Recent content by phareous

I managed to get it working. I could not get the M1 to turn on output 10 via rules so I ended up wiring in an additonal relay to force power to that pin and enable the TWA (what was done here http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/15440-using-m1g-micspkr-feed-tofrom-home-automation/#entry131228)  ...

Just thought I would post the pin out for J7 since it took me awhile to gather it from various sources. I plan to use this to switch audio between the M1, ELK-124, and Homeseer.   Pin 1 is on the right looking at the board   Pin 8 - white/green - n/c Pin 7 - green - O/mic in Pin 6 - white/orange...

I know this is a really old post, but if you're still around can you answer a few questions for me, as I want to do the same thing.   It looks like you're switching on the speaker side, instead of the TWA input side, right?. It looks like the audio comes out of the ELK-124 line-level audio port...

I've been very happy with elk + homeseer

So after reviewing this thread, the only safe option is Alarm Relay? They quoted me $14 a month for M1XEP and $17 a month for Cellular. $24 a month if I wanted C1M1. While not terrible its a bit higher than I expected for DIY. My last company charged me $12 a month for cellular through criticom

What would the best place to be to connect the Altronix's negative to the M1? Does it matter? I suppose I could connect it one of the DBH's terminals? Or maybe somewhere on the M1 board itself?

I want to run one M1DBH from the M1 and a second datahub from a ELK-P212S so I can split my power usage up   The first hub is no problem. For the second one (from the P212S) I think I just need to run a cable from M1 J2 to the P212S so it is on the second leg of the bus (and remove the JP3...

Thanks that confirms what I was thinking about it being due to the hinge side. I'm going to go with the plunger one you suggested (although I've read these tend to be less reliable than the magnetic ones).   The other thoughts I had were to put the magnetic ones at the top of the door (much more...

I installed a recessed magnetic door sensor on my front door. Because it is a double door, it is located on the hinge side. It will only trigger if the door is 100% open. If the door is just half opened (still enough for someone to enter), it never triggers.   So I am wondering if the sensor is...

Actually I was wanting to use the m1kpas itself for the code entry and not use a reader (except for outside where I would use a weatherproof wiegand keypad into m1kam)

Can I use an Elk keypad like the M1KPAS to operate the strike? Or do the entry codes in M1 only work with the Wiegand readers? Because I'd like to use the M1KPAS in my garage to allow entry, and maybe use a weatherproof Wiegand for outside entry into the garage (using M1KAM)

Hmm all the charts I saw online for 12V DC seemed to suggest 18 AWG would be fine for 6 amp over short distances. I don't have any problem switching it to 14, just want to make sure I don't waste money   EDIT: I see the Altronix manual says use 14 AWG or bigger. 

So I'm thinking of buying 18 gauge ATC-type holders and then putting in a 7.5 Amp blade fuse since they don't make 6 amp ones that I saw, and the 18 gauge wire should be able to handle a ton more amps anyway (20+ amps at this distance), and all I am doing is trying to prevent it from melting.

I'm planning out a M1 Gold system and I'm trying to determine how to wire up the door strikes. I want to use Seco-Larm SD-994C which is 12V 250ma. I'm thinking I can wire it up to the M1RB but I'm not sure which wire goes where. Can anyone give me some advice? Does one wire from the strike go to...

So what would I be trying to prevent by having the inline fuse?