I'm assuming i have to cut the leads coming out of the m1, and put new connectors on ? any other options?
Who is "they" and where do we get them?They make a nice piggyback connector. A female connects to the battery and there is a male end piggybacked on the top. A cable with two female ends finishes the job to the other battery.
Who is "they" and where do we get them?
well i have a hellroaring isolator ($$$) in my tow veicle for similar purposes, but it only isolates one way.... I can see it for my deepcycle applications optimas/trojans involved with a travel trailer, but seems like overkill on a little 8AH that goes for $20? Back to my rv world, the guidance i've seen on parallel (or series for that matter - i use both) connections is that you should use batteries of same manufacturer/type/model/age... My elk batt is a year old, so i'd probably violate that though
I am pretty sure elk states you have to do this (or similar) in the install manual for 24 hour standby in residential fire/burglar applications... ( in conjunction with amperage limits)
murphy said:My installation of a large backup-battery.
Pay attention of the "diode", because it takes away a small amount of voltage.
Therefor you will never have the full capacity added, only a part.
Think about the type of the diode.
In my case it is not a single one, but 20 parallel. That helps a little reducing the voltage drop. And they are Ge-diodes, not Si-diodes.
You must have any device, which prohibit a death of the complete powersystem when 1 battery(cell) is sick.
In my solution, the big car-battery can die whenever ...
And the small battery, direkt connected to the ELK-system is watched and regularly tested by the ELK-system.
At least I hope, this will work during long power-losses AND is a safe configuration.