29 replies to this topic

[kwschumm]

I'm preparing a buy list for a new build and would like to query those who use the OP2 about some recommended and currently available sensors that are known to work fine with the OmniPro II. Last house was built with HAI panel (OnQ actually) I but that was 18 years ago and many of the products I used then are NLA, companies merge, get bought out, etc. All of these will be hard-wired with the possible exception of the driveway sensors.

 

- Smoke/CO 4-wire sensors

 

- Glass Break sensors

 

- Combustible gas sensors (LP) - I've used Macurco before with good results (almost too sensitive), wondering if there are less expensive sensors that work as well

 

- Interior and exterior sounders

 

- Driveway vehicle sensors (900 foot driveway)

 

- Exterior Strobes

 

- Water sensors - have used Winland Waterbugs before with good results, wondering if there are competitors that work as well or better for less money. Between the house and shop we have about 20 places for water sensors

 

- Ghost detectors - Just kidding!

 

Thanks for any and all recommendations!

 

 

 

[kwschumm]

No responses so I'll post what I'll be using.

 

- Smoke/CO 4-wire sensors are SystemSensor COSMO-4W (needs one COSMOD4W polarity interface for all sensors)

- Glass Break sensors are Honeywell FG-730

- Combustible gas sensors are Macurco GB-2D

- Interior sounders are ATW Bloodhounds

- Exterior sounders are ATW DS-406 (with 1A draw it needs relay)

- Exterior Strobes are ATW STL-35

- Water sensors - Winland Waterbugs

- Driveway sensors - Cartell CT-2B controller and CT-6 sensor

- Interior motion sensors are Pet-Immune (?) Bosch ISC-BDL2-WP6G (20sf x 20xf coverage) and ISC-BDL2-WP12G (40sfx40sf coverage)

 

Maybe someone will find this useful.

 

 

[Russ55]

Thanks for your posts kw! I'm building a new house but won't break ground until next summer. I've already bought my Omnipro2 panel (found a deal) and am looking for sensors, so your posted information is much appreciated. It sounds like you have some experience with some of your items. Please expound on why you're sticking with them and as you install items let us know if there are issues.

I'm curious to know what you are looking at for consoles. I'm not sure if I should be looking for at least one of the 33A00 series consoles (old style but reliable) or if it's safe to go with Omnitouch 7's. For some reason all of the "pros" who have been very vocal here in the past totally stopped talking about the OT7 about a year ago. (There is one other post - that I have found - with a few more recent comments about this product, but they haven't addressed the reliability issues that were a primary complaint in the original OT7 post that went on for 3 years!!). Maybe the OT7s are now "perfect" or maybe the "pros" all got paid off to stop talking about them (LOL).

Thanks again for your posts!

[kwschumm]

I'm sticking with the OmniPro for a few reasons. One big reason is that I had one before and it was rock solid, plus I am already familiar with it so no new learning curve. HA used to be my hobby but I've moved on to other interests and I don't want to be futzing with the system, I want to install it, spend a few weeks programming and refining it, and then be done except maybe for ongoing tweaks.

 

I am using it for lighting, security, life safety (smokes, CO, gas, etc), and a few convenience items (driveway sensor, automatic water shutoff valve for flood protection).

 

Unlike the last system I won't have thermostat control since the heat pumps we are installing require special variable speed logic, however I will have automated disconnects to shut down the heat pumps during a fire event. I may use Z-wave for that if Leviton ever supports Z-wave thermostats. The HAI thermostats were the one weakness we encountered with the old system (three failures in 15 years).

 

I have zero interest in integrating home entertainment, Sonos products will do what we need. Surveillance cams will be on a dedicated system. I also have no interest in using voice control, dedicated remotes for motorized shades, ceiling fans, or just about anything else that comes with it's own remote control works for me. The HAI phone app can be used for most other things.

 

Regarding consoles, my opinion is that the 33A00 consoles are quite reliable, easy to use, and far less trouble than the touchscreens. I view touchscreens as something visually attractive, more expensive, unnecessary and a potential time sink for the purpose of showing off. Not really my thing. If I was going that route I'd mount a tablet on the wall.

 

In 15 years of ownership I had ZERO failures on any of the HAI products that weren't thermostats. Well, except for the primitive wireless receiver and sensors, those I gave up on in the first week of ownership but that was 18 years ago, I'm sure they're better now.

 

I am disappointed that Leviton bought HAI and is letting it die on the vine. A long time ago, in the comp.home.automation group on Usenet, I solicited ideas from other users and compiled a "wish list" that was forwarded to HAI. They sent an email to thank me for that. I'll have to dig up the list and see if any of those ideas were implemented but, looking at the OmniPro capabilities currently available, it seems not. Oh well.

[Russ55]

Thanks for your insights kw, and for sharing here. Much appreciated!

[pete_c]

Here switched outdoor sound / strobe (similar to what you picked above) to an outdoor combo piezo siren and strobe.

 

Found the imports for $4 on Ebay.  They have them in blue or red.

 

This is the same one but it is $20 instead of $4.

 

Security Alarm Siren Strobe Combination Watchdog Doberman ATW Alert Light Piezo

 strobe.jpg   13.01K   5 downloads

 

[Russ55]

Here switched outdoor sound / strobe (similar to what you picked above) to an outdoor combo piezo siren and strobe.
 

Just curious as to the "why" behind the switch ... Louder with less current draw?

[kwschumm]

Just curious as to the "why" behind the switch ... Louder with less current draw?

 

I was going to go with the integrated ATW Doberman piezo/strobe but decided to stick with the ATW-406 siren, because it's louder, and a separate strobe. Some reviews said the Doberman strobe was less a strobe and more of a blinking light. I have no personal experience with the Doberman and that review may be wrong but the separate ATW strobe in my last house was pretty darn bright. But I do like the louder siren, since I'm in a secluded area with multi-acre lots, and installing it with a relay to reduce current draw is no big deal.

[pete_c]

Draw for combo is posted at 150Mw.  Not really sure though.

 

Yes louder would be better for a secluded area.

[a0128958]

No responses so I'll post what I'll be using.

 

- Smoke/CO 4-wire sensors are SystemSensor COSMO-4W (needs one COSMOD4W polarity interface for all sensors)

- Glass Break sensors are Honeywell FG-730

- Combustible gas sensors are Macurco GB-2D

- Interior sounders are ATW Bloodhounds

- Exterior sounders are ATW DS-406 (with 1A draw it needs relay)

- Exterior Strobes are ATW STL-35

- Water sensors - Winland Waterbugs

- Driveway sensors - Cartell CT-2B controller and CT-6 sensor

- Interior motion sensors are Pet-Immune (?) Bosch ISC-BDL2-WP6G (20sf x 20xf coverage) and ISC-BDL2-WP12G (40sfx40sf coverage)

 

Maybe someone will find this useful.

 

I use standard UL listed 4-wire smoke detectors, UL listed 2-wire heat detectors, EOL resistors, and EOL relays as sourced from a reputable alarm company (i.e. System Sensor).  I don't think it matters what company you use here as long as the sensors and accessories are all UL Listed.  Go for price given this requirement.

 

Smoke detectors should be replaced every 10 years, regardless of manufacturer.

 

I use Macurco for CO and NG.  Haven't found better / less expensive product than from this manufacturer.

 

Likewise, these should be replaced too.  I think CO sensors should be on a 5 year schedule.  I'm not sure for NG - I do it every 10 years.

 

I use Wet Switch, from Diversified Products, for water detection.  Rated 4.3 out of 5 on Amazon.  24 VAC operation, thus 'powerable' from HVAC low voltage.  Separate NO/NC relay controlled by presence/absence of water.

 

Best regards,

 

Bill

Edited by a0128958, 27 December 2017 - 06:04 PM.

[ano]

I was going to go with the integrated ATW Doberman piezo/strobe but decided to stick with the ATW-406 siren, because it's louder, and a separate strobe. Some reviews said the Doberman strobe was less a strobe and more of a blinking light. I have no personal experience with the Doberman and that review may be wrong but the separate ATW strobe in my last house was pretty darn bright. But I do like the louder siren, since I'm in a secluded area with multi-acre lots, and installing it with a relay to reduce current draw is no big deal.

If you use a relay for your siren, that is fine, but make sure it has a battery backup. 

 

- Combustible gas sensors

From my experience, these are too sensitive, or maybe a better way to put it is they are not very selective. 

 

In my last house I also had CO2 detectors. So CO2 is a measure of indoor air quality. When the CO2 was to high, I started a blower that would mix in outside air into the HVAC system.  I didn't use an air exchanger, as I really don't believe they are cost effective.  When you have a party with lots of people, your CO2 level will rise.

 

Also, don't know where you live, and you don't need to automate this, but make sure you test for Radon. Its a big killer, and even know I don't live in an area where its known, I've had high levels in two houses.  The more air-tight your house is, the bigger problem it is.

[kwschumm]

If you use a relay for your siren, that is fine, but make sure it has a battery backup. 

 

- Combustible gas sensors

From my experience, these are too sensitive, or maybe a better way to put it is they are not very selective. 

 

In my last house I also had CO2 detectors. So CO2 is a measure of indoor air quality. When the CO2 was to high, I started a blower that would mix in outside air into the HVAC system.  I didn't use an air exchanger, as I really don't believe they are cost effective.  When you have a party with lots of people, your CO2 level will rise.

 

Also, don't know where you live, and you don't need to automate this, but make sure you test for Radon. Its a big killer, and even know I don't live in an area where its known, I've had high levels in two houses.  The more air-tight your house is, the bigger problem it is.

 

Thanks Ano. The separate siren and strobe will be installed in a shop that has a external expansion enclosure (battery backed up).

 

You are right, we found in the last house that combustible sensors are very sensitive. They were in a mud room off the garage and would go off occasionally from car exhaust, or aerosol cleaners, or any solvents used in the house. I'll mull that one over. Maybe just install them and monitor them, not alarm on them. An email or voice message would be good to have.

 

Our plans call for a sealed crawl space foundation, which will have a radon evacuation system drawing from under the crawl space "rat slab". Crawl space and house will have dehumidifiers. The house dehumidifier will bring in fresh air but adding a CO2 sensor to monitor is a great idea. We will have to add a source of make-up air for a 600 cfm range hood, maybe that could be operated with the range and also when CO2 levels rise.

[Russ55]

 
The separate siren and strobe will be installed in a shop that has a external expansion enclosure (battery backed up).

If I read it correctly the expansion enclosure (17A00) has a recommended 400 micro amp output for UL applications and a max of 1.5 amps with battery backup. I think your listed siren draws 1 amp.

I am building in a multi acre lot area as well, and was interested in possibly more than one exterior siren (pointing in different directions), as well as interior sirens, and interior/exterior strobes. With the main OPII panel maxing out at 1 amp current draw, even with the expansion panel adding 1.5 max amp draw I may be approaching limits.

Does anyone know of the availability of a separate power supply with battery back-up for around a 5 amp maximum draw (that can be relay driven) without breaking the bank? Is this something that can be easily made? Thanks!

[RAL]

Does anyone know of the availability of a separate power supply with battery back-up for around a 5 amp maximum draw (that can be relay driven) without breaking the bank? Is this something that can be easily made? Thanks!

 

For an aux power supply in that range, consider something from Altronix, such as the AL600 series.  There several models in that series, with single or multiple outputs. The power supply can deliver 6 Amps, with individual outputs fused for 3.5A on the multi-output models.

 

You can often find one on eBay for under $100 in used condition, or $100 to $150 new.

 

Here are a couple examples:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302505732943

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401098917927

[Russ55]

Thanks RAL! That's exactly what I am looking for. (I just didn't know the correct terms to search for.)