but not connected to the zoned house amps. 
 
The switches are very mechanical and sort of bulky behind the wall plate (well constructed) and has worked like this just fine for years. 
 
Media is redundant a bit as I do local media via a touch screen with a direct connect or remotely control via a touchscreen media directly plugged in to the zone amps and I one liner internet radio channel scripts on buttons on the touchscreens which work fine. 

I believe that the Russound AB 3.2 would work.    I have not hooked up my system yet, but this is what I am planning to use for mine.

Don't the Sonos units have the ability to pass audio?   As in, feed the audio into the Sonos and let it handle the switching.  Trouble is you'd be limited to the amplification provided by the Sonos.
 
Or, feed the output from a Sonos (they make a model without it's own amp) into the receiver and use that.  

I haven't decided 100% of the sonos system...  but my wife struggles with anything remotely difficult and the sonos app has to be the easiest I've seen to navigate.  
 
Going back to my initial question which hasn't been answered (or at least I don't believe so), let me give you one specific scenario.  In my living room I have 4 in-ceiling speakers (two on each side of a vaulted ceiling).  Two of the speakers need to be my rear surround when the TV and A/V receiver are turned on.  However, other times my wife will be streaming pandora throughout the house (or on the 4 speaker living room zone) so I want to dual-purpose those speakers so that audio plays via the A/V receiver or Sonos/Russound/HTD Lync system.

In my living room I have 4 in-ceiling speakers (two on each side of a vaulted ceiling).  Two of the speakers need to be my rear surround when the TV and A/V receiver are turned on.  However, other times my wife will be streaming pandora throughout the house (or on the 4 speaker living room zone) so I want to dual-purpose those speakers so that audio plays via the A/V receiver or Sonos/Russound/HTD Lync system.
 
This is where the AB switch or two AB switches comes in or maybe just run the Sonos audio output (splitting it) via a cat5 balun to the AVR so all she would have to do is switch the AVR to the Sonos audio.  Initially here did run shielded microphone cable for line level audio from the com closet to the 2nd floor.  I then switched for cat5 baluns for this and it worked better and wasn't at all noisy.
 
Here master bedroom has vaulted ceiling and two rear speakers are always connected to AVR for surround sound sort of facing down a bit.  Front are in wall below vaulted ceiling part.  Actually though using two boxes in the hallway between the master bedroom and master bathroom.  Looks better there for me.  Two doors in the hallway on either side going to walk in closets.  The other rooms use only the 4X4 rings.
 
Front two speakers can be either AVR or a zoned Russound audio via AB switch. 
 
Stereo sound or surround sound.
 
It is not electronic or automatic using the AB switch. 
 
I do have an automatic stereo speaker switch but never tried it.  It uses the output from the amplifier to switch from one speaker to another.  By default here it would be AVR. Then when running the Sonos audio it would turn on the speakers for that stuff.  The switcher is tiny and utilized 12VDC.
 
IE:  This is where I ran another 16/4 cable to the box where the Russound controller is in the wall.  It is a double sized 4" X 4" plastic ring.  One side is the digital controller and other side is the manual speaker switch.  From here the 16/4 wire goes to the AVR speaker output.  The other 16/4 wire goes to the rack in the closet where the Russound amps are at.
 
1 - Two of the speakers need to be my rear surround when the TV and A/V receiver are turned on - AB switch in in one position,
 
2 - other times my wife will be streaming pandora throughout the house (or on the 4 speaker living room zone) - AB switch(s) is in another position.
 
Quickie drawing.
 

2 options, auto sensing switch like the Russound AB 3.2, or use the Sonos as an input to the AVR.

Depends on how your cables are run, the ease of running new cables, and the control system you are using.

If you run the Sonos as an input to the AVR, you'll need to turn on the AVR each time, or leave it on.

I dug up the auto speaker switcher that I never used.  It was still in the orginal box wrapped in plastic with its power adapter.
 
Found more and it looks like I got them in a bulk purchase from ???. 
 
It is a bit smaller than the Russound AB 3.2.  It is a SpeakerCraft SL ONE Speaker Level A / B switch.
 
Took a picture of it.  Googling it shows it around $50 or so.
 
Here is a picture of the Russound AB 3.2.  Googling it shows it around $80
 
Footprint is a bit smaller on the Speaker craft one.
 
Here I went to doing the AB manual switching in 5 rooms that had zoned and subzoned audio.  I would have had to bury the speakercraft switch in the wall so I decided not to use it.
 
I had a look as its been a while and they are all the same ones.  Simple single Russound button AB switch.  These are all paired with Russound keypad controllers.
 
The whole thing is a bit over doing it as the Omnitouch screens also control the Russound stuff and their are other touchscreens that control the multimedia stuff. 
 
IE: Master bedroom has this stuff in the hallway (4X4 double ring) and one tabletop touchscreen each on the nightstands, Omnitouch on the wall and tabletop touchscreen by the AVR.
 

 
Both devices are similiar in function and both utilize 12VDC.
 

Yeah, shame none of them are small enough to be mounted in a wall box.   I seem to recall Niles also made one, but it was even larger.
 
It's not relevant to the question asked, but Russound makes the A-LC3 designed to allow input from a local source into their A-Bus hub, which was designed to fit in a single gang position.  You'd think with the popularity of local streaming source like the Sonos there'd be someone else making a wall-installable option of some sort.

It looks like the Russound AB 3.2 is what I'm looking for.  Every LV wire in my house is a home run into a central location (for ultimate flexibility).  I wish there was something like the AB 3.2 but one that supported many inputs/outputs.  My previous example is just one of several situations where I want to dual purpose speakers in my home.  Here are several more:
 
1)  ELK M1 Gold Alarm - send to multiple in-ceiling speakers
2)  Fire Sprinkler Alarm - send to outdoor spekaers
3)  Exterior motion sensor - send to indoor and outdoor speakers
etc...

Yeah here utilize Homeseer SAPI text to speech to the Russound stuff for my OmniPro chit chat.   I utilize a variety of voice fonts (including non english speech fonts to bug my wife - IE: french, portuguese, italian, UK english, et al).
 
I am also using a mini serial server splitting the RS-232 from the Russound to the OmniPro 2 panel and Homeseer box.
 
Here the LV wiring for the Russound audio is simple; IE 16/4 and cat5e to each room.  Subzone wiring is all local.  
 
In the 90's had speakers outside connected to my old combo alarm / automation panel with speech.  The speakers were connected to the garage which was separate from the house at the time.
 
Got a bit too chatty so I removed them about a month or two after installing them.
 
I do have two external Russound zones (deck/garage external Russound speakers).
 
I added an audio subzone to the garage speakers when I configured a golf stuff area and put an LCD TV/touchscreen there.

Try googling 4 x 2 audio switch.

I would have strong concerns about integrating alarm and fire annunciation. Would probably do well with a stand alone system for those.

Some whole house audio controllers have a paging functuon, which lowers the music sound ('ducking') and plays the announcemnt. I don't know if that Russound unit supports paging. I believe the paging audio is usually set as one of the audio inputs on the controller/amp.

I use a Nuvo LSI (Local System Interrupt) for A-B switching, sharing speakers with whole-house audio. It fits in a single gang ring, and is wired to a zone keypad. When it senses input from the KP, it switches the input to the whole house Audio. IIRC, it's a 24V continuous signal from the KP to the LSI A-B switch.

Here utilize a mixer for automation SAPI integration to one Russound source. 
 
Mostly because I am playing now with 4 automation servers each with their chit chat and integration to the Kinect / Amazon Alexa application which runs on another tiny box (mini baytrail PC now).
 
I do also have a line level auto switcher in place on source #1 which works similiarly to the paging functions.
 
I have toned down much HAI OPII status and alarm speech chatting and gone to chimes as it was too chatty. 
 
Interior alarm sounders are also still utilized.
 
You can also purchase one of those tiny speakers in a box which will fit in a single outlet sized box and just run a separate audio output from the alarm chit chat to one of these (or many) keeping the alarm panel audio speech autonmous from the zoned amplifier speech.  Here never purchased the OPII audio board but I did read some place that my Omnitouch screens would work with the audio board.

Neurorad said:

I use a Nuvo LSI (Local System Interrupt) for A-B switching, sharing speakers with whole-house audio. It fits in a single gang ring, and is wired to a zone keypad. When it senses input from the KP, it switches the input to the whole house Audio. IIRC, it's a 24V continuous signal from the KP to the LSI A-B switch.

Click to expand...

 
Ooh, nice find.  Does it require being used with a Nuvo setup?  Or would it still work if you just provided it with 24v?  

They also make one with a 40w amplifier.  Same deal?  Works with only their controller or possible to use independently?