OPII Earth Grounding and Aux Power DC Grounding

For those that saw my issue regarding my AUX powered ELK-WSV noticed my solution was to connect the OPII Ground to Altronix Ground.  This lead me to another question to make sure I have my earth grounds and DC grounds all correct.
 
Here is my equipment:
OmniProII (OPII)
Expansion Enclosure #1 (EE1)
Expansion Enclosure #2 (EE2)
Altronix OLS180 Power Supply (OLS 180)
Altronix PD16W Power Distribution (PD16W)
 
Here is how I am understanding the ground related connections for each and attempt to delineate between EARTH GROUND AND DC (-).
 
Assumptions:
1. My OPII, EE1 and EE2 are all powered via 120VAC ELK Transformer with 2 AC connection and Ground Connections.
2. My home wiring is new with ground wire at all receptacles. Home was built in 2012.
3. Both Leviton 42" metal Cans are earth grounded to a grounding block connected to my electrical panel's ground.
 
EARTH GROUND Connections to be made:
OPII "EARTH GND" Terminal ---> ELK Transformer #1 GND Terminal (from grounded receptacle)
EE1 "EARTH GND" Terminal ---> ELK Transformer #1 GND Terminal (from grounded receptacle)
EE2 "EARTH GND" Terminal ---> ELK Transformer #1 GND Terminal (from grounded receptacle)
Altronix OLS180 "G" Terminal ---> Plug ground (from grounded receptacle)
 
DC (-) Connection to be made:
OPII GND Terminal ---> EE1 GND Terminal ***(I understand this can be any of DC GND Terminals, for example Switch GND or AUX GND???)
EE1 GND Terminal ---> EE2 GND Terminal ***(I understand this can be any of DC GND Terminals, for example Switch GND or AUX GND???)
EE2 GND Terminal ---> Altronix PD16W "N" Terminal by "XFMR Input"
 
Questions:
1. Do Cans need connected directly to earth ground or the fact that all tie to same grounding block at breaker panel sufficient?
2. I DO NOT cross connect the EARTH GROUNDS to any DC Ground, correct?
3. To link DC GNDs for OPII, EE1, EE2 the switch GND, AUX GND and for that matter all other GNDs on the board are all tied together on the PCB correct?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Do not assume that Ground is the same as DC (-) because the negative side of DC could be diode/power protected while Ground should not be protected as it is the protection.  Keep everything separate.
 
DC (-) and DC Ground are two different things and some power supplies have a ground, DC (-) and DC (+) connection, which yours do not, but perhaps will make more sense in thinking about ground vs. negative power.  We commonly think of the negative side of a power supply as ground while DC (+) is always positive but that is not always the case.  Potential difference is the major concern between cans, power supplies, and peripherals.  Take a look at the documentation for the Levition Power Hub which has a connection specifically designed to negate any potential difference in panel grounds. 
 
To be sure you are not going to cook something; check for continuity between grounds and voltage between grounds using a continuity/volt meter - voltage first and if no voltage, then continuity (as continuity may create a short circuit). Meter should be designed for digital circuits.

So, now I've become confused.
 
When you say "Ground" I assume you are referring to Earth ground and referring to the first terminal in upper left of terminal strips on the OPII.  When you say DC (-) I assume you are meaning ANY of the terminals on the OPII board labeled GND.  
 
Please confirm my assumptions are correct.
 
Secondly when looking at the power hub documentation it gives me the impression that the first terminal in the upper left of the OPII (labeled by HAI as "Earth Ground" is the same as any other GND terminal on the board.  See the attached picture that shows the OPII Earth Ground being connected to the Power Hub GND terminal.  Also the specific wording of that paragraph states "Connect the “GND” terminal on the LEVITON Power Hub under the section marked “CONTROLLER”, to one of the “GND” (ground) terminals on the LEVITON controller (See – Figure 1).
 
So in my interpenetration the documentation and picture contradict themselves.
 
Can you clarify this please?
 

From the OP2 installer manual:
 
"GROUND THE CONTROLLER "EARTH GROUND" TERMINAL TO A COLD WATER PIPE OR TO A 4-FOOT GROUND ROD TO PRESERVE ITS BUILT-IN TRANSIENT PROTECTION.  USE 14 GAUGE WIRE.   TRANSIENT PROTECTION WILL NOT WORK IF THE CONTROLLER IS NOT PROPERLY GROUNDED."
 
I did not have ready access to a water pipe or ground rod, so I grounded mine to the building ground.   I know that this is not optimal because I am 50 feet from the ground.
 
I got hit by lightning and fried an expansion enclosure and two keypads-- along with about $2000 worth of other electronic gear in the house.   I am not sure a better ground would have helped.   However, I replaced all my data wiring between my house and detached garage with fiber.   No further problems.... yet.
 
Lightning protection is a confusing topic.   I have gotten conflicting advice from different "experts".    

the first terminal in the upper left of the OPII (labeled by HAI as "Earth Ground" )
 
Yes.  The very first line in the HAI Installation manual specifies to connect this "Earth Ground" first.

Here utilized the ground strap (in conduit) connected to the ingress water pipe next to the water meter.

The can(s) are grounded to the metal conduit which is grounded in the fuse panel to the same earth ground.

Cans are primary OP2, secondary expansion and a 42" Leviton media panel.
 
is the same as any other GND terminal on the board.
 
no.

rockinarmadillo said:

A) I did not have ready access to a water pipe or ground rod, so I grounded mine to the building ground.   I know that this is not optimal because I am 50 feet from the ground.
 
B )  I got hit by lightning and fried an expansion enclosure and two keypads-- along with about $2000 worth of other electronic gear in the house.   I am not sure a better ground would have helped.   
 
C) However, I replaced all my data wiring between my house and detached garage with fiber.   No further problems.... yet.
 
D) Lightning protection is a confusing topic.   I have gotten conflicting advice from different "experts".    

Click to expand...

 
A) You can substitute a cost effective lightning protector for this connection. Distance to ground adds resistance which in turn takes a charge. A lightning protector is a device that is labeled as such and can "break" a circuit to protect electronics. Some UPS battery backup units offer this type of protection on small units as well.
 
B ) Running a huge coils of copper cables around a building with rods to the roof is not always financially feasible and cost to value depends on what you are protecting.  If lightning hits a building or very close, sometimes nothing is safe. Lightning doesn't have to burn your toes off to hurt. A lightning protector may have helped but doesn't cover everything.  As an interesting note; The Empire State Building itself is a lightning rod.  There's a lot of copper there!
 
C) One should never run copper cables between buildings for networking or surveillance - the buildings become separate poles in a giant battery and are good at taking a charge from the ground -  lightning simply juices it up fast!  Fiber is an excellent solution. Good Job!!!
 
D) The only experts are those who install industrial lightning protection for a living.