Gang box for Elk KP2


Active Member
I am wondering how to flush mount an Elk KP2 keypad in new constrction with a pre-drywall gang box of some wort.

I see that the surface mount works well with a sock 2 gang box - the holes all line up nicely and whatnot.

The flush mount looks like it is intended to be mounted directly to the drywall via extending the wings. In addition it has a nice lip which covers the edge of where one has cut the drywall.

Do any of you Cocooners know of an alternate gang box which I can use to achieve a flush mounting of the KP2?

Why? I have this feeling that having a real gang box of some sort behind the wall helps to future proof the house.

My current alternative is getting out my dremel tool and cutting the flush mount longways into two pieces, drilling some holes in the side of the back half and mounting the back half to the studs? Then ( somehow ) adhering the seperate front piece from the back piece when finishing up.

I am intended on using the Elk flush mount's speaker locations for audio from the M1.
No standard trade size box wil fit the KP2 in a flush mount configuration.

Honestly, I don't see a benefit to mounting a gang box or similar prior to the sheetrock being finished in this case. If "future proofing" is the goal, I'd shy away from any flush mount devices that require a non-trade sized cutout, because once you cut, without making some sort of trim plate for a smaller device, you're going to be committed to the footprint of the existing flush mount.

In the specific case of the KP2, I would rough the wiring to the location and get it stubbed out of the sheetrock, if need be, use a small plastic LV nail-on like what Arlington makes, then cut that away after the fact when the flush mount is being installed. I wouldn't modify the flush backbox personally, not to mention deal with trying to get the spacing within the wall to match up with another box....too many variables where if it's not executed 100%, the finished product is going to show, and we're talking fractions of an inch here.
I agree with DEL... and as for future-proofing, after the investment of the M1 properly installed, it'll last you for years to come. And when the time comes, drywall is cheap and easy to repair.

The KP2's look great flush mounted - really gives a nice finished look, and gives a great location for the speakers - I have 3 around the house, plus a few more speakers for volume fill.
ah your collective wiz-dome is quite evident here.

I'll just chill out and use the stock flush mount and my clever system of fingers and tools after the drywall is up.

This is the security panel nearest the main entrance, so it'll have to look great.
Yeah, I regret keeping our KP2 for the master bedroom panel and using the KP1 in the "main" entrance area. The flush mounted KP2 looks so much better, but I wanted the extra F buttons of the KP1.

Now the only (easy) choice is to get another KP2 since Ill have a fairly large hole in my MBR wall if I pull the KP2 out. And I hate doing drywall work :)
IMO, I think the extra F keys and temp sensors (for good and bad) as well as the larger display make up for it....I also like being able to put a weigand reader internal.
IMO, I think the extra F keys and temp sensors (for good and bad) as well as the larger display make up for it....I also like being able to put a weigand reader internal.
To each his own... I personally think big wall mounted keypads are just plain ugly; I like the look of the KP2's flush mounted - has a more high-end look and fits better, especially in the places I generally mount them.
I agree that the KP's are somewhat 'big and ugly'. I used one in the garage where I wanted the integral temp sensor and liked the larger display. The keypad cover is also good in the garage. I also didn't mind mounting a separate SP12F speaker next to the KP in the garage. I will also have a KP in a basement gameroom area for many of the same reasons. But I'm installing KP2's with the SP12F's behind them in the main living area. They look so much better..... I can't envision needing an integral RFID reader or the two additional function keys. For what it's worth, I'm surface mounting them over the ~3" holes that the previous system keypads needed.
I find myself using the additional F as idiot lights a lot of times for the OHD's, with their presses being able to open/close the OHD. F1-F3 are panics and F4 is used for a general use, however in a lot of cases, I end up with a multi-partitioned system whenever I've put an M1 in, so I've tossed an arm part X on that button with the illum event being "armed".

Prox varies and isn't a constant install item, but it is more secure than an RF fob and takes a lot of the end user isses with disarming, especially with older clients or children. I prefer to use a prox to fire a strike and then automation events, but not always the install criteria.

KP2's are OK until you try to align them with existing devices, like inline with a electrical box or T-stat...can't change where framing or cabling is.