Well this is a first. Somehow when I reconnected the consoles I was off one slot to the left, which caused the 12V and GND to be swapped. The end result is only one works out of three. One says no controller data and the other is going haywire and showing random menus. Anybody know if Leviton / HAI can repair these or do I just need to order two replacements?
Console Repair
- Thread starter rsw686
- Start date
HAI is pretty good with repair, at least when I sent them an OmniStat. It depends on your time frame though. I'd guess you'll be at least a couple weeks to get them back. They usually look at the unit, if repairable, you get one price. If not, you'll get a discounted replacement price. (Maybe they'll take pity on you and warranty replace them, but they do encourage pro installs, so I doubt it.)
Which consoles are they?
Which consoles are they?
They are the standard 33A00-1 consoles. The consoles are 4 years old. I moved a year ago and only installed two on the main floor (front and garage door). I finally got around to running cable to the master bedroom and that's what I hooked up tonight. I should have double checked as the lighting is poor in my basement where the panel is. I'm glad the 3rd seems to be okay. I already ordered one replacement on eBay (new and was good price). I'll contact Levtion/HAI Monday and see what they say. That was a quick waste of $250...
pete_c
Guru
Here one of my 33A00-1 consoles had the keyboard LEDs on it starting to go. Thinking it was less than 1 year old. HAI replaced it with no issues. This was many years ago.
Swapped the wires on the one and Omnitouch 3.5" console in a rewiring effort and toasted it. (IE: worked but no communications). HAI at the time stated that they were discontinued and could not repair it. I tried here replacing a few parts on it but could not get it to work. None the less it is in the discard pile as I had already been using Omnitouch 5.7's so replaced it with one of those.
Today wife prefers using the Omnitouch 5.7 over the Omnitouch 5.7e, Omnitouch Pro software or my HSTouch screens.
BTW shorted a new OmniPro2 panel working on it one day in the dark. HAI replaced it at no cost to me.
I had issues (well thought I did) with first Omnistat 2000's. They did replace one some 3 times here relating to diagnostics done with HAI tech support.
Swapped the wires on the one and Omnitouch 3.5" console in a rewiring effort and toasted it. (IE: worked but no communications). HAI at the time stated that they were discontinued and could not repair it. I tried here replacing a few parts on it but could not get it to work. None the less it is in the discard pile as I had already been using Omnitouch 5.7's so replaced it with one of those.
Today wife prefers using the Omnitouch 5.7 over the Omnitouch 5.7e, Omnitouch Pro software or my HSTouch screens.
BTW shorted a new OmniPro2 panel working on it one day in the dark. HAI replaced it at no cost to me.
I had issues (well thought I did) with first Omnistat 2000's. They did replace one some 3 times here relating to diagnostics done with HAI tech support.
pete_c,
I feel better that yours had the same outcome when the wires were swapped and that your panel is okay. I was worried I might have caused damage to the panel as well as the consoles. The part circled in red has the top bulged on the two bad consoles. The good one is flat. I'm surprised the third console wasn't damaged as I connected them all, but the wire going to that one is much longer.
I feel better that yours had the same outcome when the wires were swapped and that your panel is okay. I was worried I might have caused damage to the panel as well as the consoles. The part circled in red has the top bulged on the two bad consoles. The good one is flat. I'm surprised the third console wasn't damaged as I connected them all, but the wire going to that one is much longer.
Attachments
pete_c
Guru
No the panel (new OP2 burned up - smoked it) when I accidentally shifted the power wires to it in the dark. HAI replaced it.
The Omnitouch console would boot up but not communicate to the OP2. That was the one that HAI would not repair.
The keypad console LEDs quit working and HAI replaced the console with no questions asked.
I wonder if just replacing that capacitor on your keypad console would fix it? I have only seen two metal capacitors blown in the last few years on my outside AC unit (compressor). These were larger caps and the bulged and leaked.
The Omnitouch console would boot up but not communicate to the OP2. That was the one that HAI would not repair.
The keypad console LEDs quit working and HAI replaced the console with no questions asked.
I wonder if just replacing that capacitor on your keypad console would fix it? I have only seen two metal capacitors blown in the last few years on my outside AC unit (compressor). These were larger caps and the bulged and leaked.
I heard back from Leviton/HAI this morning and they will repair the consoles for a flat fee of $45 each. This works for me so I'll be shipping them out tomorrow after I get them the serials. I did buy one new one on eBay so I'll either have a spare or I can mount it somewhere.
pete_c
Guru
Good news rsw686.
Here keep two hot spares. One I have used a few times for staging or configuring a new OP2 board on the workbench. Went to using only one in one home as wife prefers it. She does utilize the Omnitouch thermostat features. I did rewire the termination such that it is using a keyed connector (AllElectronics source) which only connects one way instead of a direct wire connection to the Keypad console.
Here keep two hot spares. One I have used a few times for staging or configuring a new OP2 board on the workbench. Went to using only one in one home as wife prefers it. She does utilize the Omnitouch thermostat features. I did rewire the termination such that it is using a keyed connector (AllElectronics source) which only connects one way instead of a direct wire connection to the Keypad console.
pete_c,
The consoles come with a keyed (looks like computer fan connector) on the back. Did you also do a keyed connector for connecting to the OP2 panel? It is slightly annoying having to twist and place 3 wires under one terminal. I used an ELK PD9 to breakout / protect the power for the motions, water sensors, glass breaks, etc. Too bad HAI doesn't have the Elk data bus hub for the consoles.
The consoles come with a keyed (looks like computer fan connector) on the back. Did you also do a keyed connector for connecting to the OP2 panel? It is slightly annoying having to twist and place 3 wires under one terminal. I used an ELK PD9 to breakout / protect the power for the motions, water sensors, glass breaks, etc. Too bad HAI doesn't have the Elk data bus hub for the consoles.
pete_c
Guru
The consoles come with a keyed (looks like computer fan connector) on the back.
You are correct. It has been a long long time here.
The crash and burn of the one 3.5" console was due to not seeing the colors correctly of the incoming wires wired to the keyed connector wires.
I originally used tiny wire nuts for the keypad console keyed wire to the OP2 wire then switched to soldering / heat shrinking the wires.
There is only one keypad console (and hub wires) connected to the OP2 panel. I have never touched this connection.
It is a PITA that the OP2 terminal connections are so close together. Inside today is way too busy and there is no more room for anything.
I should have done as you did moving all of your powered sensors to an external power supply. Here mixed them using an external power supply which turned it to more spaghetti.
I added an Omnitouch hub sub panel (with it's own battery) for the rest of the Omnitouch screens which are RJ-45 proprietary (not network) connections. Went patch panel to RJ-45 connector in the wall then a short cat5e cable to the Omnitouch screen.
BTW this is all related to me being really bad with colors of wires and even more when it is dark. So pretty much depend on my VOM and network tester tool.
You are correct. It has been a long long time here.
The crash and burn of the one 3.5" console was due to not seeing the colors correctly of the incoming wires wired to the keyed connector wires.
I originally used tiny wire nuts for the keypad console keyed wire to the OP2 wire then switched to soldering / heat shrinking the wires.
There is only one keypad console (and hub wires) connected to the OP2 panel. I have never touched this connection.
It is a PITA that the OP2 terminal connections are so close together. Inside today is way too busy and there is no more room for anything.
I should have done as you did moving all of your powered sensors to an external power supply. Here mixed them using an external power supply which turned it to more spaghetti.
I added an Omnitouch hub sub panel (with it's own battery) for the rest of the Omnitouch screens which are RJ-45 proprietary (not network) connections. Went patch panel to RJ-45 connector in the wall then a short cat5e cable to the Omnitouch screen.
BTW this is all related to me being really bad with colors of wires and even more when it is dark. So pretty much depend on my VOM and network tester tool.
Well my NEW eBay console arrived and it's defective / 12 years old. The beeper sounds like it is dying and gets progressive quieter / higher pitched on the triple beep. The chip date code is 2006 and the serial doesn't start with an S. When I sent the other two consoles in for service Levition asked for the serial and said it started with S. Additionally all three have a 2012 date code, which is the year I purchased them. What a hassle... This guy had 100% feedback as well.
pete_c
Guru
Send it back; well make the seller pay for the return. I have done that a couple of times. One seller told me once that he wouldn't until I wrote something nice about him. I just called Ebay's 800 number and followed their process. I have though never paid to return a defective item. Many times there is little print relating to no returns or stocking charges (even for defective items); I just call the Ebay 800 number.
If the item was sold as new and you received an old defective one then the seller is fraudulent and Ebay will want too know about the seller. That said it could be that he purchased old stock from somebody and never checked it.
If the item was sold as new and you received an old defective one then the seller is fraudulent and Ebay will want too know about the seller. That said it could be that he purchased old stock from somebody and never checked it.
