I think I am Going to Go With ZWAVE

[Mike P]

Hi, I have been watching and reading about the different technologies out there. After much thought, I think ZWave is the way I want to go with my new system. I have an Elk-M1 and about a 6000 sq ft home, does anybody think that ZWave will have a problem with this? I am not sure of what manf. to use, Leviton? I was looking at the following, Not sure what switches I should use. Has anybody used these? If you have would you recommend.



The Vizia-RF Scene Capable Switches fit in standard wallboxes and replace regular switches and dimmers (where a neutral is present) to provide manual local and remote ON/OFF switching for incandescent, fluorescent and magnetic low-voltage lighting loads such as chandeliers and multiple high-hats. It also responds to commands sent from Leviton Vizia-RF Controllers or other Z-Wave compatible controllers and programmers.
View Product Details
$131.95

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Leviton Z-Wave Vizia RF 1000W Incandescent Scene Capable Dimmer - RZI10-1LX
The Vizia-RF Scene Capable Switches fit in standard wallboxes and replace regular switches and dimmers (where a neutral is present) to provide manual local and remote ON/OFF switching for incandescent, fluorescent and magnetic low-voltage lighting loads such as chandeliers and multiple high-hats. It also responds to commands sent from Leviton Vizia-RF Controllers or other Z-Wave compatible controllers and programmers.
View Product Details
$81.95

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Leviton Z-Wave Vizia RF 600W Incandescent Scene Capable Dimmer - RZI06-1LX
The Vizia-RF Scene Capable Switches fit in standard wallboxes and replace regular switches and dimmers (where a neutral is present) to provide manual local and remote ON/OFF switching for incandescent, fluorescent and magnetic low-voltage lighting loads such as chandeliers and multiple high-hats. It also responds to commands sent from Leviton Vizia-RF Controllers or other Z-Wave compatible controllers and programmers.
View Product Details
$69.95

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Leviton Z-Wave Vizia RF 1-Zone Dimming Controller/Matching Dimming Remote - RZCZ1-1LX
Vizia-RF™ wall mounted controllers deliver the best user experience and hands-on functionality of any wireless home control system. Using a reliable wireless standard, each controller includes Leviton Pro Level technology to deliver super performance and advances 2-Way benefits. A huge step beyond consumer level products, the Pro Level features found in Vizia-RF deliver the best-in-class performance for the best user experience.
View Product Details
$59.95

 

[politics123]

Z-Wave is a wireless mesh network technology, so if you have enough of them, they will route effectively over very large distances. Plan your layout accordingly (eg: make sure that there aren't single-point-of-failure locations that are in the middle of the topography.

I've been playing around with zwave for about a month, including intermatic, ACT, and leviton products. The leviton products are by far the easiest to install. They don't require a neutral, and they have push in connectors. Not requiring a neutral means that you don't have to pull apart the neutral bundle found in the back of the switch box. They also have a small radiating plate, which means they fit easier in the box. I'm very impressed.

The knock on z-wave and ELK compatability is that its poor, and slow. ELK is planning to eventually support a leviton adapter through the 485 hub (using the thermostat/lighting controllers) or so says the rumor. I'm holding off buying the ELK zwave adapter until they come out with the leviton adapter.

 

[KenM]

I've been playing around with zwave for about a month, including intermatic, ACT, and leviton products. The leviton products are by far the easiest to install. They don't require a neutral, and they have push in connectors. Not requiring a neutral means that you don't have to pull apart the neutral bundle found in the back of the switch box. They also have a small radiating plate, which means they fit easier in the box. I'm very impressed.

Just as a FYI,

The Vizia-RF Leviton dimmers do not require a neutral connection, the relays (wall unit) that I have require a neutral.

I do love the push in terminals on the Leviton devices that I have. That method eliminates the worry about needing to stuff all of the wire and wire nuts back into an already crowded wall box. Installation was much less painful than some of the other devices I have used.

Back to your original question ...

I am using two RZCS4-1LX scene controllers, I only have two of the RZS15-1LX on/off switches. I do have eight of the RZ106-1LX dimmers. I am using HomeSeer2 to configure my devices so I do not have the Leviton remote.

I came from X-10/INSTEON. Leviton Z-Wave, for me, has proven to be very reliable both in the protocol and in the mechanical part. I have about one year experience with Z-Wave and Leviton. Z-Wave works, in my case, more reliable than INSTEON (my kitchen CFLs cannot kill Z-Wave but killed INSTEON communications).

Just be aware that the RZCS4-1LX type of controllers do not control a load, so, if you are just replacing a single switch, this might be a problem. These things work well if you have a two-way switch that you are replacing, or, if you are adding extra boxes.

Ken

 

[Mike P]

The knock on z-wave and ELK compatability is that its poor, and slow. ELK is planning to eventually support a leviton adapter through the 485 hub (using the thermostat/lighting controllers) or so says the rumor. I'm holding off buying the ELK zwave adapter until they come out with the leviton adapter.

Does anybody know when this adapter will be on the market?


Mike

 

[RonX]

The knock on z-wave and ELK compatability is that its poor, and slow. ELK is planning to eventually support a leviton adapter through the 485 hub (using the thermostat/lighting controllers) or so says the rumor. I'm holding off buying the ELK zwave adapter until they come out with the leviton adapter.

Does anybody know when this adapter will be on the market?


Mike

I think automatedoutlet is already selling it http://www.automatedoutlet.com/product.php...=299&page=2

 

[Mike P]

The knock on z-wave and ELK compatability is that its poor, and slow. ELK is planning to eventually support a leviton adapter through the 485 hub (using the thermostat/lighting controllers) or so says the rumor. I'm holding off buying the ELK zwave adapter until they come out with the leviton adapter.

Does anybody know when this adapter will be on the market?


Mike

I think automatedoutlet is already selling it http://www.automatedoutlet.com/product.php...=299&page=2

I this item for an ELK?

 

[RonX]

The knock on z-wave and ELK compatability is that its poor, and slow. ELK is planning to eventually support a leviton adapter through the 485 hub (using the thermostat/lighting controllers) or so says the rumor. I'm holding off buying the ELK zwave adapter until they come out with the leviton adapter.

Does anybody know when this adapter will be on the market?


Mike

I think automatedoutlet is already selling it http://www.automatedoutlet.com/product.php...=299&page=2

I this item for an ELK?

No, it's a general purpose rs-232 z-wave adapter. I misunderstood your post, and you were asking for a ELK adapter for the Leviton adapter right? I don't know if ELK is planning to release something like that.

 

[Spanky]

The part that is not finished on interfacing the Leviton RS-232 to Zwave secondary controller is the PC software to make it easy to program into the M1.

 

[Mike P]

Spanky,

Do you have an aprox. time when Elk will be coming out with it and the software? I have spent quite a bit of time deciding what technology to go with, Another month or two won't kill me. But if anybody thinks one of the other technologies are better, Please let me know. I can go any route, If needed, Wires can be pulled to each switch.

Thanks for the help,

Mike

 

[DeLicious]

If needed, Wires can be pulled to each switch.

That changes things completely... Technologies such as Z-wave, UPB, and Insteon should only be used for retrofits. If you are able to pull wires to each switch location, I don't think a single person on this board will suggest you use any of those three technologies instead of hardwire.

 

[Steve]

True, hardwire will ALWAYS be the most reliable. Unfortunately Mike, there is no 'best'. It really is a personal decision and each technology has its pros and cons. I am personally not a fan of wireless, but that does not mean it does not work reliably or it is not the right choice for you or others. I like UPB out of all the options but in no way would I try to talk you out of Zwave if that is the technology you like.

 

[hucker]

If needed, Wires can be pulled to each switch.

That changes things completely... Technologies such as Z-wave, UPB, and Insteon should only be used for retrofits. If you are able to pull wires to each switch location, I don't think a single person on this board will suggest you use any of those three technologies instead of hardwire.

I'm not sure that is true for the folks here on CT. While hardwire is 'perfect' in many ways it is more expensive and requires more copper and CAT5 than if you DIY w/UPB/ZWave/Insteon. I was looking at centralight and just couldn't make the numbers work. As I recall I had to commit to a 24 load system that was sole sourced and I think at the time required you to have in professionally installed (somebody correct me on this?). For me UPB, ZWave and insteon where the choices. Insteon had issues (that I think now might be resolved) and I found a great deal on a bunch of UPB stuff which for me broke the UPB/ZWave tie. I also won a UPB switch from Automated Outlet here on CT! My cost per load is well under $50 for the switches including 2 PIM's and a phase coupler.

 

[Squintz]

If needed, Wires can be pulled to each switch.

That changes things completely... Technologies such as Z-wave, UPB, and Insteon should only be used for retrofits. If you are able to pull wires to each switch location, I don't think a single person on this board will suggest you use any of those three technologies instead of hardwire.

I'm not sure that is true for the folks here on CT. While hardwire is 'perfect' in many ways it is more expensive and requires more copper and CAT5 than if you DIY w/UPB/ZWave/Insteon. I was looking at centralight and just couldn't make the numbers work. As I recall I had to commit to a 24 load system that was sole sourced and I think at the time required you to have in professionally installed (somebody correct me on this?). For me UPB, ZWave and insteon where the choices. Insteon had issues (that I think now might be resolved) and I found a great deal on a bunch of UPB stuff which for me broke the UPB/ZWave tie. I also won a UPB switch from Automated Outlet here on CT! My cost per load is well under $50 for the switches including 2 PIM's and a phase coupler.

I'm on the fence on that statement. I would certainly pull the wires if I was doing new construction but based on price I would probably still use wireless (Z-Wave). Z-Wave has worked well for me for many years now. So I think I would at least one CAT5e to each switch if not Two to some locations. This atleast saves you a ton of work if you decide to go wired at a later date. Plus, cable is cheap compared to the cost of a new home.

I have seen some new home installations(online) that the builders pulled a seperate 12-14awg electrical wire for each switch location. This way every lighting zone was on its own circuit. I'm not sure of the benefits of doing this but it's been done.

So I say prewire and still use wireless if you are just getting started. Then sell the wireless stuff at a discounted price and buy the wired solution when you know exactly what you want. Unless your already know what you want for sure. In that case I would just say go with a wired solution which has a open RS232 or TCP/IP protocol for software control.

 

[Mike P]

I looks like the hardwire will be quite a bit more expensive. How well does UPB work with the Elk M1?

I'll figure this out sooner or later.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[DeLicious]

UPB works very well with the M-1. The only common complaint I hear is status updates on individual devices when links are activated... that is, if a device is turned off, a link activating that device turns it on, the M-1 knows that the link is on but still thinks the device is off unless you write a rule to tell it otherwise.