Field wire termination


I'm about to wire new construction and want to have a nice way to terminate the station wire (22/4) and LV power wire (18/4) so that they can be modified in the future. What's the best way to do this?

Barrier strips such as
110 blocks such as
RJ45 patch panel

I'm familier with Data/Voice into CAT5e RJ45 patch panels, which make it a snap to re-patch.

Along those same lines, speaker wire into Banana Jacks or RCA connectors?

Suggestions and links are welcomed.

110-blocks are designed to be used with 24 ga wire. Likewise 66-blocks. You can get away with 22 ga wire for a few times, but I would think the "pickle forks" in these strips might spread/distort in the long run. Out of the question for 18-ga wire, in my opinion.

I have yet to install a security system, but I have been lurking here and other places for a while looking for ideas for my new abode. I may end up using 24 ga Cat-5 cables since I have many hundreds of feet laying around. Then I'd terminate on 110-blocks near the alarm cabinet. Undecided on how to handle larger wires I'll use to power the cameras.
For power distribution either works, but I would probably go with the more standard barrier strip since people will associate that with power distribution. Although I like the euro style distribution blocks since they are a little smaller and cleaner looking.

Other contact should just be wired directly to the hardware - like alarm contacts, motion detectors, smokes, etc. That is all wire that should not be changed (maybe ever, but certainly not with any regularity) and adding a plug strip or block is just another place for something to go wrong IMHO.

Speaker wire gets run directly to the equipment in my closet - again no need for the added expense and hassle of a distribution block IMHO (but a euro block would work great for that too).

RG-6 cables do get terminated into a RG-6 distribution block (mine are from Channel Vision) since that will change over time.
I am prepping a relocation and renovation of my stuff and was going to use DIN rail terminal blocks both for station wire and power. While on the neg side it does add another point, on the pos side it allows you to terminate station wire before the rest of the cabinet, makes it easier to do wire mgmt, gives you a good test point and allows for easy changes in the can.

I had some cool stuff lined up with a vendor that I wanted to showcase, but he is being unresponsive and that particular plan won't work out.
I think my main point is to be able to terminate the wire prior to trim out, and then implement various systems as I go.

Thanks for the suggestions, looks like I'm headed in the right direction.
That's pretty much what I did. Everything is terminated in 1 dedicated can, using 66 blocks and cat5 punchdown blocks (see this picture for an example). This allows me to move components later, without having to worry about the actual wire run, I just create/adjust patch cables.

Thanks for the picture that is EXACTLY what I'm looking to do here also.

Would you mind posting the make/model for the large canisters and the 66 blocks? It looks like the 66 blocks are mounted to a wood backing which is connected to the canister, is that correct?

Very professional and elegent layout.
Those are 50" Channel Vision cans, you can get them from your favorite HA dealer, they are pretty popular (I got them from I got the 66 blocks from a buddy who is a phone guy, but my local GrayBar store sells them too, they aren't too expensive. Plenty of online resources as well.
Thanks for that reply. I had been searching with "Channel Master" canisters with no luck (doh!).
This is the one I got. I also got 2 plexi covers for each.

Thanks for the pic Dan. Very nice install!

What do you have behind the cable channels; looks like some sort of standoff? Also, are those channel vision plates that you have all of the boards mounted on? And last question :ph34r: , what are using for standoffs for the 3 Elk Serial boards, to get them stacked like that?


Curious why you used both 66 and 110 (Cat5) punchdowns for terminating the wires. Why not just use one or the other?
I used pieces of a dowel to create those standoffs. Probably not the best solution, but I was in a hurry to get it up and running. The silver looking plates are teh ELK-SWP3 plates. As for the Elk serial boards, originally, I used those brass motherboard standoffs (needed 3 to get them high enough), but Martin carries the silver ones in the picture. The silver ones are nicer, but it only allows me to mount 3 of the 4 corners because of the location of some components. You can see a picture of the motherboard ones here.

More pictures of my setup can be found here:

Look for the nHome albums. Keep in mind that they are outdated, but the layout is the same.
Not sure why those blocks are so expensive on that site, they were less than $10 @ GrayBar.
Not sure why those blocks are so expensive on that site, they were less than $10 @ GrayBar.

Wow, Dan. I've bookmarked your photo album for future reference. So is the picture you linked to your main wiring area or just for your security wiring??

What are the hookups for that are shown in brother01.jpg?