2GIG Panel & ELK 930/930 Combo?


New Member
In my 2-story house, I have a mech doorbell on upper floor, wired to a push switch at the front door. This circuit is powered by a typical 16V, 10 VA transformer (NuTone) in the garage.  I also have a DIY 2GIG GC3 security panel on lower floor which monitors all 1st-floor points of entry and a wireless remote panel (2GIG’s SP1 Panel) on the upper floor at the top of the stairwell. Downstairs, the 2GIG GC3 is primarily a wireless panel but has two hardwire loop zones (Zone 1 & 2 Loops) as well.  Today there is no connection between my doorbell circuit and the GC3 panel.
My problem is that I cannot hear the doorbell on the lower floor and am investigating solutions.  One solution I really like is to potentially use the speaker within the GC3 panel to “chime” on the lower floor whenever the doorbell switch is pushed  I know this forum loves ELK products, so I’d like to bounce my idea, inspired by Cocoonut’s “doorbell.jpg” solution for te ELK 930/960 combo
I would be using the ELK 930 relay/960 timer combo as a panel hardwire sensor (contact sensor) that would “chime” from the GC3 panel whenever the doorbell switch is pushed.  First, I would replicate the doorbell circuit from the diagram to incorporate the 930/960 combo (without a second doorbell switch).  Next, From the GC3’s hardwire loop Zone 1 contacts (Zone 1 & COM), I’d run a circuit to the ELK 960’s “N/C” & “COM” terminal to complete the circuit.  Within the panel, I would program the sensor to be “no response” for this hardwired “contact” sensor so an alert (the “ding-dong” chime) would be contained locally as an alert but not as a screaming alarm.  My theory is that the panel would announce a “ding-dong” on the lower floor whenever the front doorbell switch is pushed, without affecting the upper floor mech doorbell which would create it’s normal “ding-dong” sound.
Q1 – what are your thoughts on this proposed solution?
Q2 – Since I am not using an ELK security panel, do I still need that 1N4004 Diode as part of the ELK 960’s power circuit?
Q3 - To power the ELK 960, I am going to use a 12VDC-1 amp “plug-in” wall wart; is that OK?
Many thanks in advance.
IF you have the capability of providing wiring (one pair) from the doorbell's chime to the security panel, you can really simplify this by just using a door/window sensor, without the magnet, place that near the 'coil' of the chime, then run the wiring to an input on your security system.
Might be able to do that anyway with a wireless sensor - preferably one that accepts external contacts.  I believe 2gig is compatible with GE sensors?
Thx to all who have offered suggestions.
A1 - Yes, I do have capability to run a wire pair between the surviving mech doorbell and GC3 panel.
A2 - yes, 2GIG is compatible with Honeywell; lots of wireless options there
A3 - Thanks fo the 2GIG doorbell reference, but following is the bigger picture of what I am trying to achieve:
This post originated because I initially wanted to replace my front doorbell pushbutton with an Alarm.com SkyBell HD doorbell camera.  The doorbell circuit included two mechanical doorbells, one on each floor, that were powered by a 16V, 30 VAC transformer.  I originally swapped out the doorbell switch with a brand new SkyBell HD and regrettably killed (fried) the doorbell circuit in the new doorbell camera - ouch.  I later learned that the SkyBell HD is designed for a 16V, 10 VA doorbell circuit, which in my case, means a downgrade to one mech doorbell in the house.  But, that leaves me without a doorbell on one of my floors, which doesn’t meet the WAF.  So I bought a replacement alarm.com SkyBell HD and searched for ways to install it by modifying the house’s doorbell circuitry, now that I was aware of the SkyBell HD’s power restrictions.  I need a two doorbell chime solution (one per floor) that expands on the basic doorbell circuit described by Alarm.com's SkyBell.
I had originally test-benched the HomeSeer forum solution of placing a wired contact (w/reed switch) against a mech doorbell coiled striker, where the EMI from the energized striker coil would cause the seansor’s reed switch to “open” when the doorbell was depressed.  I couldn’t get it to work for me.
I found this forum and discovered the ELK 930/960 combo solution.  After the ELK relay/timer is installed, I can then program the 2GIG panel to recognize the ELK relay as a “no response” hard-wired sensor (Loop 1) where the panel would simply “chime” a simulated ding-dong sound  (not a screeching alarm) when the relay is activated by the front door doorbell switch.  With a 2GIG GC3 panel on one floor and a SP1 remote panel on the other floor, this theoretically solves my problem. Once I have a chime on each floor, I could then swap the front door pushbutton with the new replacement SkyBell HD.
So, when this project is complete, I will have a doorbell chime sound on each floor (from the 2GIG Panels), one working mech doorbell AND a working Alarm.com SkyBell HD doorbell camera.  I have no allegiance to mech doorbells except that I don’t have AC power near the existing doorbell locations so I’ve ruled out digital doorbells.