Best way to terminate Xantech 2 zone


Active Member
What's the best way to terminate Xantech 2 zone connecting block (Model ZC21)IR outputs, besides plugging in emitters?

I'm using one of these to combine two IRs and only using the COMMON output.
Since the outputs are in series, the other two outputs must have a connecting block or an emitter connected to work. I'm using an LED in series with an 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistor wired into a 1.8 in. phone jack, this seem to work OK but would it better to just use the LEDs or could I just short out the zone 1 & 2 IR outputs?

I didn't realize that one worked that way (I have a 4 zone one). Emitters are cheap and easy enough, why not just plug them in and wrap in electrical tape and neatly wound? Perhaps not the best presentation but easy enough.
Paul, I think your current technique is just fine.

I'm thinking about getting one of these myslef, they're a bargain at less than $30 and open up a few possibilities with my current system, like speeding up my ocelot since it won't be seing it's own commands and making it easier to use the zone 2 features of my Yamaha receiver (which, I think, will only switch zone 2 inputs via the zone 2 miniplug on the receiver's back).

I'd have the hidden link in the living room run to the zone 1 input, and the coupler on my cable (IR from bedrooms) connected to zone 2. Then I'd run an emitter from zone 1 to the ocelot, from common to my amplified connecting block, and an IRLinc from zone 2 to the zone 2 plug on my receiver.
Thanks guys!

Mike: That's how I first had my system hooked up. But the emitters were not only ugly but were always in the way, looks so much nicer with the jacks.

John: actually I'm using two of these, one for combines my hidden link (input 1) in the 'media' room and a remote IR (input 2) return from the bedrooms via a leap-frog AV/IR distrubution system. From this the common goes to another 2 Input block, output 2 is terminated, output 1 was going to an emitter on a IR543 (IR to X10 transceiver) which I removed when I moved all my X10 commands to a touchscreen. The common of block 1 (above) goes to block two-input one and the IR out of my ocelot goes to input two of block two VIA An IR-LINC. Output one of block two goes to an emitter glued to the IR-IN window of my Ocelot*. Output two of block two is terminated. The common out of block two goes to a 10 output amplified connecting block (791-44). The Ocelot also has a SECU16IR module for IR zone control.
With this setup the Ocelot sees both the remote and local IR signals, but not its own IR output. The Amplified block sees everything.
Plus I plan to add a remote Cable Box to block one output 2, sometime in the future.

*The Ocelot's IR input jack has a 10 foot cable with an IR detector that I use for learning IRs to the Ocelot, when not in use it's covered with an aluminium foil 'shield'.

Hope this is clear to you all.
And thanks for the help! :blink:

Paul H
Paul, I have one of those Ocelot IR sensors too, actually I've had two. The first one was bad - all it did was get REALLY hot when I plugged it in (yes, I removed power from the ocelot before I plugged it in, as you're supposed to). The replacement for it worked, but not very well - I'd say it missed 3/4 of the commands I sent it and learning was even worse, took usually 10 tries for success.

Using a xantech receiver and having an emmiter glued to the Ocelot's IR input, on the other hand, results in 100% reliability. I just need to add the 2 zone block so the oceot won't be slowed down - like it currently is - trying to send and receive IR at the same time (seeing its own output).
John: I haven't had problems with my Ocelot detector, this is my second one the first just up and died on me. But learning has been above 95%. Guess I was Lucky.