Choosing a siren for the Elk M1

[jrb007]

My new house is nearing the end of construction and the time has come to install the devices at the end of each of those wires I ran a few months ago. WOOHOO!

I'm in the process of ordering my sensors and sirens. I was reviewing the Elk M1 installation manual and noticed that the Out 2 connection requires a Wheelock 34T-12 or equiv, when used in residential fire applications.

Question: Is this really something that could hold up an inspection? Have any of you actually installed a Wheelock model? I've done searching for the 34T-12 and have come up empty. I'm not sure what an equiv would be. Any guidance in this area would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

Jim

 

[Digger]

Look for a UL Listed 12 Vdc, 1 A (that is max current) Siren that states it is suitable for Fire. The output of the M1 is rated 12 Vdc, 1 A so any UL Listed 12 Vdc siren that draws 1 A or less and is suitable for Fire should be fine.

There are lots out there.

 

[Spanky]

If you require a UL installation for your inspector, then follow the M1 installation manual to the detail.

If you are not concerned with a UL installation, then you can use an eight ohm speaker at 15 watts or greater on output 2. Make sure output 2 is set to the siren mode in the Global settings.

You will have to ask the local inspector what is required. It is different everywhere. In this area all that is required is a 120VAC smoke detector at each bedroom for fire.

 

[RAL]

Looking at the specs of the Elk 150RT siren, it draws 1.2A.  Is this siren compatible with Out2 of the M1 Gold, which is spec'd at 1.0A?
To me, it appears that is not.

 

[newalarm]

Make sure you want a siren too. If you live in an urban area, your neighbors are going to kill you if you have too many false alarms. We only installed interior speakers figuring you can still hear it outside. Plus we will add an exterior strobe.

 

[tmbrown97]

I've posted before why I think that an exterior SPEAKER is better than a SIREN.  Often it's the exact same speaker, just with a Siren Driver attached.  The M1 has a siren driver built in and doesn't need the extra one - in fact it often requires you to add a resistor across the terminals to keep the supervisory voltage from driving the siren at a low constant volume (enough to still hear at all times).
 
The M1 has an internal siren driver, so if the exterior siren is going off, it'll be perfectly in sync with the internal siren (except the internal will cut off and go to voice announcements, then cut back to the siren) - this keeps the sound very consistent instead of sounding like jumbled noise.  This gets exacerbated even more if you try to run multiple sirens.  Using the internal siren driver also helps keep your current draw in range too.
 
Of course newalarm is correct - more and more common these days to not even run an exterior siren - I know many localities are now banning them.  There's no doubt you can hear my internal screamers and sirens well outside my house.

 

[newalarm]

I used to live near a business. Their alarm would go off in the middle of the night waking up the entire neighborhood. I went in and complained and the (most likely) low wage worker at the front desk who shrugged and said "what can I do about it?"
 
Needless to say, a few days later, someone took a brick to that siren and everyone had a full and restful night sleep forever after.

 

[RAL]

I was able to get an answer from ELK today.  They don't recommend using the 150RT connected to OUT2.  Suggested the1RT instead and setting OUT2 for siren mode, as Work2Play also suggested.  I hadn't considered the problems of the indoor and outdoor sirens not being in sync, so thanks for pointing that out.  Looks like that is the better way to go.
 
I live in very rural area, so disturbing the neighbors is not much of a problem. Those that are close enough to be able to hear it are all part of our neighborhood watch group,  
 
I appreciate the help.  As a newbie, I've still got a lot to learn.

 

[tmbrown97]

FYI, if you've already bought the 150RT, the process to convert it to a 1RT is just clipping/rerunning some wires inside - the 150RT is just a 1RT with a siren driver attached - you can see the siren driver inside and just bypass it to get to the speaker itself without having to buy a whole new speaker.

 

[video321]

Been there... done that

 

[RAL]

I hadn't ordered a 150RT yet, so this discussion saved me from ordering something I didn't really want or need.  But it's good to know that the 150RT could be converted, if necessary.  Right now, I'm still learning about the components I need to configure my system. Studying all the specs was what led me to wonder if the 150RT could be connected to the M1's Out2 terminals.

 

[tmbrown97]

Well in that case, good job reading and learning before you go crazy ordering!