How do I ground cat 5 cables

I plan on running some cat5e shielded cabling inside some (pvc like conduit) to the mailbox for an IP camera. From what ive read it must be grounded because it leaving the inside. I planned on using pre made 100ftpatches. How would I ground these?

Welcome to the Cocoontech duckhunder9300. 
 
Have a read right here on Cocoontech relating to LV grounding and surge protection outbuildings et al.
 
Do a search on Cocoontech Surge Protection right here.
 
You really want to look at the entire infrastructure of what it is you are doing; IE: not just one wire with one camera.
 
Have a look at ethernet surge protection devices.
 
Best means are using the wire.  You can easy button it by using wireless although I would not recommend it. 
 
Best wireless is a single point of a wireless presence going to a single endpoint (wireless bridge) but there can be issues so it really isn't an easy button solution if not done right.

duckhunter9300 said:

I plan on running some cat5e shielded cabling inside some (pvc like conduit) to the mailbox for an IP camera. From what ive read it must be grounded because it leaving the inside. I planned on using pre made 100ftpatches. How would I ground these?

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How far away is your mailbox?

duckhunter9300 said:

I plan on running some cat5e shielded cabling inside some (pvc like conduit) to the mailbox for an IP camera. From what ive read it must be grounded because it leaving the inside. I planned on using pre made 100ftpatches. How would I ground these?

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What you need is a surge protection device.  Take a look at what's available from Ditek.
 
Are you going to be using POE to power the camera?
 
The DTK-PVPIP or DTK-MRJPOE might be just what you need.  You would locate this at the point where the cable enters the house, and connect it to your electrical system ground rod.  Preferably by a direct, as short as possible copper wire, and not to an outlet ground.
 

duckhunter9300 said:

I planned on using pre made 100ftpatches. 

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Terminating (putting the ends on) CAT5E cabling is one of the easiest things you can do.  Seriously.  The cost of even a cheap set of RJ45 crimpers is going to be WELL BELOW the cost of pre-made cables and the mess of couplers that might be involved.  It really is easy.
 
But you mention 100ft patches, as in plural.  You do realize that wired ethernet has a max distance of 100 meters, right?  That's 330ft, more or less.  And it's less when you start putting couplers in-line.  Each connection attenuates the signals, decreasing the distance possible.  Yes, in some situations you can 'get away with' more than 330, typically be down-grading to a slower speed (10mb instead of 100mb).  This presents longer-term issues as not all gear reliably stays set to a fixed configuration.  Thus using supported distances and proper wiring techniques saves you a lot of troubles in the long run.

As stated above I wouldn't patch up multiple runs of 100ft cable.  As Bill states above also keep in mind the 100 meter limits of catXx cabling.
 
Note I am not promoting MonoPrice.  I am only using the vendor as an example.
 
Monoprice has a 1000ft spool of outdoor cat5e for around $112.00
 

 
Terminating the ends are easy with the proper tools.
 
A compression style crimper is suggested, wire jacket stripper and a bag o RJ-45 ends (all reasonably priced)
 

 
 
There are cheap and expensive network wire testing tools.  I purchased a reasonably priced tool that tells me the pairing, length or if there are any shorts in the cabling.
 

its about 150ft. I figured doing a premade one because I'm only adding this one camera to the system.I hate to buy 1000ft or 500ft for 100.00 and only need 150 ft.

The biggest downside, besides increased cost, is dealing with the connector.   With plain cable you're free to 'abuse' the end of the wire as is necessary to get it pulled.  Just don't over-stress the length as it's not too hard to break the conductors inside a longer length.  If you pull 150 and it doesn't test true then having spent not-much-more on a 500' roll won't seem like a waste time-wise... just sayin'...
 
You mention conduit.  Is this existing conduit or new?  Is it going to share the same conduit as anything else, like AC electric?  That being a no-no as far as signal reliability is concerned.  You should generally avoid running low voltage digital lines directly in parallel with AC line voltage.  
 
Pulling wire through conduit is never as easy as it "ought to be".  That and take are about lubricants as not all are compatible with the insulating jackets on cabling (and this is often hard to determine with pre-made ones).
 
That and don't assume the conduit is going to remain water tight.  Most don't, no matter how careful you try to be.  This usually means it's a good idea to plan on using direct burial grade cable, even though it'll be in a conduit.  "Belt and suspenders" as the saying goes.  You don't want to have failures crop up requiring replacement.  Better done right once than done again...
 
And, yes, like any internet forum topic, there's always the potential for more details than necessary, practical or affordable.  Me, I prefer to err on the side of "don't make me do this again".

thanks, the pvc conduit will be for the cat5 only.nothing else. It will be ran thru the attic to the outside. Would it be easier just to run direct burial and not even put it thru conduit?

I dont want to link a site but would the Ubiquiti Networks ETH-SP Ethernet Surge Protector for Outdoor High-Speed Networks, work?

duckhunter9300 said:

thanks, the pvc conduit will be for the cat5 only.nothing else. It will be ran thru the attic to the outside. Would it be easier just to run direct burial and not even put it thru conduit?

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Conduit is great for lots of reasons, avoiding accidental damage being the main one.  It won't prevent 'everything' but it'd generally slow down simple accidents or animal damage and prevent UV degradation.  There is the potential for allowing replacement of the cables in the future. But if the cable went bad due to conduit damage you're still doing to have to deal with some amount of digging.  This is where one of the cable testers with a TDR feature can help determine just how far along the problem might be.  
 
If it's running inside the attic and then down along an outside wall then I'd probably go with conduit, if just to avoid it looking like crap.  It's not uncommon to do that and terminate the conduit to an open end underground and then just go through the soil (having used direct burial wire the entire length to avoid connections).  But if you've got a good place to put the isolation stuff then you could use that a bridge to go from interior to direct burial kinds of cable.

You will need outdoor rated Cat5 anyway. Direct burial is a different beast again. Only ground the shield at you receiving equipment end.
 
Make sure the connectors are for round cable. The wrong flat-cable connectors crimped on will break the conductors.
EDI

duckhunter9300 said:

its about 150ft. I figured doing a premade one because I'm only adding this one camera to the system.I hate to buy 1000ft or 500ft for 100.00 and only need 150 ft.

Click to expand...

 
If you are going to run the cable underground, even in conduit, it should be rated for direct burial.  The conduit will get water in it, no matter what you do.
 
If you don't want to buy a full spool of cable, you can often find more reasonable lengths on eBay.  Or, buy a 500' or 1000' spool and sell the leftover portion on eBay. 
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300Ft-Cat5-e-Gigabit-Direct-Burial-Outdoor-UV-Gel-Ethernet-Network-Cable-No-c-/330713644045?hash=item4d0011bc0d:g:~bcAAMXQ4uJR-a98
 
When buying cable, I would recommend getting solid copper cable, rather than copper clad aluminum (CCA).  Most of the inexpensive cables are CCA, even if they don't clearly state it.

I'll start prefacing that I did not read all the posts in the thread, but it seems to go down the path of surge protection.
 
Grounding is done typically by using STP - Shielded Twisted Pair (as opposed to UTP - Unsheilded Twisted Pair).  The connectors on STP are metal with the shoeld or drain connected to the plug casing.  The switch has metal around where the RJ45 goes in (on higher end switches typically) and this created the connection for the drain on the cable to ground.
 
It's been a while, but I can't remember if it is best practice to not ground both ens so a ground loop is not created - thats something we do with instrumentation cabling.  One end is left floating and the other is grounded.
 
Surge protection is a different beast.  Similar but different.  You original question was regarding grounding, but surge protection (from lightning etc) is probably what the concern was really about.  I did not see a reference to STP so I included it here to answer the original question.  Grounding would be used in noisy environments (AC noise etc), surge protection for high transient voltage protection.
 
Mick

Do you have other cameras outside? Even just house mounted? If so, you should use STP for all of them, so you'd go through that 500'-1000' roll pretty quick. Other noisy places like a garage (if you use lots of power tools) could benefit, and using it elsewhere does not hurt either.
 
Does the camera have a grounding screw terminal on it? My cameras (LTS, a Hikvision OEM) do. I make a jumper when I crimp the shielded connector onto the STP and connect it to the ground screw then ground the cable in a shielded patch panel (which is grounded to the house safety ground) and then run it through a surge protector via UTP (APC rack mount modular 24-device protector) that is also grounded before I run it to my switch with another piece of UTP. The Ubiquiti surge protector @duckhunter9300 mentioned can give you additional surge protection at the device as well and optionally let you ground it at the device end which may or may not be good to do if it's also grounded at the house end, but some devices (like Ubiquiti's outdoor APs) are supposed to be grounded at both ends.