Long distance wi-fi, antenna

Tessa

Member
Has anyone used something like the Ayrstone antenna to try to really push your wi-fi network signal over distance to automated devices? This antenna's claims are rather impressive ("up to half a mile away"); I still have issues with "if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is." (I might point out, when I first found this device, it was ~$1000 or so, so the $350 price doesn't make it sounds "too good to be true"; I'm guessing it got less expensive to produce. I'm concerned that whatever the price, it might not be nearly as good as it says it is.] The furthest distance from my house, on the property, will be about 850 ft. The farthest distance to any device ought to be about 300 ft; some devices will be inside outbuildings at 300' or less, but 1) it seems to claim the wi-fi should be strong enough to penetrate buildings that close, and 2) there is a receiver antenna you can put at the building if it does. Anyone ever tried something like this? Anyone ever tried *this* antenna? Is there a better one?
 
I've been involved with projects that utilized WiFi (2.4GHz and/or 5.8GHz) and were able to communicate 2-4 miles. It's definitely possible with the distances that you've provided.
 
Check out some of the products (radios and/or antennas) over at L-com (http://www.l-com.com/). They've got some great customer service as well.
 
Check out Ubiquity Networks.  (http://www.ubnt.com).
 
For $89, you can get a dish with integrated radio that will do 25km+.  And yes, they actually do it, I've used them.  Most of their stuff is available in 2.4ghz, 5.4ghz, or 900mhz (great for powering through obstructions).  The 900Mhz stuff costs a bit more though.  Most of their stuff is 300Mbps MIMO.
 
Those products the OP linked are Ubiquiti Picostation and Nanostation rebranded and with custom firmware (but the hardware is the same).   That long-range device is a single chain device so even at G speeds it's limited to MAX 65mbps, less as you get further away.
 
My go-to would be the Ubiquiti UniFi line - a UAP-Outdoor has an amazing range - I have one I've hit from 1600' away with a decent signal - I couldn't see it because of terrain in the way but I used it to do configuration changes... then a 2nd one inside the home for normal coverage, and thanks to the Unifi management software adding a 2nd radio is like 2 clicks (maybe only one actually) so setup is shockingly easy.
 
I can elabore more if you'd like - I do a ton of wifi engineering and I've used a lot of Ubiquiti products (as well as the enterprise stuff costing 10's of thousands per radio, depending on the client and need).
 
Work2Play said:
Those products the OP linked are Ubiquiti Picostation and Nanostation rebranded and with custom firmware (but the hardware is the same).   
[...]
 
My go-to would be the Ubiquiti UniFi line - a UAP-Outdoor has an amazing range - I have one I've hit from 1600' away with a decent signal - I couldn't see it because of terrain in the way but I used it to do configuration changes... then a 2nd one inside the home for normal coverage, and thanks to the Unifi management software adding a 2nd radio is like 2 clicks (maybe only one actually) so setup is shockingly easy.
That is extraordinarily useful, thank you so much. 
 
It is very spiffy that there ARE products that can reach like that.
 
I'm looking at their products page (https://store.ubnt.com/unifi.html) and it looks like they have 4 products called "Outdoor"; d'you just recommend the most expensive one, which apparently can use more frequency ranges?  They say it's "fastest", whatever that means in products that all can apparently use 802.11n.

Did you say you had another "Outdoor" one inside the house, or that you had another product from the same company?
 
D'you think it can get through fairly inexpensive outbuilding walls at 300' or so (framed and insulated, maybe stuccoed or something, tin roof), or will I probably need receivers to get into the buildings?  If I need three receivers the cat6 is probably still the cheaper option.  It'd be nice to have network for my phone on the whole place though.
 
~ ~ ~
 
Please excuse me if I am talking oddly.  I had about 4 icepicks in my skull when I woke up today.  I'm down to maybe one and a half, but it's still hard to see.
 
If I have strong wi-fi, can I control everything automated and wireless in the outbuildings directly, or do I still need some kind of sub-system (what is this CALLED?) to collect the wireless sensor data and make them into a readable wi-fi signal? 
 
Some of the things I want to use, like water valves, don't seem to come in wireless varieties, but I could probably find some kind of wireless toggle I could hook them to...if the network could talk to them.
 
I'm not making any sense.  I'm sorry.  Maybe I can leave this here and figure it out when I'm coherent and try to phrase it better. 
 
Thanks so much for the info about the rebranded stuff and the good product line.  That's great to know.  Lovely.
 
Depending on what all you're trying to do - there are plenty of options...  For starters:
 
If it were me, I'd start with a UniFi AP Outdoor - that's the base 2.4ghz model with excellent range.  They have a 5G version which is just 5Ghz - not as many things can do 5Ghz (it's way more popular in Apple products and higher end stuff, by the "default" is 2.4Ghz).  The Outdoor+ is for high density deployments or super noisy areas - there's really no good reason to ever need that in a home.   Their most expensive is their AC one - it's fastest but 802.11ac is very rare still so it'd be severely underutilized.  The Outdoor would be perfect for you I think.
 
Honestly I'd start there and see - then if you find that it doesn't have adequate signal inside remote building, tackle that separately - it really comes down to building construction and how strong the client devices are (phones, laptops, etc).  For optimal range if the main one just isn't cutting it, I'd probably put a NanoStation Loco on the outside of the building pointing back towards the primary acting as a Bridge, then I'd put another UniFi Outdoor inside the building to repeat the signal there, or even a PicoStation M2HP reflashed with the UniFi firmware.
 
With that on the outside of your house you might have decent coverage inside - if not, a well located UAP would work well, or if you know you need dual band or other things you can go to the UAP Pro.  The nice thing about this system is that the configuration is amazingly simple, with the exception being the NanoStation since it'd be acting in a different mode.  Come to think of it, you might even be fine skipping the nanostation loco and just having the other Unifi Outdoor that's inside the shop acting in "Repeater" mode - meaning as long as the two strong radios can talk to each other, the one in the shop would wirelessly repeat from the main system - might lose a little bit in speed but gain significant simplicity.
 
As far as connecting things inside the outbuilding, it depends on what... if they're wifi devices, piece of cake.  If they're ethernet but not wifi, that's still pretty easy - it's if they're on some protocol that's not ethernet compatible in some form then it takes some more creativity.
 
Sorry at first I didn't make the connection to WHO the poster is...  Not that I mean anything by that other than we know a bit more about your situation and goals already...
 
If you want to go the direction of something like an Elk and have the means to get cabling to the barn via conduit, that'll ALWAYS be your best bet - you could extend the databus over Cat5/6 out there and hook up all your sensors that way - or even do a wireless receiver out there and go with wireless if that's better than running wires.  A second one would extend your network and you could have a switch out there there and power another Access Point and anything else in the barn/workshop you might need, as well as smartphone.
 
Otherwise if it's just ethernet connectivity for phones/tablets, then most likely a single UAP Outdoor on the outside of the house just a couple hundred feet away would probably penetrate the exterior of the barn and gate house just fine.  You can also bridge to wired cameras as well.
 
Thinking as I type - they have all these new smartwatches - I wonder if any of the developers would be interested in working with you to detect patterns of what a "fall" looks like? Abrupt motion of a particular pattern followed by no movement for a period of time - I bet it's something they could work in if they were willing.  I don't know any other way to do that short of making your own system with cameras or something that watches for patterns...  There are some really smart camera analytics these days but I'm not sure how accessible they are to the public.
 
Also reading through your list of overall automation goals, I can tell you that about 80% of that is easily accomplished with some standard methods today (although many are different than your first instincts mentioned) - like detecting for vehicles, gate control and calling, monitoring "things" like doors, gates, things that are open/closed or leaks, etc - fairly easily, and there are water shutoff valves to kill the water (just turning off a washing machine only protects against one type of failure in the machine - not a burst hose, etc)... An Elk with a sub-panel in each outbuilding along with wired ethernet or fiber in conduit would let you breeze through most of this list; even things like detecting that there's been no motion for an hour during the day when the house is disarmed is easy - it's when you want to check for your phone's presence too and/or check against a google calendar, or other things - that you'll need to start getting into custom software; also I don't know a lot about the voice control options - also bridging between buildings with voice - but I know you can get most everything else pretty easily.  A normal gate call box will have sensors and triggers that can let your alarm know what's going on and call a number - which could be a sip video softphone client that rings on your phone with video; could also trigger the Alarm contact on your camera which in turn tells the camera to SMS a picture upon detection; all kinds of this stuff is already available.  Even door/window openers could be triggered via relays on the Elk.  And you can detect when things are on/off using current sensors which will also trigger a zone on an Elk, even hooked to a wireless transmitter.  Oh the possibilities are endless.  
 
Oh dear, sorry to make you think harder on this topic than you had already :) but thank you.  Yeah, see, there's 3 outbuildings, and at the very least I want video feed(s) from all of them, so I need to get into them *somehow*. 
 
My thought was sort of like this, and it's still a little incoherent (I'm back to the "crown of thorns made up of icepicks" this morning, but I can see, at least); When I search for, say, an automatable door deadbolt, I tend to first find ones that are wireless and Zwave.  So then I read about Zwave, and Zwave info talks about how it works with any wi-fi system and every device acts as a repeater, so every one you have makes the signal stronger, back to the computer device which can read and control all those signals.
 
What I couldn't quite figure out was if it could actually send signals OVER wi-fi.  And I haven't read on the other wireless protocols yet.  [There's so many, it's hard to figure out where to get started.  (I'm still looking for an automation consultant locally.)]  So what I was trying to ask was, if the hardware at the other end, in one of the outbuildings, has any wireless signal, can the *wi-fi* antenna pick it up and get it to the controller at the house? 
 
Or is it going to need a protocol-specific (say, Zwave, since I already mentioned it, or whatever else I might have) controller--a "sub-panel," you say?  Is THAT what I'm struggling to describe?--in the outbuilding that talks to the house over cable or wi-fi?  'Cause having a wi-fi access point, or wi-fi signal, out in the buildings will only help with the things that are wi-fi capable.
 
I do tend to think that running cables will be my best option; the electrician is willing to do it and it probably won't add much.  But I've gotten dire glowers and predictions that the more wires I have and the more devices are talking back and forth over them, the more risk I have for lightning to take out a whole outbuilding (or at least all the powered or automated devices in it) along with several other probably-not-problematic reasons why I ought to go with wireless instead of wires.  (EVERYthing is going to be trenched to below the freeze line--which admittedly in FL isn't that deep--so we can just lay all the wires and pipes at the same time.)
 
I suspect that in the future wireless is probably going to take over--EVENTUALLY--but for now, wireless devices are a lot more expensive, and my current experience suggests wireless may have connectivity and reliability issues.  Probably when wireless becomes ubiquitous it will be unrecognizable to today's market. 
 
So I think wired is probably the way to go with most of the things I want to do.  IT's just that I'm even more confused now, about how to handle the outbuildings, than I was before.
 
~ ~ ~
 
On side topics...Falling.  I think *maybe* with Tasker and built-in motion sensors, if I can rmem ber to carry my phone around all the time--that's a big "if"--I might be able to come up with a few "gestures" that are typical of the way I fall.  I have two problems: I pass out, usually in a fairly distinctive fall, apparently--so says The Spouse--and I trip, and geez, the tripping probably looks much the same most of the time I do it.  I can also try to teach the tablets what a "thud-shriek" sounds like (tripping, falling, and yelping).
 
Not sure what "different than your first instincts mentioned" means; using your example, the washing machine?  I figure if I have a leak detected at one of the water-using appliances, the automation system should shut off a water valve where water enters the house, and the appliance.  (Which first?  Not sure.)  But it sounds like that's sort of what you meant in the example; that shutting down an appliance only helps if the water is shut off too.  Doesn't it say so on the page?  Lemme go check.  (Yeah, it's there.)  So I'm not quite sure what you're talking about, and if you'd care to go into it more, I'd be quite interested to hear it.  (Among other things, the valves I can find are REALLY expensive and if you're talking about some kind of alternative to THAT, I'd be thrilled.)
 
Yeah.  I figure the thing that makes the most sense with water is to have a flow sensor and a valve on each pipe leading from the well-house.  Then if the flow sensor suggests there's a leak on one of those pipes, close that valve, at the well.  So I wouldn't have valves all over the place ('specially since they're damned expensive) and it'd give me more organized and centralized control.  And allow for actions like shutting off most of the pipes during freezes, and so on.
 
Except for the house, since the house will have a lot more STUFF in it.  I should also have a valve at the house.  The way I'm having appliances put in (elevated, so I can reach them), we're already building an overflow drain directly to the outside of the house from most of the ones that use water.  But even so, if there's a leak, I think it's probably better to have a valve _at_the_house_ that turns off all the incoming water, along with any affected appliances.  That's much less water on the potentially-broken side of the pipe to leak all over the house.  Or, hopefully, leak *out* of the house through the overflow drain.  But you never know.
 
I'm rambling now--sorry, do that when I can't think straight--but please do tell me where you think I'm aiming less-than-effectively and I'd love to set it up better.
 
Long posts so it's easy to go all over the place (and yes it's hard to memorize everything on a long list)... so let me try to track through some here:
  1. Trenching is definitely ideal - run the power and LV conduit separately.  If I were undertaking this endeaver, I'd look at a couple things.  First - ethernet can be wired and even have shielding to dissipate noise/static/esd - there are plenty of lightning surge arresters - I install them all the time.  But, you can also totally eliminate that by going with Fiber.  Nowadays you can order premade jumpers the length of your conduit (measured out with pull string) or there are self-termination options that are reasonable enough - or just have a pro terminate them.  Especially since the next part of your goals is Cameras, then I'd consider something like this Netgear switch (I have a few of them myself) - it has POE to power cameras and access points and SFP ports for connecting fiber in a reaonsably sized and price switch.  That would eliminate lightning issues completely over those links.

    In lieu of direct cabling, you CAN do wireless of course.  One of my clients is a 2300 acre property with different buildings grouped in different sections of the property all around (This is a large scale example) - so at the center high point of the property there's a 65' tower that has line of sight to all the other buildings - so it has 3 120-degree sector radios (Ubiquiti Rocket M5's to be exact) creating a 360-degree listening area.  Each of the buildings then has a NanoStation M5 pointing back to the tower - some just connecting to a UniFi access point, some to just an IP Camera, and some to a switch with several devices - but they all get back to the network and it supports a bunch of cameras, phones, etc.  From the tower, it goes 2Km back to the front edge of the property over some NanoBridge's because all the recording happens at the edge of the property, and that's where the ISP connection is.  There is wifi everywhere and pretty good speeds all around while supporting Wifi, Cameras, and SCADA (industrial monitoring and control).  The only expensive part of this was the labor and the tower - the equipment is cheap.  As a homeowner on a much smaller scale, you'd be talking a few hundred bucks and a couple afternoons.  The network I described has Quality of Service and the different services broken out by VLAN so it can get very complex but it's very powerful and flexible.  BUT, if you can get wire, I'd do that first anyway.

    The above takes care of your ethernet and wifi - and anyplace you have ethernet you can add a wireless access point and extend your wifi as well - that UniFi product line is the best I could recommend for a large home - it's awesome, simple, and super reliable - and even though the controller software isn't required to be running, if you want to run it 100% of the time or even just for config, it runs on Linux (and Mac/Windows) and can run on an appliance too.
     
  2. When you get to things like Deadbolts and Lighting control, you'll find that your outbuildings present a challenge.  UPB might do OK since you have a single power feed - if you used some phase couplers in all the right places, there's a good chance it'd cover your property pretty well.  UPB is only lighting though...  If UPB didn't work, you'd have to see about a software controller and running multiple Z-Wave or UPB or Insteon networks most likely and find out what's doable, or look into some of the OpenHAB (Linux based automation controller) and DMX Controller options - It think those would work over those distances with ease.  Unfortunately the main 3 retrofit solutions - z-wave/upb/insteon are geared towards smaller installation.  This is a pretty specific area so perhaps others can chime in.

    While there are some pretty simple off-the-shelf retrofit solutions for locks, again - they don't traverse the 3 buildings very well.  If you wanted rock solid reliability, you'd want to look at commercial electrified hardware - what's used in Access Control systems at high end residential and commercial settings everywhere.  Alternatively, you could research how to run 3 Z-Wave networks at the same time with a controller in each building all talking to a central server - I just don't know enough about that.  If you were running a commercial access control system, then having an Elk or HAI in the main house with sub-panels at each outbuilding would give you a place to hook those in and they'd be rock-solid and managed in one central place.

    One more thought about lighting is that you may be a good candidate for the upcoming Ube system - it is wifi based so it won't care how large your property is as long as you have adequate wifi connectivity to get all the switches online.  This product isn't quite out yet but it's on its way with a lot of people watching it very closely - it could turn out to be a great solution for you at least for the lighting aspect... if you move Access Control to a commercial solution that's Elk/HAI integrated, you can ditch any notion of Z-Wave, UPB, or Insteon - as they wouldn't matter now.
     
  3. For water, I'd put a flow sensor in the pump house and proably way to kill power to the pump - I'd also monitor the current consumed by the pump - you can tell a lot by the amount of voltage being consumed (clogged, running dry, running too long, etc); and I'd want a way to kill water at least where it enters the house - an Elk WSV is kinda the gold standard there.  Couple those shutoff capabilities with leak detection and you've got a solid solution.  Turning off the power to the appliances may help but in most cases the appliances have a way to watch for and handle a situation where water isn't running so that's not a huge deal; actually switching off these heavy powre using machines tends to require more involved like a Contactor vs normal automated outlets due to the amount of current they draw.
     
  4. With an Elk or HAI, you'd need Cat5e or better to each outbuilding.  This would extend the RS485 bus which has about a 4000' total limit - some runs have to be counted twice due to round trip, or once if it's a leg that's terminated - but doesn't sound like that's an issue as long as some basic considerations are handled.  This puts the main system in your home and sub-panels at each other building.  These sub-panels can have inputs (fire/smoke/door/window, motion sensors/etc) and outputs (relay triggers for making contacts, powering window coverings, door/window actuators, electrified lockset release/turning on buzzers/sirens/anything else that gets switched), and keypads for arm/disarm, card access readers (wiegand standard usually which means it can be a keypad, reader, biometric device, etc), and controls for electronic access control.  That takes care of most of your other requests.  I think with many things you could bridge the gaps with Wireless/Ethernet converts, or run another wire and look into a 1Wire network (I know very little about these, but they're data collection networks).  This RS485 bus does have the lightning concerns but those can be mitigated with diligence and lightning surge protectors everywhere a wire enters a building.  In lieu of this, there's a decent amount you could do with some wireless transmitter/receiver devices but I'd only do those if I just couldn't trench - if you can trench, do it right and you'll be fine.
     
Not sure I covered everything but this should send you off for some reading - I'm out of time but can respond again tonight.
 
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