Elk M1 Sensitive Relay [ELK-924]


Its been a while since my last post. I hope everyone is doing great. In my last post I had trouble interfacing with the rcs thermostat. After spending too many nights trying to get the rcs tr-16 "talk" to my M1 I gave up and sent the device back to rcs.

A week or so ago someone broke into several cars [including my car] just outside my house. We live in the darkest area of the block, so no wonder the thief choose this location. So last week I installed the outside light.

Yes, I got a book on how to do this right. Got the metal box screwed to the side of the house to make sure that the wires do not touch the wall. I think I am almost up to code on the outside, but the inside is where i think the code violation is.

Let me explain what i mean by code violation.
I decided not to make a big deal out of this light and bough an extension court, cut it and then attached the wire that goes from the outside light to it. then i used the regular wall outlet to lit the light. except that I am missing the metal/plastic box to protect the connecting wires everything seems to be fine. I will get the box tonight.

Now I found the ELK-924 relay and connected it to my elk m1. I am using output 8 to turn on/off the lights based on sunset/sunrise. It failed to turn off this morning - i wonder if anyone is having same issue. I did send the sunrise/sunset times from pc to elk last night.

anyway, here is the question. how can i place the ELK-924 so:
- Its secure
- It does not violate the code

Anyway, i appreciate any help one can offer regarding this.
Mishap, your light may be working properly by now. I have noticed on a few occasions the time had to cycle a day before changes took affect. As far as your wiring methods, I think there is room for some concern there. I am a licensed electrician and often cringe when I hear (or see) how things get wired. Codes require that the cable feeding your light must be protected from physical damage, (not exposed) & listed for the use, (extension cords are not listed for that use even though they may work). How did you hook up the 924 relay and the light switch? This may be why the light stayed on. If you turn the switch off, does the light go out? If you remove the 12v trigger voltage does the light go out? Its hard to troubleshoot from the net.

Hi. I got it to work, but i agree, there is room for concern.
I would like to see how to spilt a wire to hook ELK-924 relay.
what is did:
- I cut the electrical wire in half
- I hooked one conductor from each half to the ELK-924 relay.
- I connected the other 2 wires together using the orange wire twist.
- i conencted elk output and created rules.

What is the best way to install the ELK-924 relay? Cut both wire conductors or just one wire and get a wire extension to ELK-924 relay?

I probably do not make sense here, maybe i should draw a picture
Tke Elk-924 relay documentation says that it "Mounts in Standard 2.75" Snap Track". I asked about this track at Automated Outlet and they said they would have to look into it. I did not follow up with them to see if they came up with anything. I know it could be tracked down somewhere else but it sure would be nice if we could buy the track where we buy the relays. I wish I had followed up since I would like to have another option besides the double sided tape that apparently most people are using. It would be nice if there was a mounting track for the smaller relays as well.

My favorite is adhesive backed refrigerator magnet material. With the magnet mounted to the back of the board, you can place it anywhere in the box. If you need to stand the board off the box more, trying applying double sided tape then the refrigerator magnet to the double sided tape.
How did you get the extension cord from the outside to the inside of the building?

If you went through the wall, you have both electrical and fire code vilations that will INVALIDATE YOUR HOMEOWNERS INSURANCE!! should something go wrong.

In additon, you didn't mention wihich wire you ran through your relay. You must be sure to only switch the "switch leg" (usualy the black wire) and not the "neutral" (white) wire to avoid both a safety hazard and yet another code violation.

You also only mentioned connecting two wires togehter. Is there ground (green or bare copper) wire that you also connected. All non current carrying metal parts of the lighting circuit (including metal boxes) must be properly grounded with the equipment grounding conductor. If you did not do this you have a very serious and dangerous safety issue and one more code violation to boot.

I am not even going to get into proper wire sizing for field modifacation of light fixtures.

Electricity does lots of wonderful things, but it can KILL YOU if you take it for granted.
mishab said:
Its been a while since my last post. I hope everyone is doing great. In my last post I had trouble interfacing with the rcs thermostat. After spending too many nights trying to get the rcs tr-16 "talk" to my M1 I gave up and sent the device back to rcs.

Did you ever go back to this ? I've just purchased the TR40 thermostat and connected to the serial expander and it simply worked first go. I've got Homeseer setting the setpoints for me and its all working like a charm.

If you ever try this again, I'd be interested to see how you go

For the first time though, I sat down and read the manuals of both devices for about a week to make sure I really understood it before I started knocking holes in walls :)