Anyone know how to trick a lamp module local sense to work with LED bulbs

[Desert_AIP]

I have a Simply Automated lamp module and want to use an LED bulb in the lamp.
The local sense works in the lamp with an incandescent bulb but not with one of the CREE A-19 LED bulbs.

Can I wire a resistor across the switch contacts to draw a load?

I found several threads showing disabling the local sense in an X-10 module, but nothing to do the opposite.

 

[ano]

It won't be as easy to enable it as it is to disable it.  The problem is that the local sense measures a voltage that varies with the current. LED bulbs, or at least one of them doesn't draw enough current to trigger it. So you'd need a resistor across the lamp, not the switch, to make it work. The problem is that resistor would need to draw much more current than the LED bulb to trigger it, and that would be a very hot resistor.  I have gotten this to work back in the X-10 lamp module days with a capacitor as opposed to a resistor.  If you put a capacitor across the load (bulb) the surge of the capacitor turning on and off (with the bulb) will be enought to make the local sense work, and a capacitor won't add much to your wattage load. The capacitor need to be one that can take 120V AC voltages, and there are AC filter cpacitors to do that.
 
Now, if you want to open the module, there are other solutions, but none is simple. It might just be easier to press the module button to turn on the light rather then "sense" it.

 

[Desert_AIP]

How about wiring a small incandescent lamp in parallel with a momentary switch.

 

[ano]

That will work above a certain wattage, maybe around 30 watts.  But that would eliminate some of the benefit of using the LED bulb.

 

[Desert_AIP]

That's why I was thinking a momentary switch in parallel with the LED.
Almost like the old scool fluorescents where you had to hold down the switch to get them started.
Hit the button the draw turns on the lamp module, release, the LED remains.
Kludgy but it should work I think.

 

[tmbrown97]

Another good use for the W800RF32 - those stick-on and keychain remotes are cheap and give you point of use control. We have them stuck on some nightstands and side tables for that reason.

 

[Desert_AIP]

Another good use for the W800RF32 - those stick-on and keychain remotes are cheap and give you point of use control. We have them stuck on some nightstands and side tables for that reason.

Excellent idea!

Thanks for that one.

 

[JimS]

Seems like a capacitor across the load as mentioned earlier would be very simple and effective (must admit it should be tested to make sure it works and possibly adjust the cap value).  Use a capacitor with a UL X rating as used in EMI filters.  X caps are safety rated for line to line applications.  A capacitor uses no power as the current is out of phase with the voltage.  My calculations show that a 0.47 uF capacitor at 120V and 60Hz would have 0.21 A of current or about equal to a 25W bulb (but the current is shifted 90 degrees compared to the bulb).  Here is a part that may be suitable:
 
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECQ-U2A474ML/P10734-ND/281397
 
With a bit more looking you could probably find one with insulated pigtail leads so it could easily be mounted in a normal electrical box or lamp base.

 

[ano]

The capacitor does work (or at least has for me with X-10 modules in the past) because it will generate current, with minimal wattage, which is what you want.  It basically fools the lamp module into thinking a bulb is on when it isn't.  I'm guessing you might need around a 1 uF cap. but that will take some testing.
 
For anyone looking to do this there are two safety issues to consider.  First, as JimS pointed out, you MUST use a capacitor rated for AC voltage, and at double the actual voltage as a good amount.  If its 120V., then a 240VAC capacitor should be good.  Second, you will need to put a resistor across the the capacitor. Something around 500 K ohm would work good.  If you don't, there would be the possibility a voltage could be stored in the capacitor and give you a shock if you touched the prongs of the plug. Put both the capacitor and resistor in parallel to the LED bulb, AFTER the switch.The whole thing shouldn't cost more than a few dollars.