Leviton Power Supply in Channel Vision Can

soonersig

Member
Has anyone put a Leviton Power Supply (47605-psa), successfully in the bottom of a channel vision Can?  Did you have to cut the bottom of the can out? I wan t to order one of these to keep the no. of outlets to a minimum, but am afraid it won't fit into my channel vision enclosure!!
 
Thanks Ben
 
While I can't say I have used on of these I'm sure some careful dremel work would allow this without looking at it in too much detail. Check the dimensions first of course.
 
My only concern is that integrating the surge and power in to one proprietary set up means you can only replace the whole unit only part fails.
 
I believe one of my cans is a ChannelVision (don't know the model).  There's a single gang outlet cut-out in the bottom.  The cut out in a Leviton can has a single gang and then a larger section for their module.  The ChannelVision can outlet is placed such that you could cut out the rest of metal to make a large enough opening.  It'd lose use of at least one of the round hole cutouts on the bottom.  

I'd think it would be better to attempt to alter the can outside of the wall, it's close quarters in there for a dremel or other saw.  And if you're going to do this why not just think seriously about switching over to a Leviton can instead?  Might be a lot less work and the rest of any modules you're using should fit.
 
This thread now has me looking to replace my original Leviton stuff (from 10 years ago) in the 42" can with the Leviton 47605-PSA
 
I like the footprint of the Leviton 47605-PSA.  That said the bottom of the Leviton can did have removable cut outs for the original power supply and you probably have to cut some stuff on the Channelvision can. 
 
Do you have a picture of the bottom of the Channelvision can? 
 
I googled some images of Channelvision cans and they appear to have cut outs for conduit on the bottom of most of their cans.
 
Leviton-47605-DP_m.jpg

Leviton-48212-DC_m-01.jpg
 
I use a Channel Vision can - I can't say for sure I'd do it again (Prefer to isolate security now), but at the time I bought it because it was the biggest can available (50") and I kinda like the plexiglass door - it's smoked and curves outward with provisions for a fan on top or bottom as well... when properly closed up, it's really nice looking.
 
The CV can's only have a single-gang cutout in the bottom so there'd be no way to just do a knockout to make that power center fit - but as mentioned above, anything can be done with a dremel.
 
In my case, I have an OnQ 20" can below the CV 50" so that's where my power strip goes.  However I'm taking a hard look at eliminating the wall warts other than the Elk's AC adapter and going to a battery w/charge controller and distribution blocks... 120V UPSs are way less efficient than just directly tying in a 12V battery which could literally last for days.
 
Leviton also makes some 12v modules and distribution blocks. The idea being it's just one 12v supply. But it would require using/making the right size and polarity 12v patch cables. I may use one. I've also been very pleased with some Anker USB chargers for various USB-powered gizmos. Enough that I may make use of one for some gear that needs 5vdc.

I've not seen any direct 12v-from-batteries setups. Not saying it isn't possible though. I wouldn't rule it out. Anyone have recommendations? I would NOT, however, use a regular lead acid battery in the house. Outgassing from the batteries is not something to play around with.
 
So how about a thread for this?
http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/26259-dc-power-ups/
 
Yeah here out grew the 42" can in a couple of years.  Its only cat5e used for telcom, network and 1-wire stuff. 
 
That said I do two power strips in it with small wall warts and a few cisco ones that are not wall warts and make use of the above mentioned. 
 
Here is the style of the removed wall warts to the cisco transformers (went with tiny ones)
 
CISCO_34-1977-03_a0_PSA18U-480C.jpg

 
Yup and here I have the HAI AC adapter at the bottom of the Leviton Can; but its adjacent to the HAI OPII can; so cabling was easy.
 
I am now too using the 12VDC from the secondary HAI panel (huge battery there) and would optimally like to move it all to batteries in the methodology you are writing about.
 
Yup here tapped into the 12VDC battery backed up HAI stuff from two HAI panels (main and sub panel).  Just for little Mw stuff though. 
 
The main HAI panel does give me battery reads and also monitors the batteries in the secondary panel.
 
I am in the process though of putting an appliance like device inside of the HAI OPII can which will provide a router function and a management GUI of sorts to the HAI panel and that device will be utilizing the HAI power supply stuff.  I have segregated the HAI network to a separate subnet along with the HAI Omnitouch IP screens today.  The IP HD cams talk the Omnitouch 5.7e screens via the firewall interface.
 
Ben,
 
Yup; here the "dremel" tool was a favorite gift from wife a few years ago.  That said it would be difficult to cut out the bottom of a can with it; unless you removed it.
 
Its not impossible though.
 
That said if you are already removing it; then it might be easier to just purchase a new can and redo you stuff (sounds easier said than done though).
 
Unrelated...to OP ...just read though that Anixter is "for sale".....
 
I have a single gang Leviton surge-protected outlet in my CV enclosure.  I used a 'power extender' so the outlet is connected to my rack UPS.
 
I use a CV power strip mounted near the bottom of the enclosure.
 
C-0702.jpg

Not a very good solution - this outlet strip wasn't designed for wall warts; fits 3.  4th outlet is the other outlet in the Leviton duplex at the bottom.
 
This is for network, not alarm.
 
The solution to the outlet strip that doesn't accommodate wall warts well is to use short extension cords.
 
A quick search turned up these 8" ones.  You can prob find shorter.
 
Coleman-Cable-6991-Power-Strip-Liberator-8-Inch-Extension-Cord-3-Pack-0.jpg
 
I am sure you could cut out the hole with a dremel tool.   However, I agree with Pete that you should pull the can before doing this.   There is too much risk of starting a fire in the wall cavity from sparks and shavings.
 
Thanks for all the responses. The CAN isn't installed yet so cutting shouldn't be a problem. I'm still accumulating all the necessary pieces. The house is new construction and hopefully will be doing the LV wiring in about 3 weeks. Pics to come
 
Ben
 
Double your pleasure.  These have a pigtail and a pass through receptacle. 
 
p7966a.jpg
 
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