Confused, what security to put into new construction & who to

After lots of reading on the net and a few phone calls that only yield pressure to have this/that and to buy it, we are confused. We want a security system but not a home automation system.   I need an education to understand what to do and who to have it done by.
 We are thinking we should have it monitored for the first couple years and then wondered if it can be self monitored with cell phone notification in future years.?  
A split entry will be built this summer. This is the 2nd one we have GC'd.  
The house will be occupied by my husband and I plus 2 cats and 1 dog.
 
We know for sure is that we want some type of camera by the front door and possibly one at the back of the house  Suggestions that won't beak the bank?
We are thinking we only want the foyer and basement level wired, as the windows are all on grade level.  Is that a good idea?
Motion sensors and animals seem like a problem.  Ideas? 
It seems like glass breakage monitoring is expensive, but more realistic for what would happen if a criminal tried to enter.  Thoughts?
 
We think we want to have it wired and contact someone to do it.  But who has to do the wiring? 
If "X' company wired it and we wanted to switch monitoring companies 2 years later, is the wiring and equipment universal? 

Or, is there a better way to accomplish security? 
I appreciate your kind assistance in educating me.  
 
 

mrsmarti said:

After lots of reading on the net and a few phone calls that only yield pressure to have this/that and to buy it, we are confused. We want a security system but not a home automation system.   I need an education to understand what to do and who to have it done by.
 We are thinking we should have it monitored for the first couple years and then wondered if it can be self monitored with cell phone notification in future years.? 

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Having the system monitored by a central station is a good idea.  You will most likely receive a discount on your homeowners insurance which will pay for the cost of monitoring.  You usually can change to self-monitoring later, if you want.  But think about the times when self-monitoring won't work.  If you are out of range with your cell phone.  Or, if you are home and have a break-in or fire. Will you really be able to call 911 yourself?
 

mrsmarti said:

 A split entry will be built this summer. This is the 2nd one we have GC'd.  
The house will be occupied by my husband and I plus 2 cats and 1 dog.

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If you are building a new house,  plan on wiring all the doors and windows before the sheetrock goes up.  Wired is more reliable than wireless. And it's easy to do during construction.   Also, the wired sensors are easy to re-use with another alarm panel, should you ever need to replace it.
 
 

mrsmarti said:

We know for sure is that we want some type of camera by the front door and possibly one at the back of the house  Suggestions that won't beak the bank?

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It's best to think of the alarm system and video system as separate systems.  There are some simple solutions, such as the Ring Doorbell. Lots of other ways to go if you want multiple cameras and a network video recorder.   There are some inexpensive packages you can find at the big box stores, or you can roll your own.  It all depends on how much you want to spend and how much of your own effort you want to put into it.
 

mrsmarti said:

We are thinking we only want the foyer and basement level wired, as the windows are all on grade level.  Is that a good idea?

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Lots of alarm companies don't bother putting sensors on the upper levels.  But it's often easier for someone to break in that way than you might think.  Some burglars do things like drag an outdoor gas grill over to the house and and stand on it to get up to a 2nd floor window, or a roof that allows them access to a window.  Since you are building a new house, I'd wire everything.  It won't add much to the cost.
 

mrsmarti said:

Motion sensors and animals seem like a problem.  Ideas? 
It seems like glass breakage monitoring is expensive, but more realistic for what would happen if a criminal tried to enter.  Thoughts?

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There are motion sensors that are "pet immune."  But how well they work depends a lot on proper placement, the size of your pets and whether they jump up on furniture and such.  I would get a dual-technology motion detector that uses microwaves and infrared sensors.  Bosch Blue Line is one good example.
 
Glass break detectors are another possibility, but aren't perfect, either.  They really aren't all that expensive - about the same price as a motion detector.   There are acoustic glass break detectors, and also vibration sensors that mount on the glass or frame of the window.  Both have their pros and cons.
 
 

mrsmarti said:

We think we want to have it wired and contact someone to do it.  But who has to do the wiring? 
If "X' company wired it and we wanted to switch monitoring companies 2 years later, is the wiring and equipment universal?

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The electrician you hire to do your regular electrical wiring may be able to do the low voltage wiring for the alarm system.  Some are experienced in this, some are not.  You may also be able to find a contractor that specializes in low voltage alarm wiring.
 
If you have an alarm company do the wiring, they generally want to sell you the alarm system and have you commit to a monitoring contract.  Monitoring is where they make their money, and many will not sell you a system without it.
 
Alarm panels usually can be changed over to another alarm monitoring company.  But some alarm companies may not give you the installer code that is needed to switch it over.  In that case, you will need to replace the alarm panel if you want to switch.  That's not as big a deal as it may seem, and may cost you about $100 or so, assuming a basic alarm panel.
 
You didn't mention smoke detectors in your list.  Consider adding them to your alarm system. (Note that these are different from the smoke alarms that building codes require).
 
From what you've described, an alarm panel like a Honeywell Vista 20p would be one to consider.

Good advice from RAL.  Wiring is cheap when the walls are open and will be reliable down the line.
 
Not sure what you mean by a "split entry" but another thing to consider is keypads.  A security system has to be convenient or you probably won't use it.  There should be a keypad close to the entry or entries that you normally use.  I've just upgraded to a touchscreen LCD keypad.  It cost nearly double the price of an old school keypad but we think it is easier to use and looks much better on the wall.
 
You might also want to consider water leak sensors tied into your security system if you feel there is any risk at the new place.  Again, you may be able to get a break on your insurance.  
 
Whether self-monitored or not, you'll want also want sirens.  The idea is to attract attention and scare off the wannabe intruder.
 
Personally, I think the window stickers announcing that there is an alarm system are the highest-payoff component!  Makes the bad guy think that another house looks like a better target!!
 
Re motion detectors.  I don't have any experience with the pet-immune versions but there are a number of choices out there.  Keep in mind that when you arm the system in Stay mode, motion detectors are ignored.  They are only active when the system is armed in Away mode.  If they trip, someone has already gotten into your house.  If you have good perimeter security, motion detectors may not add much.
 
Along the same lines, you could consider a panic button.  You can use it to trigger the alarm for any kind of emergency.  
 
BTW, you may be able to find a low-voltage guy that can handle security, whole-house audio (ceiling speakers for background music), computer networking (wired is so much better if you want to add streaming services at your TV locations), etc.
 
Craig

I agree with the above two posts relating to the requirement / suggestion of using central station alarm monitoring.
 
Typically the push of the sales of a security system is a price per month security contract and minimal or no payment for the hardware.  That because you get little hardware / minimalist approach for the company to get the best bang for the buck.  NOT the other way around.  Most of the weight  / monies of said security contract is related to the monitoring and not so much the hardware utilized.  IE: An example is one piece of hardware wirelessly connected to 2-3 sensors with an added cost for more wireless sensors. 
 
As RAL mentions above relating to the granular pieces; the more you know the better you will be at deciding exactly what it is that you want. 
 
Personally you want to provide a good infrastructure for a typical  standard alarm panel.  The infrastructure (wires and sensors) are identical for every type of alarm system.  (door sensors, PIRs hardware is always the same).  This has evolved over the years such that there is a uniformity in standards of these types of devices.  Where it gets different sometimes is relating to wireless sensors.  That said there are alarm manufacturers common wireless standards such that you can utilize a wireless transceiver between different manufacturers of alarm panels.  The EOLR (End of the Line Resistor) values can be different but these devices are pennies each.  What you want to stay away from is proprietary to MFG sensors which locks you in to a proprietary alarm panel.  
 
Relating to PIR's (Passive Infrared) sensors installed in the early 2000's and functioning fine been updating these to dual technology which utilize passive infrared and microwave.  These are a bit more expensive and their prices have come down over the years.
 
For outside motion detection here utilize Optex sensors.  It is relating to mostly just lighting after scheduled outside.   I do not leave lights on outside all night.  That said scheduled lighting dims coach lights and landscaping lights (LED) on and off.  After midnight-1AM and before sunrise any outdoor motion triggers all outdoor lighting at full brightness. 
 
Both of the above features relate to security.  The second feature is automating lighting related to security and helps much with security.
 
In the house relating to alerts I have used piezo sounders for just loud sounds, chirps or beeps on the alarm keypads and text to speech.
 
With text to speech running for many years now have toned it down a bit as it got too chatty and it went way low on the WAF.
 
One home build the GC offered a prewire for alarm as part of the build package. There was no sticker price a la carte on the build list for the house options as it was included with a number of other feature upgrades. There was no push to any contracting company left after the prewire other than an alarm company sticker next to the wires pulled.    It was more than a year later that I called the original contracted for wiring alarm company.  I asked for a quote for a security panel with this and that options.  The quote came back in the vicinity of some $5k plus.  I then just purchased an HAI OmniPro panel and did it my self in baby steps.
 
Got permission from the GC on a friends home to LV wire it for everything.  It was him, his son and myself that prewired the house in some 3 days.  He wanted audio, security, network throughout the home.  We wired for that.  All of the wiring goes to a wiring room and a Leviton Panel where it sits mostly unterminated.  Its been over 5 years now and he has never gone past the network stuff and now the kids have moved and it is just his wife and him in the house of some 6-8k in size.
 
Nowadays not sure if you could get just a prewire from a subcontracted alarm company and it is not profitable for them.
 
Relating to low voltage wiring / cabling you are paying more for the labor rather than the wires and it is easier and reasonably priced before the walls go up versus afterwards.  Pricing though can be similar depending on the low voltage wiring contractor.
 
An analogy here was the installation of my irrigation system post build after grass was growing et al (2-3 years post build).  The cost related more to the installation of the water PVC lines versus the cost of the PVC and irrigation controller.  (thinking around 5-6k at the time).  Most likely the company though would have charged the same amount pre installation of SOD even though easier to do.
 
@mrsmarti
 
You have come to the right place here on Cocoontech. 
 
Ask your questions. 
 
Many of us here do the DIY approach. 
 
I have over the years not knowing anything and learning by reading here on the forum and just doing it.  That and when asking about pricing of said this or that it really depends on vendor and typically geo location rates.  That sometimes can vary state to state.  As mentioned above ask around relating to subcontracting for the work to be done. 
 
I always mention the term baby steps....start slow..grasping this stuff in a step by step fashion.  Once you know the pieces involved you will have a better understanding of stuff involved.  The building blocks are simple and basic.

Hi all. First I want to thank you for your helpful input.  A few family things came up and I haven't been back here.  I'm digesting what you all wrote and will probably be back with questions.  We've got to think about who is wiring, as we are doing the general contracting.  The one electrician who wants to wire our house is a 10 year retired electrical engineer (casual friend).  I'm not sure what his ability/experience is with Cat6 and security system wiring .  I'll have to figure out how to phrase my question without insulting him or pushing him into an ego saving bravado answer.    Alas, so much to think about. My break at work is over.   Later.  Mrs. M.

Low voltage wiring (alarm and network and audio) is similar but different than high voltage wiring (for 120VAC). 
 
 
Typically alarm cable wiring is or can be done to walls (for PIRs), windows (open close sensors), doors, keypads, et al and is usually 22 guage 4 wire or 22 guage 2 wire (tiny thin wire).  It can be tricky with windows and doors.  You want to hide these wires and not break any seals in the windows or doors.
 
Speaker wire is thicker at 16 gauge 4 and or 2 wire, cat5e is easier and cheaper than cat6.  
 
Designate a section or area in the house where you want to home run all of these low voltage cables.  Here working with the contractor made one closet / room the home run area.  All of the low voltage wires ran to this area / room / closet. 
 
The internet connection  - cable - runs to the home run area, there it connects to a firewall / router and switch where the network is distributed to the rooms in the house.  With that cabling ran a designated wireless access point cable to the second floor (ceilings these days for AP's with POE (power over ethernet).  Here do this stuff a la carte.  That said you do not really want to put a wireless access point in a basement.  It is better on the main floor or second floor of a home.
 
Such that an alarm security company would be fine doing the security wiring but not sure relating to audio or network cabling. 
 
Electric can be different too.  IE: up north in the midwest it is all conduit and metal boxes and wires go in to the conduit.  South (like FL) it is romex and plastic boxes.  The fuse panel is a fuse panel.  Here added more circuits for granularity rather than loads.  Post install it is easier to add circuits with conduit than it is with romex.  I have done both and prefer running wire in conduit rather than adding romex.  That is me.
 
IE: 200 AMP service or multiple fuse panels (well like in a detached garage) and multiple breakers say for the family room or kitchen.  Not really needed for the family room but I wanted to separate the multimedia (and TV) from the regular outlets and the lighting.

mrsmarti said:

The one electrician who wants to wire our house is a 10 year retired electrical engineer (casual friend).  I'm not sure what his ability/experience is with Cat6 and security system wiring .  I'll have to figure out how to phrase my question without insulting him or pushing him into an ego saving bravado answer. 

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Being an electrical engineer myself, I have an idea of what your friend might know.  But being an electrical engineer doesn't automatically give you all the knowledge you need to do high or low voltage electrical wiring.  You need good familiarity with the National Electrical Code (NEC) and any local codes.  Some electrical engineers use the NEC in their daily work, others may never have to worry about it in their entire career.  It all depends on the specific work they do.  Being an electrical engineer at, say GE, doesn't mean you know everything you need to know to properly wire a house.
 
I've wired several houses, and even when you know quite a bit about the NEC, it is still easy to get tripped up on some of the fine points.  Especially since the code is revised every few years and the rules change.   I've encountered electrical inspectors who just love to get very picky about small details on jobs that are done by non-professionals.  Having to do something over because it was done wrong the first time can get expensive.
 
I'm not saying you should or shouldn't let your friend do the electrical work.  But you are right to ask questions about his abilities.  Give some though to who will eat the cost when something isn't done right, or actual costs exceed the budget.

RAL said:

(Note that these are different from the smoke alarms that building codes require).

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Seems like I have seen this comment before, what is different?
 
My old house had some cheap ones. Having monitored smoke detectors was one of the main reasons for me buying an alarm. We have a new house and I am starting to look alarm panels myself.
The new house built in 2016 has both smoke and CO. They also have power running to them. So when I add the alarm, do I add smoke and do they replace whats there? The old house was total electricity so it did not need a CO.
 
 

RAL said:

From what you've described, an alarm panel like a Honeywell Vista 20p would be one to consider.

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Can you do a DYI on Honeywell panels? 
Would you then own the installer code and be able to control who montiers it? 
Does whoever monitor it have to have special software to connect to it? 
What about cell technology? We do not have phone land lines.

penright said:

Can you do a DYI on Honeywell panels? 

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Absolutely. 
 

Would you then own the installer code and be able to control who montiers it?

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Yes. 
 

Does whoever monitor it have to have special software to connect to it?

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A central station would receive reporting codes from your alarm panel based on alarm conditions. A communicator would be required for the 20P unless you are using POTS. 
 

What about cell technology? We do not have phone land lines.

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Yes, see above regarding communicator. There are cellular communicators available for the 20P and practically any other panel available.