Dual momentary push button

mikefamig

Senior Member
I feel a little silly asking this but I've searched the net and came up empty.
 
Can anyone point me to a LV two button momentary switch that looks nice mounted on the wall. I basically need a dual doorbell but I want the buttons to be a little larger and look decent on the wall. It can be flush mount or I can install a single gang box in the wall.
 
One button will control the overhead garage door and the second will be a manual over-ride for an occupancy sensor that controls a light fixture.
 
TIA Mike.
 
 
I would just buy a couple of SPST momentary buttons from digikey (or similar) and mount then on a blank faceplate...
 
You could use these GE style LV switches. Don't be fooled by the part number, which is RS2-32.  It has nothing to do with serial RS-232 protocol.  These are SPDT momentary contact switches.  They are heavy duty and last for decades.
 
RAL said:
You could use these GE style LV switches. Don't be fooled by the part number, which is RS2-32.  It has nothing to do with serial RS-232 protocol.  These are SPDT momentary contact switches.  They are heavy duty and last for decades.
 
That is a nice looking switch but it is spdt and I need dpdt to switch two individual circuits.
 
Mike, have you looked at REX buttons and plates?
 
My OHD opener buttons were replaced with a single REX button (2" square green) that I modified by pulling out the function LED and putting a toggle in the hole to select which OHD. Used a single gang box.
 
Basically, almost anything access control or door release type would be what I'd look at. Granted Digikey, mouser and others might have something.
 
DELInstallations said:
 
That small button wouldn't go to high on the WAF scale.
 
I'm looking for a large button so that I can open the door from my family room and feel around in the dark for a nice big and maybe even lit button for the light.
 
My original design is now changing. I initially was looking for two LV buttons, one for the overhead door and the other to manually over-ride a light connected to an occupancy sensor. I still plan to install a large LV button for the door but now instead of a LV manual over-ride on the OC lighting I am thinking of re-designing the lighting altogether.
 
Currently there is a 3-way switch on each end of the room attached to a single incandescent bulb socket that the builder installed which I have not used in yeas. The reason that I abandoned it is because the builder installed the light switch on the hinge side of the door and you have to enter the dark room and close the door to get to the light switch.
 
The room also has three fluorescent tube fixtures connected to the OC sensor which I installed and the lights go on and off when anything moves including the OH door which has been working out very well. The problem is that the OC sensor is set to only work when it is dark outside and I have no way to turn on a light manually if I would like to in the daytime.
 
So my new plan is to begin by moving the 3-way switch to the correct side of the door and have it control the three fluorescent fixtures. Then I will connect the occupancey sensor to the single bulb socket containing an LED bulb. This way we will get the single bulb when there is motion (going out to empty garbage etc) which will save me a bunch of electricity and if I want more light I can walk over to the wall and flip one of the 3-way switches for the fluorescent tubes.
 
So now i just need a nice looking single momentary button to control the door and I am liking the touch plate or similar as they look like a  traditional light switch.
 
Mike.
 
mikefamig said:
Would one of these touch-plate switches normally be installed in a box or just put a couple of screw anchors in the sheet-rock? I looked at the specs and they do not fit in a single gang light switch box.
 
http://www.kyleswitchplates.com/genesis-low-voltage-touch-plate-switch-1-button-white/
 
Mike.
 
Since it is LV, you could mount it without a box behind the plate.  But I'm pretty sure the plate will mount to a standard electrical box. The center to center screw distance of 3-9/32" is the distance between the screws that secure a standard switch to screw holes at the edge of the box.  Note that this is different from the shorter distance you measure between the screws that secure a normal cover plate to the switch itself.
 
I bought a Plasmaglow 11020 Blue switch (use Amazon) to turn my hot water recirculation line on/off along with status led. The switch is similar to one that would be used in car. I haven’t yet integrated it into my Elk. I was planning on drilling a hole in switch plate. The status LED will be used to indicate if the pump is running.
 
I just found a decent looking door bell button at the local big box hardware store and drilled a nylon blank face (the cheap, standard face plates are very brittle and difficult to drill without damaging them) place for a standard box. Then disconnected the light - couldn't find one without a light. I suppose I could have hooked it to a relay so I could have had the lighted feature as well. I discarded the original mounting plate and used just the switch button itself. This is for hot water recirculation pump. The buttons are small enough several could be put in one plate along with some LEDs. The second picture is of a similar button installed with the mounting plate it comes with.
 

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