Self Monitor Installation ADT A910KR

Hi All,
 
Thanks in advance for any ideas and help. My wife and I bought our first house and it came with an ADT system installed (but disconnected from the network, not sure how long). As shown in the pictures it is a Safewatch Plus A910KR. I did a search and didn't find anything directly related to my panel (as far as my question is concerned). My question is this, what are my options, if any, of using the existing sensors with a self monitoring solution that would send me alerts (emails/texts) when something has triggered. I consider myself handy in some areas, cars, carpentry, but I don't have much electrical experience outside of basic lighting fixture changes. 
 
In case it matters in terms of hardware solutions, I am also planning on installing POE security cameras for use with Blue Iris (am flexible if someone has a better solution for software). As for home automation we have a wink hub and lutron outlets. I realize we may have to use multiple apps for monitoring and automation but consolidation can be nice. Thank you in advance, the help is very much appreciated.
 
 
 
 
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Replacing a Brinks or ADT alarm panel is a question that comes up frequently here.  A common suggested solution is to use a Honeywell/Ademco Vista 20P.  If you want to do self-monitoring, get a EnvisaLink 3 or 4 board to go with it. 
 
That will give you a good alarm system.  It's limited in terms of what you can do with automation, though.  If you a serious about automation, an Elk M1 Gold or a Leviton/HAI OmniPro II are much more capable (and expensive) systems.  There are also other ways to go with standalone automation controllers.
 
There was a similar discussion in this thread, not too long ago.
 
For the most part, existing sensors should work fine with a replacement alarm panel, with the possible exception of 2-wire smoke detectors. 2-wire smokes need to be compatible with the particular panel you choose.  If the existing ones are not the right kind, they're easy enough to swap out for new ones.
 
One thing to check for that can cause complications is whether there are end-of-line resistors installed.  You can check for these using a multimeter to measure the resistance across the wires connected to each zone.  Chances are, you don't have any installed on your system. But if you do, you'll need to replace them with a resistor that has the value your new panel requires.
 
Wiring up a new alarm panel isn't all that difficult in terms of connecting the wiring.  Before you dive into this, study up on what it takes to program an alarm system.  The manuals that come with them are written with the experienced installer in mind and not for beginners.  Fortunately, there are lots of helpful videos on YouTube, and lots of help available here.

Not possible for self-monitoring or third party.

Panel is a proprietary version (handshake/kissoff modified) of the Aritech/Moose Z900. Robust panel, but you're also looking at over 20 years old. Basically this is a great-granddaddy to an Elk (Wade Moose started both companies).
 
You could put a voice dialer and get generic information, but it's truly not worth it overall.
 
2.2K EOLR's on the panel.

Thank you both for your replies. Apologies for my confusion but would the Elk M1 Gold or Vista 20P installed in place of my current panel be a solution that allows for sel-monitoring (along with the Envisalink 3 or 4? I wasn't sure if Del's answer was assuming I keep my current panel. Thanks again!

Yes, the combo of a Vista 20P and EnvisaLink will let you do self monitoring.  The EnvisaLink isn't used with the Elk - the Elk can support self-monitoring all by itself.
 
Not sure why you want to do self monitoring.  If the reason is to save the cost of a monitoring service, you may be surprised to find that you can get monitoring from companies like AlarmRelay and NextAlarm for under $10 a month. Also many insurance companies will give you a discount for having an alarm system, making the net cost almost zero.

I didn't realize the monthly costs would go as low as that, thank you for that I will give them a look. After reading the above threads as well as a couple of others the Elk seems like an intriguing option and its ability to integrate with ISY (if I wanted to down the road).
 
Ral, I saw that you listed smarthome.com for Elk and ISY packages. I know they are listed on amazon as well but it doesn't appear to be from distributors listed on Elk's website, does this affect the warranty?
 
Also, my ADT has EOLR as noted above by Del and confirmed when I went downstairs to take a closer look. 2.2kOhms. Does this make an Elk installation significantly more difficult? Thanks again for all your help.

when I went downstairs to take a closer look. 2.2kOhms. Does this make an Elk installation significantly more difficult?
 
Not at all.  Easy peasy stuff.  You can crimp the EOL resistors or solder / heat shrink them on replacing the old ones.
 
I am guessing that the zones are all working fine as they are very simple devices and the technology utilized today is the same as it was 20 years ago. 
 
The Elk panel has a granular self EOL mode.  The OmniPro has one too except it is all or nothing.
 
There are a few OmniPro first generation users here on the forum.  These were installed in the 1990's (no ethernet ports though) and just ticking fine today.
 
Have two OmniPro 2 setups here using NextAlarm for years now and have not had issues with their service.
 
Baby steps and you will have no issues.

Thanks Pete that's good advice, I am starting my baby steps and will look at some of the installation training videos before I go too much further. I am looking at the Elk M1 Gold two-way wireless ready. Seems doable with some planning.
 
As for testing the zones in the old system, I plugged in the control panel in the basement and went to the keypad. Zones 2,4,5 were a red light. Zone 3 was blinking. Zone 1 only lit up (red) when I opened the door to the garage which didn't make sense. And Zone 6 never lit up but is connected on the panel.

Elk's official policy is that they provide warranty coverage only on items purchased from an authorized distributor.  If you have problems, and call Elk, they will initially tell you to go back to the retailer you purchased from.
 
That said, there are people here on Cocoontech that have found Elk can often be nice and provide warranty coverage anyway.  But I wouldn't want to depend on that.
 
The unauthorized sellers usually sell the Elk components at a lower price than the authorized sellers.  But they provide no technical support if you have questions and need help.  For someone starting out and installing their first alarm system, that support can be very valuable.
 
A good place to buy the Elk is Automated Outlet.  If you give them a call, they'll be happy to help you and make sure you are buying all the components you need to get going.
 
On your ADT panel, if all the EOLRs are back at the panel end, then replacing it with a new panel will be easy.  The EOLRs provide no benefit when they are installed at the panel, other than keeping the system happy if it requires them.   They really belong at the other end with the sensor contact.  You can remove them when you replace the panel. 

Yep the EOLRs are all back at the panel and after a youtube video on why resistors are important I realize now they aren't installed at the most beneficial point. I will check out Automated Outlet as well as some of the videos you mentioned. Thanks again.

DoItMyself said:

Thanks Pete that's good advice, I am starting my baby steps and will look at some of the installation training videos before I go too much further. I am looking at the Elk M1 Gold two-way wireless ready. Seems doable with some planning.
 
As for testing the zones in the old system, I plugged in the control panel in the basement and went to the keypad. Zones 2,4,5 were a red light. Zone 3 was blinking. Zone 1 only lit up (red) when I opened the door to the garage which didn't make sense. And Zone 6 never lit up but is connected on the panel.

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Sounds like you have wiring or device issues (assuming the panel is not in alarm or armed-check the LED on the bottom of the stack).
3 zones faulted, 1 in trouble or shunted, most likely shunted.
 
I wouldn't overthink the EOLR's or honestly, go with the 2 way wireless.
 
The biggest item is whether or not you can justify the expense of a M1 vs. something like a 20P and what the end level of desired integration or interface to other products is to be.
 
Worked on those panels for years. Good stuff, albeit old now.

Hi Del,
 
Thanks so much for your response.
 
I have spent most of tonight following the wires around since the zones are not labeled in the box and the writing on the individual wires has all but faded. It appears some of the window sensors have been cut (in one case because of a window replacement before we moved in). Only one zone appears to be fully intact. In order to test the wiring I was going to try continuity tests tomorrow on the different zones. As far as testing is concerned, anything that would be unique on a system of this age as far as open/close of window sensors, door sensors, etc..? Thanks again!

In self monitoring, you have to remember that you're the weakest link.  At that point the alarm system won't provide any safety benefit or reliably alert authorities; it'll just tell you something has gone wrong.  If you're on a cruise ship, airplane, in a meeting or driving through the woods when the alert goes out, it's served no useful purpose.
 
Smarthome.com is the maker of Insteon so that's the best place to buy insteon products.  AutomatedOutlet is great and a lesser mentioned company is HomeControls.com who is also excellent especially if on the west coast.

Is it possible to use the Envisalink as well as AlarmRelay or NextAlarm (the low cost monitoring solutions mentioned above).

So I am quickly learning that many of my sensors are either bad or the wire has been damaged because of lack of continuity. I was curious if I was going to be adding a lot of wireless options (or considering going full wireless for all sensors), would your recommendations on panels be different? Thanks again.