Brakes and Rotors on BMW E83-E46

pete_c

Guru
Decided (been really bored some here) to change the rotors and brake pads on my BMW X3.  
 
Recently have changed the coils and plugs.    
 
Upgraded stock media with a KODI player (comes up on the HU) with bus and ODBII connectivity and VPN to call home.    
 
I have no brake sensors triggering at this time.  The discs have never been changed. 
 
Have changed the pads once a couple of years back.  
 
The OEM discs are manufactered by Zimmerman and a tad expensive so going with Brembo discs and pads.  
 
An all OEM BMW brake kit goes for around $700 and the Brembo Brake kit was purchased for around $400.  
 
Will outline the step by step here.  It is really a plug and play installation.  
 
Hardware purchased:  
1 - Brembo Brake kit with Brembo pads and discs.
2 - new shop light - extra bright 50 watt LED - blinding
3 - brake grease lubricant
4 - brake discs cleaner  
 
Hardware pre prep:  
1 - lubricate the pads back sides
2 - clean the new discs    
 
17th of May, 2020
 
Started this morning on left rear tire using emergency tire jack that came with vehicle and used air compressor / tools.

Ordered some stuff from Amazon and should have it by TUE or so. Hoping to complete endeavor by WED this week. It is really is pretty easy to do. Might replace the TPMS stalks while doing this for the current TPMS OEM system and use the TPMS (KODI) on the 330XI.
 
Using these DIYs on You Tube.
 
[youtube]http://youtu.be/JVUw_iD5Cto[/youtube]
 
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpRGq6g3mh0[/youtube]
 
Extras ordered (from Amazon)
 
1 - Anti seize compound
2 - floor jack
3 - wire brush and wire cleaning tools for drill
 
Steps
 
1 - put a block in front of the passenger side tire
2 - removed the tire effortlessly
3 - Looked for jack points under the SUV
4 - decided I would rather use a floor jack for this and purchased a floor jack base for lift points and a floor jack.  Went with a moderately priced one on Amazon.  If it doesn't work for me then will return it.
5 - cleaned the wheel and continued with project using the emergency jack.
6 - loosened and removed brake pad clip and removed upper and lower brake caliper bolts. Pads look OK and not showing wear. Discs have groves. Removed brake caliper and set it aside not hanging on the brake line rather put it on a stack of bricks.
7 - loosened disk bold (star bolt) and sprayed to large bolts holding the bracket for brake caliper.
8 - removed disc - sort of a PITA - no rust except for the holder a bit - cleaned with a wire brush and lubed it around the outer ring with anti seize compound.
9 - prepped pads with lubricant - lub all contact points, prepped caliper - clean contact points with a wire brush and lub.
Note it is baked on brake dust.  Purchased a cleaning tool attachment for my drill.  Will post before and after pictures.

I am impressed with the Brembo brake kit packaging.
 
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1346]

10 - installed new disc and set screw
  
 
There is an outer indentation on the discs but it is hardly worn down.  The ceramic brake pads are shiny and fine.

Lubricate all points in the picture and use brake squeal lubricant on all contact points. Mount disc and install set screw. Mount caliper holder and install two bolts holding it in place.

[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1347]
 
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1345]

A few weeks back had the tires rotated and asked service tech about an odd squeaking noise I was hearing from one of the rear tires when backing up in to the garage. He asked if I had ever changed the rotors (discs) and I said no. He said it could be related to a warped rotor.

11 - concluding this post relating to changing brake pads and discs. I just want to convey that it is not difficult and really an easy to do if you are inclined to do this sort of stuff. Just take your time and don't skip any steps.
 
 
A quick review on jacking points.  It is very important!
 
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1348]
 
Additional hardware on hand or purchased:

1 - DeWalt upright air compressor (15 gallons) - about 10 years old now which is around $400 at Depot. Initially purchased it to clear my irrigation lines every year and also purchased a kit of compressor tools.
This is optional and not really needed.

2 - 5 ton floor jack purchased on Amazon for around $100. I would call this an "el cheapo" floor jack compared to a professional one which can cost upwards of $300.

3 - 60 watt LED portable 120VAC lamp. Very bright and blinding and does not get hot. Used 500 watt halogen lamp before which got really hot. Smaller hand held battery operated LED shop lamp.
 
Note here worked on one wheel at a time slow baby steps.
 
Initially  used the emergency scissors jack under the jack point near each of the wheels and put a 8X8X 5 foot wood block in front of the diagonal  wheel.
 
I had to kick the tire to remove it which I did not like to do.
 
Jacked up SUV just about 1/2 inch from the floor to make it easier to remove and install the wheel.  
 
This is not the safe way and not ideal unless you are having to change a flat tire.
 
The safe way to do this is to use a floor jack under the center position nearest wheel you are working on.  Jack up the car to about the same level as before.
 
There are rubber pads on each of the four jacking points made for the scissors jack.  I purchased an insert for the rubber pads.
 
Once lifted up put a floor jack under the jacking point in question.  Lower the vehicle to the floor jack.
 
27th of May, 2020
 
Well still going baby steps here.  Did one wheel this weekend. Taking my time with it.  Most time consuming pieces this past weekend was loosening the bolts on the holder for the brake caliper.  Just two bolts.  Tired a breaker bar and could not losen the bolts.  Then just just a small jack on the socket wrench and soaking the bolts in WD40 and was able to get the bolts off.  Next piece was getting the rotor (disc) off.  Nothing worked.  Again soaked the center hub in WD40 then used a 5 foot piece of a 2 X 4 tapping it until it fell off.
 
I would keep doing stuff until I got too hot.  Total time was probably around 1 hour but because I did it in small steps it took 4 hours.  I wore gloves and should have worn an eye shield as I did get some dust in my eyes cleaning up the calipers and caliper holder.  
 
29th of May, 2020
 
I found another issue while doing the brakes last week.  One coil spring in the rear of the vehicle is busted.  It is a bit hard to see as it cracked on the bottom of the coil.
 
I read some place that this was a design flaw and BMW has corrected the issue with larger coil springs.  IE: the engine in the SUV is the identical one that is in the 330XI.  Found a video where the user used a crow bar to remove the old coils and replace them.  Not sure if I want to do this yet.
 
See a leaking shock there too probably because of the coil.  
 
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1357]
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1356]
 
31st of May, 2020
 
Working on last brake / rotor today.  Issues removing one carriage bolt holding the brake caliper bracket.  Stripped the nut a bit.  Soaked it with WD40 and was able to remove it. That said the bolt is a bit rounded and had to order a new one.  Installed the new rotor and leaving it for another day.
 
Pete
 
Do not attempt to pry the coil spring out with a lever. Get a repair manual and follow the proper procedure. It will probably involve putting the chassis on jack stands and then using a floor jack to lift the lower suspension arm that supports the spring compressing the spring. Then unbolt the strut and lower the jack releasing the spring compression slowly and gently..
 
Reverse the procedure to install the new spring.
 
Mike.
 
Thank you Mike.
 
Yeah watched one video where the guy used a crow bar to remove the coil.
 
The spring as pictured above is cracked right at the bottom of the coil.  It is difficult to see.  That said purchased two spring compressors and called buddy about coming over to help.  
 
Gonna go baby steps.  That said I have also called a local shop about doing this with me bringing in the Bilstein coils to get just a price to replace.
 
I know typically they like their own stuff.  This one shop has done stuff for me labor wise with my parts.
 
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1362]
 
I still have the SUV up on jacks for the left front stuff.  It was the most difficult one.  Now its been a week.  I stripped the head of one bolt removing the caliper holder and decided it would be better to replace it. I couldn't get one bolt off so soaked in in WD40.  The head was already stripped so I used a compression wrench and was able to get it off.    I am still waiting for it so today neighbor is taking me to BMW to just pick the bolts up there.  They have them in stock.  Another issue I had was removing the rotor.  Again had to soak it a bit in WD40 and bang on it with a mallet until it came loose. 
 
Bolt # 3 is the one that I stripped a bit on the top.  Mostly like it was cuz I was reaching around the back of the brakes to break it loose.  Tried a breaker bar and that did not work.  On the right passenger side I used a small jack under the wrench to loosen up the bolt.
 
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1361]
 
It's been a major learning experience as changing the pads was super easy.   Changing the coils and plugs was super easy too.  
 
Learned another thing yesterday.  I think I have a leak in the AC.  That said instead of looking for the leak just been charging the AC every 2-3 years. 
 
That would cost me $150-$200 every time.  Well and I am putting the SUV away in a couple of weeks; but it is hot here.
 
So watched some videos on the AC recharge.  Puchased the equipment needed and charged it up on the SUV.  Very cold now and good on the WAF.
 
The R134 refrigerant cost $10 and needed only about 1/3 of it to make AC cold again.  It was only cool and now its cold.
 
Either take the assembled strut assy in to have someone do it or get a proper spring commpessor. 
Using the chassis as weight to compress spring doesnt work so well as you'll pick the car up off jack stands trying to compress spring enough to loosen up.
You can imagine the potential energy in that compressed spring. It can kill if it gets away from you. 
 
Edge540 said:
Either take the assembled strut assy in to have someone do it or get a proper spring commpessor. 
Using the chassis as weight to compress spring doesnt work so well as you'll pick the car up off jack stands trying to compress spring enough to loosen up.
You can imagine the potential energy in that compressed spring. It can kill if it gets away from you. 
I had no problem using the car's weight to compress the springs with my old Chevy but spring compressors may be the way to go with struts. Get yourself a good repair manual.
 
Mike.
 
Thanks guys.  There is plenty of room around the spring to fit a couple of spring compressors.  Only thing is that I do not know if I can tighten it up easily.
 
pete_c said:
Thanks guys.  There is plenty of room around the spring to fit a couple of spring compressors.  Only thing is that I do not know if I can tighten it up easily.
No maybe not easily but a ratcheting wrench with a long extension can help and the long extension will keep your hands and body away from the spring a little.
 
Just noticed the two carriage bolts I picked up from BMW this afternoon are correct part number but black instead of silver and the heads of the carriage bolt is one size higher than the ones on the other side.  The old ones were rusted.  
 
Finished this project and moving on to another one before storing the SUV (I am now late in my personal schedule here).
 
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