Choosing door strikes

I have been reading about door strikes for my detached garage walk-in door and have a question for the group.. My interest in the electronic strike is for convenience. I currently have a button on my Elk house keypad that disarms the garage with an F key and would like it to unlock the walk-in door at the same time.
 
Does anyone know of a "fail secure" strike that has a manual override on the interior? I'd like the lock to stay secure in a power outage and still allow a person to get out in an emergency. I like the HES 8000 series but it doesn't appear to have a manual override.
 
My alternative is to use a fail safe strike and just lock the mechanical bolt lock when I am going to be away for more than a day or two but that is obviously less convenient.
 
Mike.

While I haven't installed it yet, I ordered a mag lock for my detached garage. Planning to pair with with a prox reader on the outside of the door and a motion based Request To Exit (RTE) PIR (I'd have to double check the model I ordered, I think this is it) on the inside.
 
I ordered all of this probably 8 months ago, and haven't been able to allocate the time to install any of it yet.

The physical door hardware should be unlocked on the inside at all times, which would provide your free egress requirement. If not, you need to look at the hardware first, as the strike will not have a manual override. The only way you'd have a physical manual override on a piece of locking hardware would be in the specific case of an electrified handset. Electric strikes and mortises won't have an override.
 
I would not recommend the 8000 series irregardless, even if you were to swap the hardware.
 
You're going to have a couple of issues, especially if the jamb was not prepped for an ANSI cutout and if it is wood, as most residential jambs are.
 
Fail-safe are a specific item upon themselves and would be used under very specific circumstances and are inherently less secure and don't have the longevity.
 
@ Driven, make sure you provide either a break glass or pneumatic button on the interior of the door physically breaking the power. A PIR based REX for egress is not enough, even if you believe there are multiple ways to exit the building.

DELInstallations said:

The physical door hardware should be unlocked on the inside at all times, which would provide your free egress requirement. If not, you need to look at the hardware first, as the strike will not have a manual override. The only way you'd have a physical manual override on a piece of locking hardware would be in the specific case of an electrified handset. Electric strikes and mortises won't have an override.

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What is an electrified handset? Is there a device that I can lock/unlock electronically that is unlocked on the inside at all times?
 

DELInstallations said:

I would not recommend the 8000 series irregardless, even if you were to swap the hardware.

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I thought that the 8000 series worked with standard residential hardware/handset.
 

DELInstallations said:

You're going to have a couple of issues, especially if the jamb was not prepped for an ANSI cutout and if it is wood, as most residential jambs are.

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Yes wood door jamb and wood door.
 
Maybe I am better off with a magna lock that goes open in a power fail and just lock the manual dead bolt when I will be away for a while.
 
Mike.
 

 

DELInstallations said:

Driven, make sure you provide either a break glass or pneumatic button on the interior of the door physically breaking the power. A PIR based REX for egress is not enough, even if you believe there are multiple ways to exit the building.

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Break glass as in a tool to break a window?
 
Would an F key on a keypad suffice for having a secondary method to exit along side the PIR?

Nope. You need to be able to physically break power for a maglock with no software or electronics involved, preferably the hot leg otherwise a ground loop can cause the lock to still hold even though disconnected. Power needs to be physically broken on active fire alarm and also are supposed to supply secondary means of egress. People have been killed by the improper installation of maglocks, so the casual implementation needs to address fire and life safety, even if you're not going to be inspected or audited.

Something like this:
 
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CEUQFjABahUKEwiYkq601YPIAhUJMj4KHVQWCTg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fsdcsecurity.com%2Fdocs%2F490Series_Datasheet.pdf&usg=AFQjCNGkZ4U6Pf6KtBlX-CpcjRWf_rbvEw&cad=rja

Ahh, understood.

mikefamig said:

What is an electrified handset? Is there a device that I can lock/unlock electronically that is unlocked on the inside at all times?
 
I thought that the 8000 series worked with standard residential hardware/handset.
 
Yes wood door jamb and wood door.
 
Maybe I am better off with a magna lock that goes open in a power fail and just lock the manual dead bolt when I will be away for a while.
 
Mike.
 

 

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You don't want to go with a maglock because of what needs to be addressed with them. Complicates the installation further. The issue is not power fail but fire and emergency egress, which still needs consideration even in a residence. Maglocks are great for traffic control, not for security purposes. Their saving grace is lack of moving parts and universal installation for difficult to retrofit applications.
 
An electrified handset is exactly that. You core the door (simple in residential) to an electrified hinge/power transfer on the butt side of the door. Essentially invisible. Something like a Sargent 8 line would cover a normal knob, otherwise leversets are available. There's some universal units, but Assa would have the most available (Sargent, Corbin, Yale) but there's others out there and generally you can order almost any "commercial" lockset/knob electrified relatively competitively priced in relation to a strike (except light duty strikes).
 
Judging from the post, it seems you have a big box special lock that can only be opened when the thumblatch is turned.
 
In a residential application, you're going to need to assume the door moving around and misalignment (nature of wood) and preload on the door, typically due to weatherstripping. The 8000 will not tolerate either of those. You need to consider if you're going to have something push the deadlatch back and have the bolt clear the face of the door or if you're going to be dependent on a ramp design or make a face cut for the bolt to pass through. Also something that allows for some slop or misalignment.

It was due to the above that I decided against both a strike and a maglock for my primary residence front door... and left it alone with a zwave deadbolt. It was going to be much more work than I wanted to bite off for little benefit (to me).
 
Honestly, I don't "need" a maglock on my detached garage (really more of a woodshop) but I've got the hardware and want to play [eventually].

DEL and drvnbysound - you're both leading me to believe that the effort outweighs the convenience when it comes to an automated lock in my detached building. Sure would be nice though if I could walk up to the back door of the house, hit a button and the garage both disarms and unlocks the walk-in door. It's the sort of thing that I looked forward to when I first decided to install an automation system.
 
That's OK, when I was a kid I was told that when I grew up all of the cars would fly and that the weather in Connecticut would be warm like Florida.
 
Mike.

It's doable and relatively easy, but with what you want to do, the door handle needs to be correct first. Very easy to correct that portion.
 
The next is determining if you want to make a face cut or not. If so, I'd consider something like a Trine 3000, but pay attention to any preload on the door. That would mean the strike would not release until you took the load off of it to enable the solenoid to pull the pin.
 
If you have preload with the existing lock (standard) then you need to plan for it and also consider what sort of framing you have in the wall. I'd look at a Securitron Unlatch if a face cut and handset isn't in the cards, or if you can face cut, then the Trine or an AR 7400 or CDC 20 series would be in the cards.
 
The big thing would be to install a reader at the door, assuming infrastructure exists, followed by how you want the door to behave. If the door is unlocked for an extended period, usually you're looking at either the unit heating up, so that needs to be considered, or you're looking at installing a device to drop the voltage to a hold level to help with the solenoid heating up.
 
I've installed them many times. The key is a good router, someone that can mortise a door cleanly, ample framing behind the jamb and planning. They work well and would blow the doors off any Zwave based lock any day for all but one thing: deadbolt.

DELInstallations said:

It's doable and relatively easy, but with what you want to do, the door handle needs to be correct first. Very easy to correct that portion.
 
The next is determining if you want to make a face cut or not. If so, I'd consider something like a Trine 3000, but pay attention to any preload on the door. That would mean the strike would not release until you took the load off of it to enable the solenoid to pull the pin.
 
If you have preload with the existing lock (standard) then you need to plan for it and also consider what sort of framing you have in the wall. I'd look at a Securitron Unlatch if a face cut and handset isn't in the cards, or if you can face cut, then the Trine or an AR 7400 or CDC 20 series would be in the cards.
 
The big thing would be to install a reader at the door, assuming infrastructure exists, followed by how you want the door to behave. If the door is unlocked for an extended period, usually you're looking at either the unit heating up, so that needs to be considered, or you're looking at installing a device to drop the voltage to a hold level to help with the solenoid heating up.
 
I've installed them many times. The key is a good router, someone that can mortise a door cleanly, ample framing behind the jamb and planning. They work well and would blow the doors off any Zwave based lock any day for all but one thing: deadbolt.

Click to expand...

DEL
 
Thanks you are a wealth of knowledge but you just flew way over my head in terms of what I was expecting from this job. Live and learn.

Yeah, Mike I heavily looked into the strikes for about a week or so before I decided against it. For one, we take quick trips outside all the time (e.g. walk to the mail box, to grab something out of the car, etc) and that brings up other issues with the strike... does it always auto lock right away? If so, then you always need a way to get back in (is that a prox card?). If not, then I'd have other issues - like my [now] 2-yr old son pulling the door open behind me, or if a wind gust could push the door open and the dog follow or whatever... There were just too many of those scenarios that I didn't want to have to plan for. It just wasn't the easy button I was hoping for

DEL
 
What do you mean by a face cut? Are you talking about cutting the door or the jamb?
 
Mike.

I have Liftmaster electric locks on the roll up doors in the garage. Do you guys think that it would work to bolt one of these locks to the face of my walk-in door as an external bolt lock? The first problem that I see is attaching the lock to the door securely.
 
Here's teh lock that I'm talking about:
 
http://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-Power-41A6102-Garage-Opener/dp/B002P5IL8G
 
Mike.