Installing Security Sensors and ELK-M1G

[surdev]

Hello,

Still haven’t move in to our new house yet, but my builder is allowing me to Install the Security Sensors and to connect them to my ELK-M1G this weekend. I am starting this thread to get help and ask questions during my installation phase. I have gathered as much as I can from this forum, but there is lot more that I don’t know.

The plan for now is to install,

15 GRI 110T window sensors.

4 of Blue line quad Motion Sensor

2 Door contacts for my Front door and the door from the Garage and Door Hinge side contact for the patio door.

2 smoke/heat sensor and 2 CO Sensor.

Window contact

Installing GRI 110-T window contact seems to be straight forward, just insert the 22/2 wire to the screw on terminals and secure the contact by peeling of the protective paper on the adhesive tape, which is preinstalled on the back of the sensor.

Motion Sensor

Motion sensors will be installed in the corner of the wall at about 8’ high. Thanks to v1rtu0s1ty for posting the detail wiring technique http://www.4290greenfieldlanehome.com/motionsensor2.txt and the actual picture of the installed Motion Sensor http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showtopic=5714&st=31
My Motion sensors are going to be installed in the same way.

Smoke/Heat Sensor.

I found a picture of 4-wire motion sensor with EOL at http://alpinealarms.com/alarm_manual1-prin...oke%20Detectors. This seems to be straight forward.


Door Contacts

This is going to be tricky, 2 of the doors is wire to use 3/8†stubby reed switch. How deep should I drill in the door side?? This is a steel exterior door.

1 of the door is wired in the hinge side, so I going to use the Roller plunger contact.


Structured Security Panel

I got the 50†channel vision panel from AO, this is going to house my ELK-M1G control,
ELK-M1XIN, ELK-M1DBH,M1XSP, ADSL Filter and other later add ons.

Please let me know if you have any tip and suggestion from your experience. I’ll take lots of pictures and will post them here.

Thanks in Advance,
Suresh.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

For starters, read the "How to Install a Security System" How-To.

 

[surdev]

For starters, read the "How to Install a Security System" How-To.

Oh, i have read that multiple times.

 

[Mike]

On the smoke detectors, you may want to run more. General guidelines are one in each bedroom, one outside the doorway to bedrooms, one on each level, one near the panel (I think that covers it, the system sensor site has some guidelines as well).

The link you posted was 2-wire, but the reference later was to 4-wire. I have two wire and would go with 4 wire if I were to do it again (but I'm happy with it).

Those motion detectors look nice, too bad I have a 12 lb dog and a 30lb dog (seems to cover pets with a total weight up to 30lb).

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Here is one cool tip given to me by BSR. Check wires. I checked all my 4 wires using a meter. I stripped 2 wires on one end then twist them together. I go to the other end and measure the resistance. If it's zero, wire is good. I go to the next level by insert a 2.2k ohms. I short them again and go to the other end, I see a reading of 2.2k.

Then I install the window contact switch, screw both wires, then put the magnet beside the switch and wrap them both to hold in place, I go to the other end, measure again using meter. Nothing happens. Hmmm, I found out that sometimes, the terminal on the switch doesn't properly squeeze the wire. Unscrewed it, removed the wire, placed it back, then screwed it again. Made another reading, BAM, it shows 2.2k. So, don't stick the switch yet to the window vinyl frame.

Now, while I'm testing the connectivity, I tell my wife to remove the magnet, right after she removes it, I get a reading of 1 which means no connectivity. BAM!

Just my 2 cents!

 

[surdev]

On the smoke detectors, you may want to run more. General guidelines are one in each bedroom, one outside the doorway to bedrooms, one on each level, one near the panel (I think that covers it, the system sensor site has some guidelines as well).

Hey Thanks for pointing that out..

Our builder installed regular 110v smoke detectors in every bedroom, hall way, 1st floor. But they are not wired to be monitored. I think there is a thread talks about connecting builder installed smoke detectors to security system.

 

[surdev]

Those are some nice Tips v1rtu0s1ty !!!

Will a regular multimeter do the trick ..

 

[cliffs]

I always use the 2 resister zone termination(as described in the manual), This way the M1G will test for shorts and opens every time it scans the zones.

In a former house(professionally installed !) some of the zones were shorted and inoperative. With the single resistor termination this will not be detected. It also might be noted that the installer put all the resistors at the panel. This defeated the entire system. This same installer(from a large national company) just twisted the zone wires together and stuffed them behind the walls. Guess which ones were shorted. What good is a system that the zones cannot be tripped because they were shorted.

Cliff s

 

[Steve]

In a former house(professionally installed !) some of the zones were shorted and inoperative. With the single resistor termination this will not be detected. It also might be noted that the installer put all the resistors at the panel. This defeated the entire system.

I think the key there is where the EOLs were. If they were at the panel they are useless. The whole idea of the EOL is to have it at the far end of the run by the last contact and if that is setup right I do not see why it would not detect a short.

 

[surdev]

Very happy that my Initial Security Installation went with out any major issues!

Went to the new house yesterday at around noon and left the place at 7:00 pm EST. In that 7 hrs,
•Installed ELK Panel to the 50†Channel vision structured panel.
•Installed ELK-KP1, ELK 73 in the first floor.
•Installed GRI 110T sensor to all the windows (9) in the first floor.

Initially I just connected KP1, ELK-73 and 1 GRI 110T to the Control, to test the system. Booting up the control, speaker announced “Keypad Module 1 missingâ€, I thought I connected the wrong Cat5e wire, but later found out the Elk Dry B connector I used to connect Cat5e to the KP1 wiring didn’t do the job properly. So I did the old school connections and everything was fine after that.

Some pics of the install.

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[v1rtu0s1ty]

I envy your enclosure. I should get that one too! I should also put the stud frames soon so I can install everything properly. Right now, all wires in the basement are everywhere. but I do have labels

EDIT: where did you buy those color grey grommets? I like em

 

[surdev]

EDIT: where did you buy those color grey grommets? I like em

It is Carlon's 1-1/4" conduict connector from Home Depot

 

[surdev]

Iam BACK!

Finally we moved in to our house about a month ago, man I hate moving. Didn't realize we got so much stuff. When we sold our previous home in August, we stored all the furntiure and all the major items in the POD, and moved to an apartment with minimal stuffs. But the minimal stuff was not acutally minimal. :blink:

Well finally we got settled down, didn't get to finishing up sensors install till last week. At this point I have finished installing all of the window sensors, door sensors, motion, smoke detectors. When I pulled the wire for CO, I mistakenly pulled 22/2 instead of 22/4, so it is time to fish some wires.

Yesterday, I finally connect the ELK-M1 to telephone line. I purchased Channel Vision whole house ADSL filter, which comes with a RJ-31X port for security system. I simple plugged in the RJ45 cable came with the M1 in the RJ31x port in DSL filter and connected the other end of the cable Gray,brown,red and green to M1. Here are my questions regarding the connection,

1. When an alarm is tripped, will it seize the Telephone in the house for communication. The telco seize and communication LED was ON at that time.

2. How long the phone line will be seized for.

3. How do i cancel the communication. To test i asked M1 to dial my cell phone incase of alarm and it kept calling my cell phone and would not disconnect.

4. Keypad displays the Fail to communicate message and Phone fault message, how do i reset those messages.

5. What is the easy way to test the dialer in M1 and receive the information with out the monitoring company in place.

Sorry for all these questions.

Thanks,
Suresh.

 

[Steve]

5. What is the easy way to test the dialer in M1 and receive the information with out the monitoring company in place.

I'm thinking the easiest/best thing is to sign up for a free account at NextAlarm. When everything works as you expect, just upgrade your account to what you want.

As for the other questions, as long as the DSL filter is not in bypass, when the M1 seizes the line, phones in your house should be 'disconnected'. They will remain that way as long as the M1 has the line seized plus a few seconds.

How is your cell setup in the Telephones section? Is it setup for 5-Voice Message? What are the number of attempts? Do you have a rule to dial that number for a voice message? It's probably some sort of misconfiguration that is triggering the error. I don't know of a way to stop communication short of shutting the M1 off, but that is drastic and there may be a better way.

 

[surdev]

I setup the cell phone with the reporting format as 1=contact id. I should have set it up to 5=voice messaging, but since I have not created any rule, iam not able to use that option. Number of attempts is set to 4, but the M1 contacted me for alteast 12 times before I switched off the controller. :blink: