My new Elk M1 Install thread

cheezit73

Member
Hi fellas!
 
This is my follow up thread to my earlier one requesting power planning assitance.  I will be using this thread to document my installation and centralize any questions and help that I will surely solicit from the collective mind here.
 
I ended up getting a great deal on eBay for an Altronix AL400ULX power supply to use with my system.
 
I have ordered and received most of the following:
 
1 M1G (Gold) Kit (Sys4) in Cardboard only (NO CAN) with
3 M1KP2
3 Back box for flush mounting M1KP2
3 16 Zone Input Expanders
1 Ethernet Port Interface
1 Wireless Receiver, 2 Antenna, Honeywell (Ademco) Xmtrs
1 Data bus hub
1 Relay Board, 8 form C, connects to M1, M1XOVR, or M1XOV
3 SP12 Speaker; Flush mount, 12W, 32 Ohm
1 ELK 44Speaker; 30W/50W
1 ELK 1RT Speaker; 30W/50W, Stainless Housing
1 Strobe Light, Blue
2 PD-9 High Current Power Distribution to 9 Devices (400mA ea)
1 4530 EX Full Data For Primary Only
1 12 Volt 8.0AH Sealed Lead Acid Battery w/F1 Terminals
Bosh ISC-BDL2-WP12G 35 x 35 Blue Line Tritech motions
2 2WT-B - Smoke Sensor, 2-Wire Photoelectric, Thermal
4 Multipurpose Adapter Plate, 3” w/plastic standoffs
1 Double Side Foam Tape; .25” thick
 
I am mounting all of this in a 42" Leviton structured enclosure.
 
My first step is going to be bench testing and watching a whole bunch of training videos and manual reading!
 
Excited to officially start setting up the foundation of my homes brains!
 

drvnbysound

Senior Member
I like the Elk SWG's [specifically] for the XEP... they can be used for other boards too, but it is harder to use them in non-Elk enclosures, just because the Elk enclosures have all the pre-drilled holes for them.
 
This is a picture of one mounted in a 42" Leviton, before anything else went in:
index.php

 
Will you be driving the SP12Fs, Elk-44, and 1RT from OUT1?
 

cheezit73

Member
drvnbysound,
 
Thanks for the picture of the XEP. I have to start playing around with the arrangement in the can and see just how I want it all to look! I still have a lot of reading and planning to do but my preliminary plan was to have the 1RT outdoors and driven by output 2. I have not really done a full wiring plan / ohm calculation for the output 1 speakers yet.
 

drvnbysound

Senior Member
Something to think about there is if you will want/need to turn certain speakers off at different times. An example may be having a small child who takes naps, and you don't want audible alerts to wake him/her. You could use a TWA to turn off particular speaker(s) during those times. The TWA is essentially a 3-zone amplifier, each of which can be independently muted. The TWA can be used in addition to the on-board outputs; maybe you know that you ALWAYS want messages in the MBR; so you could still have that wired to OUT1 and it would never be muted.
 
Food for thought...
 

cheezit73

Member
Finally making some progress today! House was prewired but they messed up a lot of the window contacts cosmetically. Builder gave me a new set and I am replacing them my self since I am picky. I debated for a long time weather or not to put in EOLR. I decided in the long run it wasn't worth it especially considering a few of the contacts around the home are very inaccessible to add them.  I didn't like that the builder just twist wrapped the contact connections so I am soldering them as I replace the contacts.
 
A question I can't find the answer to. Would it be acceptable to take my Altronix power supply, remove the board from the can and place it in the bottom of my 42" Levition can that the ELK is going in? I thought I read something that said don't do it but it would sure make it easy.
 
Thanks.
 
Depends on how lenient your AHJ's and insurer are.
 
Power supplies are UL listed as an assembly and in the case of the AL400, designed to maintain proper separation. I wouldn't do it. Just as easy to provide a couple pair from enclosure to enclosure. Not to mention thermal concerns.
 

cheezit73

Member
Ok next question.
 
I was thinking of installing my Uplink 4530ex in the top of my panel with the antenna sticking out of the top. The ELK mainboard would be right below this. As long as the cellular signal strength is acceptable is there any reason I shouldn't do this?
 
Thanks.
 
Yes.
 
Plenty of application notes regarding RF and the proximity to the M1 main board.

Usually the location of the panel and cellular receiving enough signal and reliable are mutually exclusive. Remember, RSSI must be at least 2 solid, preferably 3. Just because they state 1 is minimum acceptable, doesn't mean it'll be reliable.
 

cheezit73

Member
Thanks Del the only thing I came across so far about that was for the ELK-M1XRF2H to be about ten feet from the panel.  I tried searching and have come up empty if you wouldn't mind giving a little more advice.
 
The panel is located in an upstairs bedroom closet.  What minimum distance would you recommend mounting the uplink and the ELK-M1XRF2H from the M1? Is the attic to be avoided or acceptable?
 
My options as I see it for mounting my ELK-M1XRF2H and UPLINK 4530EX are in order of convenience to me:
 
1: In the same closet as the ELK up top near the ceiling max distance probably 4 ft.
2: In the attic above the panel closet.
3: In another closet or laundry room on the second floor 10' + away
 
That said I will do what needs to be done to optimize the installation and appreciate any input!
 
Thanks again
 

cheezit73

Member
Hi guys anyone have any recommendations on the above distance required/location questions? Just not sure the best course of action here.
 

RAL

Senior Member
I would try and keep the RF components (both the M1XRF2H and the Uplink) 10 feet from the M1, and also separated from each other.  The XRF and Uplink work on different frequencies, but it's probably best not to put them right next to each other.  There's no magic number for the distances.  The further apart things are, the less chance there is of any interference.
 
I would not place them in the attic.  Summer time heat just won't do them any good.  If you have the M1 in a second floor closet, see if you can place the XRF and Uplink in other closets, or at least at the opposite end of the same closet.
 

cheezit73

Member
Thank Ral, Ok I will plan to get them into another location away from the M1. I appreciate all the responses, I think I was confused because some of the installation pictures I have seen on the site had uplinks in a can right next to the main panel's can. Back to slowly plugging away on getting this installed. I finally settled on a layout I liked in the enclosure!
 
cheezit73 said:
Thank Ral, Ok I will plan to get them into another location away from the M1. I appreciate all the responses, I think I was confused because some of the installation pictures I have seen on the site had uplinks in a can right next to the main panel's can.
Can't fix a poor design or execution. While it may not end up affecting, say, 90% of the installs out there, putting a device that is capable of blasting out RF energy (can't find exact wattage numbers in the specs) in proximity of the main panel is generally not a good idea no matter what or who the device is. It's also capable of inducing false alarms on some circuits. I've installed plenty of ferrite chokes or opto-isolated zones in the past.
 

cheezit73

Member
Hi guys still making slow progress, not enough time to work on it lately! A few more questions:
 
#1 I connected my Altronix AL400 and tested the DC output voltage which read 13.4, I assume this is ok and within tolerance but want to double check.
 
#2 For remote location of my Uplink 4530ex would you run 22/4 for the power and supervision outputs or should I run a separate larger gauge /2 wire for the power?
 
#3 My front door has two vertical windows on either side, trying to decide on a shock sensor on each vs a single glass break in the vicinity, any options? I would be going with Ademco wireless sensors.
 
Thanks again!
 
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