Door Strikes

[tech-home]

I'm going to install a electronic door strike in conjunction with the M1 and a keyfob. Was wondering if anyone can recommend a particular one or ones to stay away from? Obviously would like to do as little labor as possible when cutting into the door, some seem larger then others.

Anyone here have one hooked up with the M1?

Prob buy from Worthington or Smarthome unless there is a better option.

Doing this to raise GAF comment last night "That would be so cool if we don't have to use keys"


Much Thanks

Brian

 

[Rupp]

Have you thought about what you will do if you have a power failure. Your supposed to use fail safe in a dwelling. This way if the power fails the doors unlock. The problem is if your not there and you have a power failure the doors are unlocked.

 

[smee]

Have you thought about what you will do if you have a power failure. Your supposed to use fail safe in a dwelling. This way if the power fails the doors unlock. The problem is if your not there and you have a power failure the doors are unlocked.

If you replace the strike (plate) with something, not the deadbolt itself, then the door knob/deadbolt work the same way they do in a normal door. You are opening/closing the part on the frame that the deadbolt contacts.

Something like this:
Electric Door Strike at www.smarthome.com

If the power goes out, you can't automatically unlock the door. But you can always turn the knob. In fact, your lock will always remain functional in the normal way (knob, key, etc.).

 

[electron]

how do you deal with the wiring? using a long drill bit?

 

[Rupp]

If you use the type Smee referenced you do not have to wire "through the door". Just pop the door trim and run the wire behind that.

What I want are some of these so I can lock the doors at night automatically but they are so dang expensive.

http://www.smarthome.com/5194.html

 

[tech-home]

"What I want are some of these so I can lock the doors at night automatically but they are so dang expensive. "

Exactly why I'm going with door strikes.

I'm going with Fail Secure as I can as you the old fashioned way.

My Test door is really acessable and won't be a problem. My main door will be but I'm installing contacts everywhere so this is the time.


Most of SmartHomes are 12vdc and Elk manual talks only about 24 vdc. But worthington carries it for the same price.


Brian

 

[Rupp]

But Brian if the door knob is not locked then the door will not be locked with strikes. Thats why I want the dead bolts.

 

[WayneW]

I think that if your goal is automated temporary UNlocking & easy install, then you go with door strikes.
If your goal is automated locking and can handle the trickier install, then you go with electric deadbolts.
But you would still need security sensors on the door itself, just in case.
And some of the deadbolts I have seen don't give any feedback or confirmation that they are really extended properly into the door jamb, so you might want extra sensors on the jamb itself.
All of this gets to be a pain and WAF risky on a retrofit job.

 

[tech-home]

My goal is not to add security but the "cool" factor and to just have another toy.
Mabye later I'll add a biometic scanener.
Yes I know all about these and it wouldn't make me feel any less secure.

Like most everyone here I have security measuers in place.


About the project:
Just about got all my parts planned out.

Looking around at 24v dc transformer options now.



Brian

 

[RAKY0311]

just curiosity! what reader you plan to use? these are so expensive!

 

[Rupp]

RAKY0311,
He stated he was going to use a key fob connected to his M1 system.

 

[RAKY0311]

the reader need to be 26 bit,I want to install one but a reader like this are over 100$ ,That is a easy way to tell M1 who are in the house

 

[tech-home]

The KeyFobs is something I was going to do for disarming the alarm anyway.

Then I thought about the elctronic strikes, since I use these everyday at my job.

Worthington sells the door strikes around $50.00

Keep checking eBay for readers. I'm sure you can find a few deals where contractors pull them but they work fine.

 

[Rupp]

I'm confused. What's the reader for?

 

[mhensell]

I dunno if you're still reading this thread but I'll throw in my two cents anyway.

I simply wasn't happy with the quality or extensive door jamb prep associated with the smarthome doorstrikes. I ordered two and sent them right back. I did some research and found that you get what you pay for. I ordered a Trine 3234W. Very little cutting and a solid unit. Fairfax electronics offer them for $126.00 and they're worth every penny. It was installed and operational in 20 minutes (new construction).

http://www.at-fairfax.com/DoorReleases/Tri...DoorStrikes.htm

The LC version accepts a variable voltage input of 12-24VDC. However, it requires a healthy 500mA to actuate. You can get the kit version that includes fob, power supply, rectifier, and strike. There are fail-safe and fail-secure versions to match your specific application and/or meet local codes.