As I mentioned before I had a Honeywell Ademco alarm panel that was recently replaced with the M1. I have been making my way through the transition ok but have hit a recent snag that's giving me some issues and I'm hoping I can get some help figuring it all out. In the previous hookup there was one zone that had two areas of the house linked together and they were listed as back windows and side windows. There was a total of 4 wires. I disconnected the 4 wires and took the 2 wrapped together and attempted to make that a zone and did the same for the second set of wires thinking that would work. Well its not and it's driving crazy. I feel I'm missing something basic but I need some guidance. Thanks in advance for any help!!!!!!
Wiring Issue with Elk M1/Newbie
- Thread starter Mridixon
- Start date
Mridixon said:
Multimeters can measure several different things - usually Voltage, Resistance (Ohms) and Current (Amps).
In this case, you would use the Ohms scale (the lowest scale, it it has more than one setting for resistance) to measure the resistance across
each pair of zone wires. When the windows are all closed, the resistance should be close to zero Ohms, say 5 or 10. If any window is open, then the resistance should be infinite.
If you see those values, that will tell you that the zone is working as it should. If you don't see the proper values, that says something is wrong with the zone, and then we can help you figure out what to try next.
One possibility is that you might see a reading of 1000 Ohms with all the windows closed. That would tell you that the old panel probably had an end-of-line resistor installed, and that would explain why the Elk doesn't like it (the M1 uses 2200 Ohm EOLs).
[edit]
Just had another thought. It's unusual for EOL resistors to be installed on doors and windows in residential installations. Did you configure the window zones on the M1 for no EOLs? That is, as zone type Normally Closed and not EOL Supervised?
You mentioned that two of four wires were tied together and that you thought that those two that were attached to each other may be a zone pair.
From your description of four wires connected to one zone on the panel I would think that you have two circuits/loops each consisting of one or more windows/doors that are connected in a series to create one zone. In this case you would take one of the two wires that are tied together and one of the wires that were attached to the panel and treat them as one wiring loop or circuit.
Mike.
From your description of four wires connected to one zone on the panel I would think that you have two circuits/loops each consisting of one or more windows/doors that are connected in a series to create one zone. In this case you would take one of the two wires that are tied together and one of the wires that were attached to the panel and treat them as one wiring loop or circuit.
Mike.
Mike I’m thinking that you are right. Is a resistor a must if one was there on the prior installation? Funny enough it’s just those 4 wires left. I thought it would be a simple thing, 1 zone 1 wire in the positive and one in the common and the same for the second zone. Something is just not working! Now it’s trying to figure it out!
Mridixon said:
A EOL resistor isn't necessary with the M1. You just need to configure the panel properly depending on whether you have EOLs or not.
The difficulty comes from different brands of panels using different values for EOLs. If the old panel didn't have EOLs, then it's easy - you just configure the M1 for no EOLs. But if the old panel did have EOLs, then they need to be removed and either replaced with the 2.2k value that the M1 uses, or they can be left out completely, with the M1 configured accordingly.
Looking back at your earlier description, it sounds like one wire from each cable was twisted together. Did that go to the NEG/Common terminal? Or was it not connected to any terminal? Where did the other wire from each cable go? To different zone inputs?
Mridixon
You should determine where each wire goes before connecting anything to the panel. First you need to get a volt-ohm meter and learn to use it. With that you should be able to learn exactly which wire is which.
A simple zone is one magnetic sensor. The sensor has two wire terminals on it. One terminal is connected to the panel + and the other to the panel common. the sensor can be normally open or normally closed. The "normal" state is the state of the sensor when a magnet is not applied to it. The sensor changes state when a magnet is moved near to it. A NO or normally open sensor has infinite ohms resistance when not near a magnet and near zero ohms when a magnet is applied to it.
A zone does not need to have only one sensor. For example you can connect several sensors in series. When they are all closed the zone would be closed and if any one of them was open then the zone would be open.
You can determine which of your four wires are connected to a sensor by using an ohm meter. I suggest that you get an ohm meter and get a window sensor and learn to use the meter to determine the state of that sensor when open and when closed. At that point you'll be better prepared to figure out what you have in your house.
Mike.
You should determine where each wire goes before connecting anything to the panel. First you need to get a volt-ohm meter and learn to use it. With that you should be able to learn exactly which wire is which.
A simple zone is one magnetic sensor. The sensor has two wire terminals on it. One terminal is connected to the panel + and the other to the panel common. the sensor can be normally open or normally closed. The "normal" state is the state of the sensor when a magnet is not applied to it. The sensor changes state when a magnet is moved near to it. A NO or normally open sensor has infinite ohms resistance when not near a magnet and near zero ohms when a magnet is applied to it.
A zone does not need to have only one sensor. For example you can connect several sensors in series. When they are all closed the zone would be closed and if any one of them was open then the zone would be open.
You can determine which of your four wires are connected to a sensor by using an ohm meter. I suggest that you get an ohm meter and get a window sensor and learn to use the meter to determine the state of that sensor when open and when closed. At that point you'll be better prepared to figure out what you have in your house.
Mike.
Long story short Mike I was working off the labeling that was left by the prior installer. You are 1000% right I should've been much more detailed with writing things out or even taking some pictures to make my life much easier. Valuable lesson learned!!!!!! Never again !!!!!!Thanks
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Get a meter and read my How to install a security system how-to on ringing out wiring
