Something new I learned today

I like to post this kind of stuff here so that it might help someone searching the archives in the future.
 
I noticed recently that a dimmer switch in my house that is controlling a four bulb ceiling fan light fixture was warm to the touch. I did a little reading and learned that the components in a dimmer switch do generate some heat.and that it's normal for the switch to be warm. I never gave it any thought in the past but I'm happy with that answer. The switch is not hot, just a little warm to the touch.
 
What was more interesting to me is the fact that a metal outlet box will act as a  heat sink to the switch and keep it cooler than a plastic outlet box. Yeah it's obvious in hindsight but I wish I had thought of that when I installed the outlet box fifteen years ago. So the lesson of the day is don't use plastic outlet boxes unless you plan on installing wireless devices in them.
 
Live and learn, Mike.

Yup! Many of the HA dimmers I've installed, have specific wattage ratings, with associated decreasing (de-rated) ones as you break off tabs when they need to be installed in multiple gang boxes with adjacent switches. For example, the switch may be rated for 600W in a single gang installation, 500W in a dual-gang (tabs broke off on one side, and 400W if placed in the center of a 3+ gang box. The reasoning being that you are essentially removing heat sink material from the switch. 
 
Here's an example of a Zwave switch I'm referring to. You can see the (3) tabs on either side of the switch: 

The Insteon Dimmer type switches. Also have a 200 Watt reduction of maximum load. If more than one is mounted next to each other in the same electrical box.

This particular lighting fixture keeps killing bulbs quickly which is what drew my attention to it in the first place. Do you guys think that there is any connection between the switch heating up in the plastic box and the bulb life? I believe that I used a 900 watt Simply Automated dimmer and it is at least 600 watt if memory serves me. Before that it had a Leviton dimmer that also ran warm.
 
Mike.
 
EDIT
I did remove the light fixture and inspect the wiring and also inspected each light bulb socket and there is no sign of heat or any problem.

Nature of the beast, resistive dimmers and always rated in max wattage, whether or not they can be ganged and minimum box fill.

I found this on the Simply Automated web site
 
How is the power rating of SimplyBrilliant switches affected by multi-gang boxes?
 
One US1-40 switch or US2-40 base mounted in a triple-gang box is rated at 900W. Mounting two switches in a triple-gang box de-rates each switch to 800W. Mounting three switches in a triple-gang box de-rates each switch to 600W, which is the same for a single switch in a single junction box.

I rarely see it in dimmable LED bulb specifications.
Some have a Repetitive Peek and inrush currents. That have to be used when picking the number of them on a dimmer.
I had one 8.5 watt LED bulb that said count each one as 80 watts when adding up total wattage on a dimmer.

Thank you for the info Mike.
 
Here sort of gave up trying to fit two UPB switches side by side in a 4 X 4 metal box with a dual metal mudplate.  Typically I would have to trim the metal mudplate and switch which wasn't ideal.  I had similiar issues with the first generation of Insteon wall switches a few years back.
 
 
The PCS / SA / HAI 1000 watt switches I have have oversized heat shields which barely fit on the mud plate.